Engine Running Problem

Old 12-09-02, 03:53 AM
John Hall
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troybuilt tiller/tecumseh hh60 probs

hello all, i just purchased a used troybuilt tiller , not sure if its a horse or pony model? it has a tecumseh hh60 6hp horizontal engine.

the machine had been sitting for quite some time with stale gas. the old fellas i bought it from was determined to show me that it would start so it now has stale gas all thru it. i knew it would not start like this. the machine has spark and good compression.

how should i go about cleaning this carb out? is installing a carb kit in this float bowl type carb something an adverage person can do?

the numbers i found on it are:HH60 105124J xl cast iron and then
4321D can anyone help me as to ID this unit? sincere thanks to you all. john
Old 12-09-02, 09:37 AM
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Sure. The stale gas has wiped out the needle and seat. Replace the rubber line going from the tank to the carb as it's probably all gummed up with crap.

Clear out the carburetor with carb cleaner and use a small pin to clear out hardened crap in all the ports. They must be spotless or you will have trouble.

The carburetor repair kit should come with instructions. Usually this is all it takes.

You might try contacting Troy if they are still in business on the unit, and Tecumseh (Lauson Power Products) for the motor. They both should be able to help. Most companies will.

You might ask them for the owner's manual as well---most companies will send them free of charge.
Old 12-09-02, 08:51 PM
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Hello John!

That carb is easy to rebuild. Clean it well, inspect and if necessary, replace float, needle, seat, and bowl gasket. The seat is a rubber ring pushed up into the needle port. You can use a small wood screw to screw into the seat and pull it out. Use the blunt end of a drill bit to push the new seat in. Make sure you put it in with the ridge side towards the carb body.

The toro horse is a great big tiller, I think it has 8" wheels.

The pony is smaller and has 6" wheels I believe.
Old 12-10-02, 03:44 AM
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HH60 105124J

Cast-iron block (EXCELLENT!), solid state ignition vs. points
(also...EXCELLENT!), replacement carb is 632213. By your
serial number beginning with "4", it's either a 1984 or 1994
model....probably '94 since it has solid state ignition.
Tecumseh hadn't transitioned to solid state from magneto
ignition until the mid-80's, yet the cast-iron engines have
been less and less popular because of their extra cost vs.
an aluminum block w/sleeve. If this tiller has been sitting
for a "LONG" time...buy you a carb (632213). Certainly
worth trying to clean and add a kit (part# 31840), but I
think you ultimately will replace the carb if there was ANY
fuel left in the carb for an extended period of time. Also,
I'm pretty sure the "HH" engines were used on "Horse"
models, only. An excellent engine !! Tecumseh has stopped
production of these since the mid-90's due to "lack of demand"
for the more expensive cast-iron engines, in particular, but
the H and HH engines don't meet EPA requirements, either.
There are NO SHORTBLOCKS or ENGINES available any longer
for the "HH" series of engines. To replace one "upgrades"
to an "HM" series engine in a 8HP configuration. Just some
basic info on the "HH" series engine. Best of luck with your
"NEW" tiller !!!

Old 12-15-02, 06:32 PM
John Hall
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Post update on tiller

thanks for your replies guys, i wanted to tell you all what ive done so far to the tiller. it has to be a horse as it is heavy as one anyway. was not fun getting it out of my toyota 4x4 , when i brought it home. and as we all know when you need some help there never is any to be had. anyway i got it out without destroying me or it.

had to put tube in one tire to get them to hold air. but so far all is well. changed oil in engine. and checked the diff. level. btw no dry rot on the tires

had trouble finding 31840 kit. 3 shops and 50 mile trip. but i got it. have not installed yet as i am leary of this job. im about blind and the parts are way small.

greased the throttle cable and freed it up. so im good with that part. removed the needles from carb and soaked and lightly emery clothed them. probably not good but i wanted to see if the machine might try to run.

installed new plug. it did try to run but not well, did better after a can of carb cleaner. really needs the kit installed i know. also i think the carb is not adjusted right. choke is multi position and in beginning would only run on first notch in. i tried to adjust the carb but am unsure of procedure. must be close though, it starts on pull 2 most of time even cold. but when i engage the drive it will shut off??

oh btw its painted cherry red. krylon matched the new troys pretty close. looks pretty good for a spray can paint job

oh when i got the machine home i noticed it was very greasy around fins on head. i snugged all the bolts.most all bolts needed to be snugged up.i would like to torque them (head bolts)if someone can give me info on proper sequence and ft. pounds to do it. hopefully the loose bolts caused the greasy areas?

so far i have almost 350.00 in this tiller but new ones are a whole lot more and folks say the older ones are good quality. so im happy so far. it tries to run. hopefully its something out of adjustment or just needs a keen eye to install the kit.

any link to how a person adjusts a tecumseh float type carb? thanks again to you all. sorry for the long post , ttyl john
Old 12-15-02, 11:13 PM
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The head bolts should be torqued to 200 inch pounds, Starting by torquing them to 50inch pounds, then 50 more, 50 more, and 50 more. This should be done in a particular sequence. The head is oblong, two fairly straight sides, one flat end, and a curved end. Look at the head bolt in the middle of the curve. That is the #1 bolt to torque. From there, clockwise around the head, the sequence goes:1, 5, 3, 8, 2, 6, 4, 7.

It sounds to me like the carb still is in need of a good cleaning. To adjust this carb, the air/fual mixture screw in the side of the carb should be screwed in all the way until it lightly bottoms out. Then back it out 1 1/2 to 2 turns. Then, with the engine running at full throttle, tighten the screw on the bottom of the carb until the engine just begins to slow down or die, then back it out 1/4 turn.

Hope this helps! It does sound like you have the Horse model. Tillers don't get much better than those!
Old 12-21-02, 05:20 PM
John Hall
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Question troybuilt tiller round 2

hello guys, well the big troybuilt is running some better after what i have done. or maybe i have now run enough new good gas thru it to make some differance? it will idle now after i adjusted the jets like you all told me.

but it still runs kinda rough on high speeds and will not adjust out so the kit will have be undertaken. im going to get me a magnifying light so my blind butt can install it.

i did engage the drive and tines and walked it around some today and it does fine at slower speeds. all worked well.

now the problem i spotted this day is that there was wet oil on the govenor arm and i see it also up in the fins. what else besides a loose sparkplug can cause fresh oil up high on this tecumseh cast iron 6 hp? i have not torqued the head bolts like you gave me directions for yet Cheese. hopefully that will cure this ill. if cracked head it would not run at all right?

also is there any way i can be sure the govenor is set right? thanks fellas for all your help. sincerely john hall
Old 12-21-02, 09:18 PM
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Hello: John

Need a small favor.

Your original question has been merged into this single topic.

Please use the REPLY button for all additional questions on your tiller. Doing so allows the entire subject to remain together.

Using the reply button provides for easier reading, following along and posting of replies.

Your co-operation in this matter would be greatly appreciated.

Regards & Good Luck
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Old 12-22-02, 12:20 AM
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Hi John!

If oil is actually getting on the cylinder cooling fins, then I would guess first that maybe the PCV valve boot is not pushed in place well or cracked, letting blowby get on the engine.

As for the governor...I would leave it as is until you get everything taken care of. Usually governor adjustments don't have to be made, unless someone tinkered with it in the past. Once everything else is repaired, if you still feel that there may be governor issues, then we'll help you get it straight. The reason I suggest this is once you change the governor settings, it can be a little tricky to get it all back in place again.
Old 12-22-02, 05:57 AM
John Hall
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Red face

Tom im very sorry, i will post all my tiller questions under this topic. guess for some dumb reason i thought all the different woes were new topics. really sorry man.

i am so very greatful for you guys trying to help me. the last thing i want is to make it more difficult for those trying to assist me.

so the big machine has a pcv valve just like an auto? makes sense but i really never knew that, nor have i seen such a device.

i really hope this is it (pcv valve)as for the oil leak. i plan today to properly torque the head , snug said spark plug , and search for this pcv valve boot.

thank you my friends, and once more i really apoligize for my wayward posting. sincerely john
Old 12-22-02, 05:48 PM
John Hall
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made some progress today with the tiller. the oil leak was as you said. the hose was still in the side cover but had came off the ferrel. so that is fixed

checked the oil level(with the machine level) and found it to be too high. it appears the former owner checked and filled the oil with the troybuilt sitting in its normal posture of about 10 degrees downhill. so he had too much in it like this.

torqued the head to 200 inch pounds. most all the bolts were off from 25 to 100 inch pounds. torqued with the beam and checked with the clicker.

still missing at all speeds though. not as bad at higher speeds. the machine is now usable but not exactly right. needs the full kit installed which i cant see to do
Old 12-24-02, 02:13 AM
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Good job! I'm glad we could help you get this thing running and stop it from leaking! Sometimes after a long period of running, the trash and junk in the carb works loose and gets sucked through the engine. Usually it's not this simple though, and a good cleaning and possibly a kit needs to be done. There aren't that many tiny pieces in the carb, so you might get brave and try doing it yourself. Do it on a clean work bench or table, use a white sheet on the table top to keep parts from rolling off and make them easier to see. Or get a helper (which may prove to be harder than doing the actual work, Hehe).

Have a Merry, Blessed Christmas!!!

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