lawn tractor

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  #1  
Old 01-08-03, 02:38 PM
khougi
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lawn tractor

Just thought I would tell you the verdict from the repair shop is the engine has siezed up. Don't know how that happened yet.
I had just checked the oil and added some before starting it.
Only drove it about 50yds and stopped then tried to start it again when it wouldn't crank.
They want 120 just to look and see if its warranty work or not.
Any clues
 
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  #2  
Old 01-08-03, 04:02 PM
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Hi khougi!

$120 to see if it's warranty or not? If it's warranty, then will that cover the $120 also? It should.

I can't see how they figure it might not be warranty if you made sure it was full of oil before starting it. If it is locked up, they are going to find something inside galled up that indicates being run without oil. Then they are going to tell you that it is not under warranty because of that. You'll tell them about checking it and all, but you'll probably find that they won't believe you, and insist that the warranty won't cover it. If they think it is a warranty job, then they wouldn't be charging you $120 just to check and see.

I think I would tell them to hold off, and get on the phone with the Briggs warranty dept. and find out why you are being charged for a warranty job. I'm sure they'll say that they have to check inside the engine to see if it is a warranty job or not. If it was full of clean oil, has a clean air filter, and was being used normally and still locked up, then it IS a warranty job and you may have to really stand your ground. If you're sure you had it full of oil, then don't let them tell you that its your fault.

Hopefully you won't run into this kind of trouble, but what you said sounds like a prelude to one of the many stories I have heard before about people not being able to make good on their warranties.

Let us know how it goes and if we can help!
 
  #3  
Old 01-08-03, 08:29 PM
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khougi:

Your problem may have started before you added the oil the last time. The Briggs has a splash oil system (no oil pump) so if the engine is run when the oil is low and on a grade or hill it will overheat.
When they check your engine they won't be looking at the seized rod or piston, they will be looking at the oil. If the oil has a burnt smell its normally a sign the engine has over heated causeing it to seize. If the engine oil is too clean looking it will look like the oil was added after the engine seized.
Normally if a engine is going to seize up because of improper tolerances it will do it with the first tank of gas.
LOL
 
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Old 01-08-03, 09:02 PM
TheShibzter
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Hello, I am The Shibster. I have nothing better to do with my time than mess around screwing up good forums that offer help to people. I know it is a great difference I make in the world, for the good of man, and I am proud of it.
 

Last edited by cheese; 01-09-03 at 12:03 AM.
  #5  
Old 01-09-03, 01:05 PM
Joe_F
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I reported this jokester.

It's a wonder people that do this kind of thing breed. The world can do without the gene pool pollution. LOL.
 
  #6  
Old 01-10-03, 04:41 AM
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I missed the original thread...
When you say wouldn't crank. Do you mean wouldn't start, or wouldn't even turn (even though starter was trying to turn engine)?
 
  #7  
Old 01-10-03, 05:44 AM
khougi
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tractor outcome

Well guys the shop called and evidently at some point the oil got low enough to let one of the cylinders partially score and that was enough to partially sieze up enough so the starter would not turn the engine.
Thanks for all the help.
BTW, I'm still trying to get the Troybilt tiller tines out of gear so I can start trying to make it run. Troybilt says I should be able to get it out of gear without it running but I can only lift on the handle and it stays stuck down in the gear position.
Can't even find someone that knows how to work on it.
Went 30 miles to Greenville to talk to a place that is listed on the website as a dealer and service but turns out since MTD bought out troybilt they have never even been around one yet, they just were MTD carriers so they are listed as providers. NO HELP THERE.
One place they told me about is another 50 or more miles the other direction.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks again for the other info.
 
  #8  
Old 01-12-03, 01:22 AM
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Is this a "horse" model tiller? Belt drive? If so, I'll look at the one I have out by the shop to refresh my memory on how the tines engage and disengage on these things. It's been awhile, but I have worked on a few of them. I know it's not complicated, but I just can't remember off the top of my head.
 
  #9  
Old 01-12-03, 07:47 AM
khougi
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tiller

Hi Cheese,
First thanks for being here.
Okay, the tiller has no name on it, there is a belt between two drive pully's that go from the engine drive to a gear drive, main drive is above gear pully. The only info on the tiller that is left is molded into the metal.
Garden Way TH-1019 with a Tecumsah engine HH60_105106F
Serial number 0028C.
I've attached a photo that shows the overall apperance but I'm sure its not much help.
 
  #10  
Old 01-12-03, 11:41 PM
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Garden way? Is it the same one you mentioned in another post that your father gave you? I was thinking that was a troy-bilt. I have never encountered a gardenway tiller as far as I can remember...unless maybe they owned troybilt at some point in time.

Is it a BIG 300lb tiller with long handlebars with a long rod/lever between them that you pull up for fwd, push down for rev, and another similar lever to engage or disengage tines?
 
  #11  
Old 01-13-03, 06:40 AM
khougi
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tiller

From what I've read on the Troybilt info they sent me Garden way had gone bankrupt and Troybilt must have obtained them.
Yes, its a very heavy tiller, red with rear tines and handles like you described. Did my picture not make it. I'll try to redo it on this post also.
This tiller is just like the style troybilt still sells.
 
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