Snowblower Questions

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  #1  
Old 01-24-03, 08:19 AM
Joe_F
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Good deal? Attn T-man, Cheese and other repair gurus :)

Gents:

I am going to take a look at this Ebay item in person:

2086515975 (go to ebay.com and plug in the item #).

1) I got the seller down to $200 on this unit. Good deal?
2) I believe the model # is 536.82231 on this one. That's a Murray made unit. I have an e-mail into Murray to get some information.
3) T-man--Can this engine take an electric start (120V), what it's involved in doing so? How about a headlight?
4) What Tecumseh engine model # does this use? Any idea how old it might be?

Thanks for any and all help.
 

Last edited by Joe_F; 01-24-03 at 03:52 PM.
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  #2  
Old 01-25-03, 12:15 AM
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Hi Joe!

I tried to find out what engine is on that snowblower by the # you gave me, but I can't get an engine part# from the model# for the machine for some reason. I could cross the sears # that is actually on the engine once you get it. It appears to be an H60 engine. The machine looks to be somewhere close to 20 years old...which is probably a good thing. Newer stuff is so cheap and flimsy nowadays.

The engine may be able to accept an AC starter but you may need a flywheel with a ring gear attatched if it is not so equipped. The housing may need to be cut out or changed to allow mounting of a starter also. To determine if a starter can even be installed, look at the side of the block for some flats with holes for a starter to be mounted. If the block is not cast for a starter, it won't accept one.
 
  #3  
Old 01-25-03, 03:46 PM
Joe_F
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Folks:

I bought it. . I got it for $180. (The guy was asking 289.99 on Ebay, I got him down to 200, and then I offered 175 and he took 180. ) The machine appears to be in very good shape and used maybe 50 times over the years, if that. The paint still shines on it . It had clean oil and a new spark plug in it.

Here is some more information on it:

1) Model #536.82231
2) Engine #143.556022. Serial #4310 and then it says 04915 on the shroud too. How old is it? I have crossed that to an H60. What can you tell me about it. Cheese---there are four threaded holes which appear to accomodate an electric starter.

3) It started right up and ran great. First gear won't engage, but all of the others work fine. There's an engagement rod which looks like it has to be adjusted to take up the slack on the clutch. Any ideas? Other than that, it seems to work like a champ.

The way this works is that it's engaged in gear and then you squeeze the trigger to stop the drive action.

4) I have to change the pull handle. It has a wooden T handle on it . Other than that, everything appears to be original. Even the labels on it are mint and very readable!

5) It has chrome "baby moon" hubcaps. I first thought they were a joke, but they are FACTORY original! LOL. Yes, there's a part # on it.

6) What Champion spark plug does this use? Sears.com says, "Use Allstate #60130 or equivalent" That makes me think this is OLD. Sears hasn't used the "Allstate" name in years!

7) Is there tranny oil on this thing? There are two plugs on the end by the auger. What goes in here? What are they for? Again, the machine is in nice condition for probably being over 30 years old.

Thanks for any help fellas. I appreciate whatever you can provide to get this oldster running again.
 
  #4  
Old 01-26-03, 12:24 AM
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I'm sure the j19lm will do fine in this engine. I'm not having any success determining the age of the unit though. A call to sears might get some results. Maybe this thing is too old for my books, lol. I don't have any idea how snowblower gearcases are made, or what grease goes in it or how much. You might try to locate an owner's manual or even a service manual for it.

The moon hubcaps were used on a lot of murray products about 20 or 25 years ago.

Maybe Mike or fish or someone else can help you with the clutch and first gear. I have yet to see a snowblower in S. GA, lol .
 
  #5  
Old 01-26-03, 03:53 AM
Tcumcman
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H60 Snowblower Engine

Joe,

As Cheese said, if the engine HAS a ring gear on the flywheel,
the 120V starter can easily be ADDED ( part #33328D, Lists for
$129.95). On one that old (I'd guess 1974 by the serial #), a
ring geared flywheel for a points & condenser engine is VERY
HARD to find. Most of them for H50-H70 engines were
discontinued several years ago, and have become very tough
to find anymore. A snowblower, stirrup grip handle for this
is part # 590574. Looks to be in excellent shape for its age !!

Tcumcman
 
  #6  
Old 01-26-03, 07:17 AM
Joe_F
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Thanks gents for the information. I still find it odd that a Tecumseh date code is so innacurate. Must say that with a Briggs, you can pin it down to the year. I would think it could be a 1964 not a 1974, but who knows? It looks like that era machine.

I believe in 1975 or so they were not green, they were orange and white and started with the "Eager 1" type logo.

T-man: Is this a cast iron engine? It appears to be VERY well made. I was taken aback by the condition---not a spec of rust on the whole unit. Even underneath is in nice shape. Very few scratches if any and it's pretty heavy to lift as well (took two guys).

What makes you think it's a '74 and not a '64? I'm going to have the History Factory (they hold the Sears archives and catalogs) research it and see where it appears and in what year and catalog.

I'll keep you all posted. I belive this uses J8C as the spark plug, and not J19LM, Cheese. I'll e-mail Champion and find out.

Please keep the feedback coming. I want to take good care of this oldie. It looks like it deserves it!

Here are my questions:

1) What grade/weight of motor oil is used on this and how much? It says "10W" on the label, but I'd like to know what Tecumseh would recommend. I would assume that 10W30 or 10W40 will be acceptable?
2) What is the Champion # of the spark plug if you know it? Gap?
3) As far as the gear case goes, what quantity of oil is used, the type of oil that is used and how often it should be changed?
4) Anything else about this H60 that you know of, care to comment on, or would like to share.
5) I come up with #590387 on the handle T-man....

Thanks,
 

Last edited by Joe_F; 01-26-03 at 08:35 AM.
  #7  
Old 01-26-03, 06:24 PM
Tcumcman
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Sears Snowblower

Joe,

If it were cast-iron, it would be an "HH60" and not an H60. I
guessed was a 1974 model based upon the type rewind it
has on it. That one is....OLD. Could be a 1964 ?? For winter
use, of for blowing snow, I'd use a 10W30. J19LM plug is
what I'd use. J8C will run in it fine, but more current models
of H50-H70's takes a J19LM. 590387 starter handle is OK.
The 590574 handle I suggested in a "mitten" handle for easy
grabbing onto with gloves. Many of the snowblower engines
come with this type handle grip.

Tcumcman
 
  #8  
Old 01-26-03, 06:35 PM
Joe_F
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Thumbs up

T-man:

Thank you. Yes, I will install the "D" handle as it is easy to pull with a glove on. The wooden handle on there isn't cutting it. It slips out of my hand (smarted it a few times today).

How much oil does it take (capacity)? I've got cases of 10W30, so that's no issue. I have an e-mail into Sears to see what they say it is (the History Factory will tell me what year catalog they find it in). If it's in the '65 catalog, it's safe to say it was probably made in 1964. I'll post what they find.

The only fault on it is that silly handle (which I will replace) and the lack of 1st gear. All other gears work, just first gear is out. I polished the hubcaps this afternoon and they came up nice. The machine doesn't look abused or beat up in any way I could tell. I'm hoping first gear is an easy fix, but if not, it is fine as is. Even the auger doesn't have rust or chipped paint. It is one STRONG unit. Even the drift cutters were in mint condition!

What gap on either the J19LM or the J8C do you recommend? In the Champion book they recommend .030" on a Toro with a 6 HP Tecumseh.

I will contact Murray to get more information (they made it for Sears). This is one QUALITY unit. It is very commanding. Sounds just like my other "chief" (1979 Pontiac Trans Am with a 400).

What can I say, I have a thing with engines with Indian names/origins

Also, would Tecumseh have the engine booklet on it? Part #691045. Any way to get a hold of a copy of it?

The carb # is a 630992B, the Magneto is a 610694, and the Starter is a 28319A if that helps you T-man.
 
  #9  
Old 01-27-03, 04:30 AM
Tcumcman
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H60 Snowblower Engine

Joe,

GOOD NEWS !!....The 610694 magneto DOES HAVE a ring gear
on the flywheel. So, you certainly CAN ADD the 33328D 120V
starter. It's actually set up that way so that you can do that.
A lot of snowblowers were. 19 ounces of 10W30 will FILL UP
an H60. Gap the the plug at .030.

Joe....try and "contain" yourself !! You're acting like a kid with
his FIRST new bicycle....HAVE FUN WITH IT !!!! Let me know if I
can help further with it.....

Tcumcman
 
  #10  
Old 01-27-03, 07:38 AM
Joe_F
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T-man:

Hey, when you get a good deal, what can you do? Brag about it. LOL.

That is GREAT news. It seems like it's very easy to add an electric starter. I may do that in the future as it seems like it's a direct bolt on to what I have. Great job Tecumseh!

The reason for the excitement is that I have been finding JUNK for the same price as this one or more, and 180 for this in this condition is a find. Everyone loves a good find.

For the record, I still have my 1978 Huffy 20" bike hanging in my garage (first bicycle).

I will certainly keep in touch and ask more questions as I get to them. Getting speed #1 to work is first priority after some service and maintenance.
 
  #11  
Old 01-27-03, 12:48 PM
Joe_F
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Just called up Tecumseh and got a very helpful guy named Tom there in Technical Services.

Sure enough, he found me a copy of the ORIGINAL owner's manual for this H60 engine! Part #691045 on the way which should answer all my questions .

Thanks to all and I'll keep you posted as I get into the machine and its inner workings.

If anyone has any insight as to the 1st speed issue, I'd be happy to hear from you.

Regards,
 
  #12  
Old 01-30-03, 01:10 PM
Joe_F
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Murray couldn't help with a manual or equate it to Murray equal of that vintage. Couldn't even tell me how old it was. Kinda helpless company.

Tecumseh on the other hand recognized the manual part # furnished in the Sears breakdown and promptly mailed out a copy (I should get it any day).

A couple of questions remain:

1) If anyone has or knows where I can find an owner's manual on #536.82231, please let me know. I have an e-mail into Sears, but I don't expect much help from them.

2) If anyone has an idea why 1st speed doesn't work, I'd love to hear from you. Mike, Cheese, Fish, others? .

3) Once I fix that, give it a good servicing and polish it up/wax it/clean it, this thing should run like new and look the same.

Thanks for any and all help.
 
  #13  
Old 01-31-03, 07:38 AM
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Joe

I looked this snow blower up on sears.com and it looks like it doesn't have a drive gear box, so no bad gears to replace. It has a varible speed disk so normally these can be adjusted to get all the speeds.
It looks like there are no parts availble other then standard hardware items like chains, bolts and washers.

LOL
 
  #14  
Old 01-31-03, 09:26 AM
Joe_F
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I agree with you. There's not much left in the way of "hard" parts. I guess I will have to look at the speed disc and see if I can get into how that works. All other speeds work great.

Most of the engine parts are available as they are standard Tecumseh issue type parts. Murray couldn't help, but Tecumseh could.

How do you adjust the speed disc? I get the concept. It is very similar to how a needle plays on an old time record player . Also, any idea what type of oil/fluid goes in the end by the auger area?

Murray says that the transmission is a Peerless (Tecumseh). I called them, the guy laughed and said, "Yea, Murray loves to dump those questions on us. Through my experience, you want to use 80W90 in that machine".

Sound right (for the transmission of the unit)??

Thanks,
 

Last edited by Joe_F; 01-31-03 at 01:36 PM.
  #15  
Old 02-01-03, 12:31 AM
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80-90wt sounds right, and if it's not, it shouldn't hurt a thing. If your unit has a driven disc, then what you want to do is get the driven disc as close to the outside edge of the drive disc as it will ride without any of the driven disc hanging off the edge. When it is there, the gear selector should be in the highest speed selection. If not, adjust the selector linkage. It may even be bent. Then, as you change down to 1st, the driven disc should move closer to the center of the drive disc.
 
  #16  
Old 02-01-03, 04:38 AM
Tcumcman
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Transmission ???

Going by the Sears model 536-82231, the diagram they show
at Sears' website (www3.sears.com) shows a "gearcase" assy.
but not a transmission/transaxle. It isn't Peerless. As far as
the lube something like that would take, I agree with Cheese,
probably an 80-90W or 140 (possibly) gear oil. I imagine
ANYTHING you would need for that gear case assy. would
HAVE TO COME from Sears. especially if Murray is saying NLA
on any of these items. Sears may also have made them NLA,
but you may have said that already ??? GOOD LUCK, Joe !!

Tcumcman
 
  #17  
Old 02-01-03, 05:31 AM
Joe_F
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T-man:

All Sears does is call the source (vendor) and say "drop ship your part #1234 to this address". If the source says NLA, Sears will say NLA. I do not think they stock these items---they drop ship from the vendor.

Cheese: My coworker said the exact same thing as you. He said, "Picture a tone arm on a record, say an album (now we are dating ourselves..lol). Notice how at the very end of the record, closest to the stud of the phonograph, how fast the disc moves, compared to when it's at the outer edge. However, note that it is still moving at 33 1/3 RPM all the time. In the same way, your speed disc works like that. I'm betting that on the #1 speed, your disc is not contacting the tone arm (gear selector)".

I will have a look and see .

Thanks all,
 
  #18  
Old 02-01-03, 03:39 PM
Fisher
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Sorry about keeping out of this, but snowblowers are VERY rare
around here, and you already had Tecumsehman on the
case, And the Big "CHEESE" as well.
fish
 
  #19  
Old 02-02-03, 05:42 AM
mikejmerritt
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Good morning Joe, I took a look at this machine at Sears site and the drive unit looks like an Ariens, Snapper or Noma disc drive. I didn't get a clear look at the differential but if the machine will move in some gears it should be in good condition. The drive disc is held against the fixed drive plate with a spring and moves on a shaft from near the center to the outer edge of the drive plate. There could be one of several causes of "slipping" in 1st but this type of unit is very easy to service and once operating properly is a pleasure to work with. Check the condition of the drive plate, shaft and bearing and the rubber on the drive disc as well as the drive disc shaft and bearings. You will probably find something loose somewhere causing the malfuncton in 1st gear. While your at it go for a new belt and check the condition of the idler pulley. The action of the drive disc is controlled by a rod which is probably your gear shift and as someone said the problem could be that area or rust on the disc drive shaft that prevents it from moving all the way to the middle of the drive plate. I don't have snow so am at a disadvantage on this subject but best shot in the dark is this is Ariens/Noma parts which will interchange in large part with Snapper of this era. If you do find Snapper #'s use them for best value......Mike
 
  #20  
Old 02-02-03, 04:10 PM
Joe_F
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Fellas:

I had the pan cover off and it's pretty nice in there. The only "jurry rigged" thing I saw was a bolt in the axle where a roll pin should have been. My friend and I were poking around in there and we noticed that the gears were turning and the wheels weren't. We cut the machine off and looked around. My friend said, "That bolt doesn't seem right....".

I said, "Lemme get the parts breakdown. Sure enough, item #27 on the parts list is a "1/4 x 1 3/8" roll pin". I took a ride to my local hardware store and got a 1/4" by 2" rollpin. Fit it in place and it now I have every gear but #1 again---and the motion seems better too. That bolt was not OEM equipment!

I'd bet that "fagazzi" bolt someone had there was barely locking the axle!

Then after this proper repair, all speeds work again but #1. If you put it into #1 and try to clutch it, it kinda wants to go a little. We ran it with the belly pan cover off and it does seem to turn the discs on #1, but maybe not enough for it to move.

The drive disc has a machined hole in it. My guess is that the drive disc has to be adjusted to go away from that center because it may not have enough surface area to grab and make #1 engage.

Mike: The rubber looks good on the disc, and everything looks Ok in there. I will have to look to see if in #1, the discs aren't touching enough or in the wrong place on the main disc.

Mike: I may be wrong but I believe Noma was absorbed by Murray some time ago. I have no reason to doubt you that many of the companies shared parts though. My coworker said my machine reminded him of the 6HP Ariens he had some years ago.

Would someone like to see a photo of where each gear winds up on the disc and that might help? I can take 5 pictures inside the belly of the machine to show you where each gear winds up. Maybe that will click a light off on someone . I just don't know HOW I should be adjusting the disc. In/out? Left to right? What/where to adjust? I'll do as you say and see if I can see something out of kilter that might cause first gear to be wacked out. It seems like it wants to go in first gear, but something's out of adjustment.

Mike: I still haven't fixed that blasted Mac 2.1, but I'll get it going again !!!

Thanks all, I'm getting closer. I will get a new T-handle as well this weekend coming up. I'll be away in Chicago on business from Tuesday to Thursday.
 

Last edited by Joe_F; 02-02-03 at 05:35 PM.
  #21  
Old 02-07-03, 05:30 AM
Joe_F
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We got 6" of snow, so I'm off to try "Big Green" in a few minutes. LOL.

T-man: This machine appears to have some sort of primer, but I think mine has been jurry-rigged a bit and is missing a knob. Do you have a better illustration of how this primer/spring is set up?

I can shoot you a photo if you want to visualize what we are up against here.

Thanks and I'll report back of how "Big Green" worked out
 
  #22  
Old 02-07-03, 06:20 AM
Tcumcman
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Snowblower

YES....Shoot me a picture of what you're working
with I'll look at this afternoon and get back to you
A.S.AP.

Tcumcman
 
  #23  
Old 02-07-03, 03:14 PM
Joe_F
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Will do T-man (tomorrow). It's dark out now and not likely to show up if I shoot a photo. Send it through DIY.com?

Big Green performed admirably. Very tough to start initially (I think it's this choke/primer issue), but after that, it ran fine and worked well. Ate up the snow like butter and cleared a nice path!

1st gear wanted to work, but I can see it needs adjustment. I thought I saw a little oil at the base area of the engine/machine, but I'm not sure. I may have really loaded it up by trying to start it and it could have swamped the chamber with fuel.

I changed the oil in it again. I'll run it a few more times and keep changing it to flush out any impurities/dirt in the engine.

The machine needs a little TLC here and there, but it is useable and works well .
 
  #24  
Old 02-08-03, 06:59 AM
Joe_F
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Ok T-man:

I'm off to get the pull handle and take the photos for you and get a few things for the old Chief. The last time I went to the local small engine dealer here, the guy is like "Wow, no one comes in here knowing who made their Sears product much less the part #. You want to work here? LOL". I then explained to him I work in the auto parts industry which is vastly similar in nature. His mother and he started asking questions, like, "Ok, if you know your stuff, who owns AYP?" (Frigidaire, owned by Electrolux AB of Sweden). He smiled and said, "Ok, who were they some years ago? (Roper)". He said, "I need a good parts man!" LOL.

1) I think the knob that is missing is #31679. This is called a "choke knob" in the parts literature, but I believe it is obsolete . It would appear that this knob threads on the choke rod somehow.

2) The engine decal indicates there is a primer bulb (it is supposed to be black), but I will shoot you a photo of the label so you'll see.

3) According to the parts list from Sears the unit came with a #691045 "Parts List and Instruction Manual". I called Tecumseh tech services and the lady said it wasn't a valid #. She didn't seem too smart. I believe, according to the first guy, who was more knowledgable that he had to "go into a room where they keep that old stuff" to find it. He sent me publication #181-166-1, dated 2-1-79.

Any scoop on #691045 and what it might be and how I can get a copy? I'm going to call Monday and see if I get the same guy again---he said he would send this #, but sent something else. LOL. The pictures in the #181-166-1 look a little "modern" for my engine. LOL. I did find the spec # in the microfiche I have at work on Tecumseh. I don't have the copy home. I was able to find #143.556022 on the "Craftsman cross reference chart" and it gave some sort of equivalent Tecumseh # and spec. It was H60 and something with a 7 # and a D if I recall right. I'll get you that # on Monday if you need it.

4) Of course Sears replied with "It's too old" to help--after denying the model # was even valid. I had to ensure them that it comes up on their parts website. LOL. (I had that problem with Maytag as well. Most companies don't know much about brands they took over or numbers which are very old).

5) The engine kill on this machine is a metal clip that is supposed to ground out the terminal on the spark plug. Yet, the parts list shows a spark plug boot. I don't know how that would work. LOL. The J8C has a screw off terinal, so what I did was put the plug wire terminal onto the threaded shaft and screw the terminal back on. Much more secure than the way they had it .

Thanks a bunch and for sticking with me. I'm getting there!
 
  #25  
Old 02-08-03, 02:02 PM
Joe_F
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Update:

The parts guy gave me a similar choke knob for my machine, but it's not the same #. I'll probably return it to him as it doesn't thread all the way down the shaft as I believe it should. I believe the # I need is obsolete and he gave me what he had.

We got into a little philosophical discussion about the machine and he said, "Well, it's not an Ariens". I said, "True, but then again, you won't find an Ariens this big in running shape for 180 bucks either ".

I tried to install the new pull handle (I don't think the D handle will work well. The pull handle is kinda through the clutch rod area and would interfere).

However, I put the new handle on and it doesn't recoil well . I cut a little rope before putting the new one on, and the rope retreated into the pull start. Shoot! I took it off the machine and put the new handle on. It doesn't recoil back enough and stays stuck. I took it apart and the spring looks wasted in there I can't tell really). So naturally by removing the spring, it springs all over. I need to put the spring back (how???) and get it to recoil again.

How should I proceed to get it back to 100%? I tried to look up the spring (#28289) and it doesn't show on Sears website.

Thanks and I'm not giving up .
 
  #26  
Old 02-08-03, 02:06 PM
Tcumcman
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Rewind Repair

Joe,

28289 springs have been obsolete for years, although, I know
where BUNCHES are in the field still. If you need one, send
me an address and I'll get one to you. That big 'ole spring
will beat you to death if you're not careful. I haven't seen one
of those in years, and it's been a long time since I've tried
to repair one. Boy....you DO HAVE an "oldy goldy" !!!

Tcumcman
 
  #27  
Old 02-08-03, 02:28 PM
Joe_F
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T-man:

Drop me an e-mail at [email protected]

I sent you an e-mail. Yes, it is an oldie. The engine dealer today said 1974, but I believe it to be 1964.

Thanks again!
 
  #28  
Old 02-14-03, 03:44 AM
Joe_F
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T-man and other friends:

Confirmed to be a 1965 model engine by a guy at Tec Technical Services. He stated to me that he found an operator's manual/parts breakdown/information out of an old Sears mechanic's handbook (would love to have one of those as a conversation piece!), and he found my engine there. Truly an Oldie Goldie!

I'm still waiting to hear from the History Factory to confirm that by reason of finding it in one of their catalog archives from Sears.

Mike is on it by helping me out with some needed things for it. Should hope to get it going this weekend---could use it as there is supposedly a whopper of a storm coming this weekend to NYC.

(I have backup access to machines in case mine is not ready ).

Thanks to all, and I'll report back.
 
  #29  
Old 02-19-03, 03:39 PM
Joe_F
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Persistence pays off . I was adamant they had to have it!

------------
Dear Mr. Figurelli:

As per your request, I made one more trip through our archive files for one final search and to cross reference the model number of your unit with similar Murray models for 1965.

I am sorry to report that instruction manuals and parts lists are only available for units produced within the past seven years. However, deep down in the dark recesses of our archive files, hidden in the bottom of a folder with a similar model number, I located what I believe to be the very last owner's manual/parts list of a Sears, Roebuck & Co model number 536.82231, 26" Craftsman Snow Thrower. I can not send you our last archive file copy, but I did take the liberty to make a photocopy on your behalf and mailed it to the address listed in your e-mail. It will arrive in a few days. I appreciate your patience and apologize for your inconvenience.

Again, should you have any questions, please feel free to contact our Customer Care Center at 1-800-251-8007 and ask to speak with a TECHNICAL Service Represetative. We are available Monday through Friday from 8 AM until 5 PM, Central Standard Time.

Sincerely,
David P. Wilson
Technical Service Correspondent
---------
 
  #30  
Old 02-20-03, 07:35 AM
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Joe - Although it's referred to as a "choke knob", it is actually part of the primer mechanism. It should have a spring under it. The spring holds the "choke plate" away from the carb until the knob is depressed. This "choke plate" is not the choke shutter, but a seperate item. It is used only when starting a cold engine. The instructions used to read something like "When starting a cold engine, prime by holding down the choke (or primer) knob and pull the starter rope two or three times". The choke plate seals off the carb throat almost completely, much tighter than the choke shutter. This causes more fuel to be drawn into the carb throat.
I'll be putting an old unit back together later. If you want a couple of pics, let me know.

Tom
 
  #31  
Old 02-20-03, 09:49 AM
Joe_F
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Yes, you are correct Tom. In fact, part #31679 was the knob I needed. I have an old (early 70's) Tecumseh master parts book and it says that #32400 (what I bought at the parts place) replaces it. One in the same part. I was concerned that the parts guy gave me whatever he had kicking around perhaps. Not the case. It is a supersession.

It says the word "Primer" on it, and is as you described. The machine is in such nice shape, even that decal (engine starting instructions) is very legible. Yes, you are correct, it states as you said. "Hold choke knob (black) in. Slowly pull rope. Let off choke. Pull starter rope sharply".

You hold in the primer and pull the rope over slowly, to draw more fuel in (I would gather). Then it states to let go of holding the primer and pull the rope sharply to start the engine.

I'm working with Mike Merritt on this and I should have it running shortly. I have the needed springs to fix the old recoil starter and hope to do that in a few days.

On the agenda to fix:

1) First gear.
2) Cleaning and servicing of the unit.
3) End of the season: New belt.
4) I thought I saw some oil seepage, but it could just be old oil. I will throughly clean the unit.
5) I'd like to install an electric starter if I can find a kit at a reasonable price for it.

The guy at Tecumseh said that I should see many years of meritorial service with diligent upkeep .

If anyone has any information on how I can adjust the speed disc, I'd be happy to hear it.

Thanks,
 
  #32  
Old 02-20-03, 10:59 AM
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Location: W. MA hills
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Joe,
I had some oil blowing by and coming out the breather on my oldest (and favorite, circa '63) machine. I threw a set of standard rings in, and the problem went away. The ring end gap with the new rings was .002" over max but it runs good anyhow. On a cold day it takes one slow pull with the primer "in" and starts on the next pull. Just a thought.

I think you may have hit it on the head regarding re-setting the friction disk. If you have reverse and no low range, you can eliminate a possible problem of the friction disk not moving parallel with face of the friction plate.

T
 
  #33  
Old 02-20-03, 03:35 PM
Joe_F
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It runs very nicely, but I'll check it out .

As for the speed disc, I agree, I just have to figure out how it is adjusted. It almost wanted to go a few times in first gear, you could feel it.

My goal is to get a well running, reliable machine---with the help of this forum, I'm getting there .
 
  #34  
Old 02-22-03, 04:10 PM
Joe_F
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Got the manual---cool, nostalgic stuff.

The gearcase uses SAE30 oil, and as for cold weather starting, get this, they recommend you put the unit near a lightbulb before taking it out into the cold for easy starting. LOL.

I did learn that the handles are adjustable (the previous guy must have been REALLY short) and there's a fair amount on how to maintain the machine in this manual. I'm glad I made the effort to find it!

Mike: I still have to install the spring and get it running. Then, I will ask for help on the other issues with the machine. I have to learn how to adjust the speed disc. It is part #28047 according to the manual.

I have also learned that back in 1965, vendor "536" may have been AMF/Western Tool which to my knowledge is obviously owned by Murray now.
 
  #35  
Old 02-27-03, 09:50 PM
Joe_F
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Folks:

Got it back together and it should be good to go now. JA bear to do, but it's done! Just in time too, we are expecting snow tomorrow! LOL.

Special thanks to Mike for sticking with me on this. I'll report the Chief's progress if I get to use it tomorrow .
 
  #36  
Old 02-27-03, 10:04 PM
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Hey Joe!

Did you get the speed control fixed too? Was it an adjustment to the drive disc?

Glad you got it going....wish i could have been more help, but I don't even know how snowblowers are made. Never even seen one that I recall. I call that a blessing, lol! I guess we could use something like a mosquito blower down here though!
 
  #37  
Old 02-28-03, 03:41 AM
Joe_F
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Cheese:

No, I didn't fix that yet. I figured at the end of the season I will tackle that as well as go through the machine completely from end to end.

If someone has an idea of how to adjust the linkage/speed disc, I'd be interested to know. At least the rubber portion is still available from Murray (P/n 27046 to my recollection).

Thanks for all the help! I hope it starts up now. It was after 12:00 when I put the pull start on this morning and didn't want to fire it up .
 
  #38  
Old 03-01-03, 04:52 PM
Joe_F
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Thumbs up Old Chief's in Order!

Gents:

Thanks for all the help here (Mike, I will e-mail you under separate cover, question for you).

I put the machine back together and took the time to change the belt with a Gates Powerated #6841. I also greased the unit and changed the fluids on it. I oiled the chains too

I fired up the machine and much to my surprise, I now have first gear . The old Chief fired up on the second try and sounded as commanding as ever.

A couple hours, some elbow grease and TLC and "Murray the Oldie Goldie" is back in business .

Thanks to this forum, I have a very nice snowblower in great shape for under 250 bucks. Try finding that kind of deal. Not to mention I learned something!

Best regards and thanks to all,
 
  #39  
Old 03-01-03, 07:00 PM
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Joe,
Got pics?
 
  #40  
Old 03-02-03, 08:57 AM
Joe_F
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Tom:

There are some through the Ebay link in the first post. I will probably take more soon. The machine is pretty nice for being close to 40 years old. I'm pleased thus far if it will stay in this condition and work well for a number of years.

I plan on contacting Sears with some photos to see if they are interested to hear about this machine.
 
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