Ignition Module Question


  #1  
Old 01-29-03, 07:28 PM
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Kohler module specs?

Anyone know how to test a kohler CH25 ignition module (S.A.M.)? I think I have a bad one, but cannot find any resistance values or testing procedures for it.

Kohler basically says to make sure everything else is OK, and if so, replace it. Huh? They want me to replace a part based on the fact that everything else is good? I like to be able to verify that an expensive part is actually BAD before I stick another one on.


Thanks for any help!
cheese
 
  #2  
Old 02-03-03, 04:52 AM
mikejmerritt
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Hey cheese, I thought I could find some test specs on these modules but havn't been able to. It seems that the guys around here just change parts until it runs and pass on the bill. Explains those awful bills at the local John Deere dealer....:-(..... My next bright idea has been delayed because my ohm meter is on the blink. I have two of these modules new in the box that I was going to test and see what turned up. Kohler isn't completely out line in what they say because there isn't much to these systems. If the relays (if equiped) check out all that is left is the coil and module. I have seen more than one case where a bad module took out the coil. I think I was where you are now on this and that is why I went for a couple of modules for my shelf stock so I could troubleshoot these Kohler twin systems.....Mike
 
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Old 02-03-03, 07:49 PM
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Mike...you wouldn't believe the trouble I went through with this machine. Between me and the best guy I could put on it, there were over 30 hours involved in getting this machine fixed!!!!!!!!!

It was a freak situation that would probably never happen again. I guess most people would have just sold the guy a new engine after the first 10 unproductive hours, but problems like this get personal and become a vendetta to me. I did figure it out though, and can say it didn't lick me!

It's amazing how a simple little engine can throw you for a loop once in awhile!

Thanks for trying!...chuck
 
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Old 02-14-07, 11:49 AM
D
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Cheese,
Could you please explain the "freak" situation that you encountered. I have an ignition problem that I just cannot figure out. I have replaced the ignition module but still can't get it to work. Thanks,
David
 
  #5  
Old 02-14-07, 02:19 PM
Azis
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I musta missed this post the first time round

I'd also be interested in knowin bout your gremlin.

I can't believe your suprised by kohler's answer though, hehehe I know you keep a spare kawasaki module close by for the exact same reasons :P
 
  #6  
Old 02-14-07, 08:29 PM
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Azis...I completely forgot about this thread (it is from 4 years ago!).
And you're right, I do keep a spare kawasaki AND Kohler modules at the shop for troubleshooting procedures.

Anyway, the freak situation was not actually a prblem with the engine itself. This engine was a 25 horse twin cylinder command (how well I remember). It was mounted on a huge pit vac tank on dual axles. It was used by an environmental engineering company, I think mainly for environmental de-contamination. Anyway, it had a huge vacuum pump coupled to the engine. Before it was brought to me to repair, it had been at a machine shop for some metalwork and welding to be done. The welder apparently clamped the ground lead for the welder to a metal handle on the gate valve on the vacuum pump when he was welding. The current from the welder travelled through the pump shaft, impellers, to the case, and out to the handle. When it did this, it arced between the surfaces and froze the gate valve in place. So...the engine was trying to run, but was pulling a vacuum against a closed valve...so it could never crank up. It would just barely spin over fast enough to kick the starter bendix out, but then it wouldn't run after the starter quit "helping it along". The pump turned easily by hand, but by hand you couldn't turn it fast enough to develop the vacuum I guess. Anyway, I broke the gate valve loose to relieve the engine during startup and it worked fine.

To begin with, this problem was baffling to me. I thought the engine had problems. It acted like retarded timing, but the SAM module was expensive and I didn't have one on hand for testing purposes. I bought one and put it on to no avail. I keep one on hand now. (this instance is how I actually got an extra one to keep on hand, lol). I also did a valve job (which it did need, incidentally) and some other work trying to get this engine running. I kept thinking about isolating the engine from the unit, but since it turned so smoothly by hand, I just didn't do it. Now I know better. These are the kind of problems that make us better mechanics, HA!

David, what are your symptoms?
 
  #7  
Old 02-15-07, 07:00 AM
Azis
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WoW! I only glanced at the month n day I guess heheh but makes more sense being that old ;D
One of those that not only makes wiser mech's but also OLDER mech's
 
 

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