Engine Question

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  #1  
Old 02-09-03, 07:45 PM
turn&burn
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ring ridge on briggs&straton I/C twin

I have a briggs & stratton mod.422707,type 1510,code 90031312.The starter cover says I/C twin cast iron bore. The engine is on a MTD ridding mower that I got from a friend a few years ago. When I got the mower it was smoking some and had some blow by. I have just removed the engine and the heads. I found that there is a considerable ridge at the top of each cylinder. I have been in other small engines before but none of them had steel sleeves. I have not measured the amount of ring wear, but from my past experience with other engines I would say that there is about .010 on the ridge.What I need to know is, when I look up parts I see that B&S offers .010,.020 & .030 rings and piston assy. with rings installed. Can someone tell me about what boring cost will be? I was also wondering what the deal is with the .010 oversize. In auto engines I have never known anyone boring less than .020. If there was that little tapper, would you just hone it to clean up and go with the .010? Also would I be better off to resleeve? I didn't see sleeve replacement in the parts breakdown. About what would that cost?
 
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  #2  
Old 02-09-03, 10:33 PM
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Hello turn&burn!

The best way to take care of the problem would be to have it bored. The price will vary, but should run somewhere around $40.00 a hole at a small engine shop. Oversized pistons and rings will be needed. I wouldn't reccomend cutting the ridge and going with .010" over rings because the cylinders are out of round. They need to be trued up again. Re-sleeving shouldn't be necessary though, unless excessive wear or cracks have been found. Re-sleeving is not normal procedure, but can be done.

I would not reccomend going this far without doing a total rebuild...valves, seals, rods, gaskets, etc...

It wouldn't be fun to do all that work and have a worn rod make a door in the side of the block 30 minutes after you get it running again.

A brand new engine can be had for around $700.00 (42D707 I/C series 18/18.5 HP). Keep that in mind when deciding your plan of action.

Keep us posted, and let us know if we can help!
 
  #3  
Old 02-10-03, 06:12 AM
mikejmerritt
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Hello turn&burn, cheese has answered your questions so this post is just my thoughts on this engine. I don't like any of the horizontally opposed Briggs twins. There are a few good ones out there and I had one last summer for a shop mower/tractor that was a good one but they are far and few between. I don't know how many of these I have pulled down that were smokers and had some awful cylinder out of roundness. I've never seen one with anywhere near .010 ridge and still running so be cautious there. I have a Briggs update that says that the smoking on these engines "can" be caused by lack of crankcase vacuum due to design or from a leak and goes on to spell out how to check. This anomoly would explain not only the smoking but the excessive wear. For what its worth this is what I would do in this case: Toss the 18HP twin in the scrap pile. Put a B&S Intek 17 HP OHV in its place. I can assure you except in the most extreme conditions (like rear bagging/vacuuming) the 17 is all the engine you need. I have a 2002 Troy Bilt (really an MTD now) with the 17 on it and it would really do it. I say would because the trans is gone on it and it is exclusive to MTD/Troy Bilt and the mower is TOTALED due to trans cost. You want this engine for 300.00 plus shipping its yours if it would help. I need it out of the way. I also just saw a new Tecumseh 17 HP OHV online for around $550.00 when checking prices before posting this. This engine would do the trick and the price is unbeatable for a brand new engine.
I square and bore small engines and I view the .010 piston/rings as a super hone job for an engine that doesn't present any major problems. .020 is a minimum for a true rebuild. Sleeving the 18 twin is out of the question because the sleeves are 40.00 each, machine work to install them 50.00 each and then 30.00-40.00 to square and bore each hole.
These are just some things to think about......Mike
 
  #4  
Old 02-10-03, 10:39 AM
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Hey Mike...

What kind of tranny is on the mower? Model#?

If you think you might want to fix the machine, I know how to get ahold of some different trannies for cheap. Maybe I can help you find what you need for this thing without spending more than it's worth.
 
  #5  
Old 02-10-03, 05:07 PM
mikejmerritt
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I meant to bring the #'s home tonight but didn't. I'll get them Tuesday and get them posted here. Maybe it is something from a machine not sold around here. It is made oddly due to the low slung floor pan in the Troy Bilt. Thanks....Mike
 
  #6  
Old 02-12-03, 05:11 AM
mikejmerritt
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Hey cheese, I suppose I should have started this trans hunt in its own thread but turn&burn has what he needs and/or is MIA.

Here are my #'s.....Troy-Bilt model 13AD609G063 Ser. 1F 149H30040


Transaxle # 618 0307 Q-043712

I would like to know what you come up with on this but don't go way out for it because this mower is mine and given what I could get for it repaired I may as well part it out.

Thanks a million......Mike
 
  #7  
Old 02-13-03, 01:39 PM
turn&burn
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thanks!!

Thanks to all for the information and opinons. I will have to thinks over all my options. I am not too pressed at the moment for the mower to be up and running. I will check back when I am ready to complete this project, although I sure hate leaving this kind of thing undone very long. Mike, I am sure thats a good deal on the engine you are offering. I am just going to have to hold off for atleast a week or two.I hope you still have it when I am ready.I was just curious, if the mower is that new,shouldn't there have been some waranty on the transmission or was it abused. Thanks again to all.
 
  #8  
Old 02-13-03, 07:50 PM
mikejmerritt
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I thought some might wonder why I can't get warranty work on this machine. I didn't buy it new and would have to jump through hoops to get some help with it......Mike
 
  #9  
Old 02-13-03, 09:43 PM
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Hey Mike...I couldn't come up with a replacement trans. for your machine. Is that # the troybilt #, or the transaxle manufacturer's number? Who made it? Is it Hydro? If I can find a match, you might find that it's worth fixing. (If the guy has one, I can probably get it for you for 100 bucks or so...and all his trannies are new). I just couldn't match the #s you gave to anything. Not even close. Maybe it's just something odd. Anyway...I don't mind looking again if you happen to come up with some other #s.

Chuck
 
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