Welcome to the DoItYourself Forums!

To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. It's free!

Snowblower still won't GO


Forestman2's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

02-24-03, 09:39 AM   #1  
Forestman2
10Hp Tescumseth Carb Screw identification

I am having trouble identifying the screws to adjust a 10 Hp Tescumseth Carb. There is the idle screw which is located under the carb bowl and then there is two other screws on the intake pipe, one located above the intake and one below the intake. These screws have all been readjusted to the point where the snowblower won't start. It is my mothers snowblower and I need to get it going to clear the 3 feet of snow dropped on the weekend.

Can you give me some idea where these screws should be adjusted to in order to get the blower even running again. I have no idea of what screw does what.

 
Sponsored Links
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 16,565
GA

02-24-03, 11:30 AM   #2  
Hello Forestman2!

The screw at the top of the carb that contacts the throttle should be turned clockwise until it begins to touch the throttle, then tighten it two more full turns to start off with.

Then, turn the screw on the side of the carb (idle mixture screw) clockwise until it lightly bottoms out, then back it out 2 full turns.

Then do the same with the high-speed mixture screw (the one on the bottom of the bowl).

This should get it running.

Once running, set the throttle to wide open. Turn the high-speed screw clockwise until the engine dies, or begins to die/run rough. Then turn it counter clockwise, counting the turns, until it begins to run rough again. Take that # of turns, divide it by two, and turn it clockwise that number. (if you backed it out 6 turns before it started running badly again, turn it back in 3).

Then set the throttle to idle. Adjust the idle mixture screw (on the side of the carb) until you get the best idle.

Then adjust the idle speed screw at the top of the carb until the engine is idling at the RPM desired.

Let us know how it goes!


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
Forestman2's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

02-27-03, 06:25 AM   #3  
Forestman2
Snowblower still won't GO

I tried everything Cheese you suggested and the thing will still not start to run. The high idle on this unit is actually mounted on the side of the motor. The needle in the bottom of the carb bowl does not have any holes in it to clean, but comes to a blunt point. The screws on the intake pipe are both spring loaded but the upper one seems to do nothing while the lower one I suspect is an airmixture screw.

Do you have any other suggestions?

 
Joe_F's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

02-27-03, 09:23 AM   #4  
Joe_F
A picture's worth a thousand words on this---visit a public library and most have small engine repair books you can take out (Mine does). I have found this usually gets things going and makes for good reading .

 
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 16,565
GA

02-27-03, 09:15 PM   #5  
I'm not sure if you are looking at the correct screws. The "high idle" you mentioned...I don't know what you are referring to. Especially if it is on the side of the engine and not the carb. The high speed mixture screw screws into the bottom of the carb unless you have a tillotson carb. (then it's still at the bottom, but going in horizontally instead of vertically). Does your carb have a bowl that is attatched by a "nut" on the bottom with a screw going through it? Or is the bowl molded into the bottom half of the carb...made completely of cast aluminum?


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
Forestman2's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

02-28-03, 02:17 AM   #6  
Forestman2
Snowblower Carb

Thanks Cheese for your help!

This is an interesting set up. I will try to explain the best I can. The unit is a Noma "Canadiana" Snowblower with a 10Hp Briggs and Stratton engine. The carb it self has a choke plate right at the initial opening "tube" and then the tube has a bowl underneath with a screw and a bolt to hold the bowl in place. To the left of the bowl the tube continues and approx 1/2 way up are two spring loaded screws, one below the intake tube and one above the intake tube. The tube then continues in behind the muffler.

To adjust the engine speed, there is a slider mounted on the side of the engine block, completely away from the intake tube. The slider has a screw adjustment there also for high idle I would assume, as if it is left in the low running position, the adjustment screw does not touch anything.

There is also a primer bulb on the engine, which when pushed two or three time floods the primer tube. I have been leaving this alone after pushing just once.

We have been experiencing exceptionally cold tempetures here lately and tons of snow. I would like to get this unit working again, as it consumes a lot of my time clearing a path to my mothers house along a laneway that is some three hundred feet long.

Her next door neighbour felt it wan't running right because of a backfire at low idle and that is when these screws got all turned.

Any help is appreciated as she is 74 and on a fixed income and I cannot afford to support my own family and cover repair costs for her right now.

 
buttlint's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

02-28-03, 04:29 AM   #7  
buttlint
Forestman,

I think we are getting a bit confused. Your first post says "10 hp Tecumseh" and your last says "10 hp Briggs"

Perhaps if you posted the engine model, type and code, we could cut to the chase. Those numbers are located on the blower housing( pull start cover) Thanks, 'lint.

 
Joe_F's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

02-28-03, 05:19 AM   #8  
Joe_F
I would have to agree with Lint as Noma should be under the Murray umbrella now. (www.murrayinc.com)

Most B&S engines in snow blowers are rare. The "Chief" (Tecumseh) has it pretty wrapped up with the snowblower market .

 
Forestman2's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

02-28-03, 06:57 AM   #9  
Forestman2
Correction on Make of engine

I'm sorry, the hours are getting to me. It is a tescumseh 10 Hp and the following numbers are stamped on the housing:
HM100 15911SM
Ser 71750

i apologize for saying it was a Briggs and Stratton

 
rogerh's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 233

02-28-03, 08:06 AM   #10  
Go to this site, you can down load a general Tecumseh manual for a 3 to 11 HP engine. It has a lot of information that may be of interest.

http://www.cpdonline.com/home.htm

 
buttlint's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

02-28-03, 01:42 PM   #11  
buttlint
Forestman,

What Roger said. The manual is free, and it should give you a good idea of what you are looking at. If you need further help, we are all still here. 'lint.

 
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 16,565
GA

03-06-03, 01:04 AM   #12  
Forestman,

Have you got it fixed yet? We are talking about different screws here. If you still need help, let us know!


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
Forestman2's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

03-06-03, 05:48 AM   #13  
Forestman2
Blower Update

Thanks to all for responding. Unfortunately this unit still will not go and seems like it has no intention. I downloaded the info at the web site and it appears to be a type 3 or 4 carb from tecumseh.

I haven't had all that much time for it this past week and to be honest, the frustration level is getting up there.

I will try to provide a clear layout of the carb and intake so that some of you can picture it in your mind. I can take a picture of it if this would be of any assistance.

Looking at the carb side of the engine and going from right to left in order is the following:

At the intake opening is a choke plate which is actuated manually with four seperate settings, fully open, 1/3 closed, 2/3 closed and fully closed. Below and slightly right is the carb bowl and setting screw which goes through a bolt that holds the bowl in place.

To the left of this along the intake tube is two screws, one below the intake tube and one above. The screw above the tube looks like it touches a wing that controls something inside the intake tube and is attached by a wire to the govenor. The one below just disappears into the casting of the intake tube. Both of these screws have springs behind the head.

On the side of the engine block is the engine speed control which controls the speed setting for the motor. There is a sring loaded screw here also which also is connected by a wire to the govenor.

There was no air filter or anyting in front of the choke.

I appreciate all the help and hope that someone has a way I can get this going as the snow in the lane is now waist high.

 
rogerh's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 233

03-06-03, 07:47 AM   #14  
You should be able to find that setup in the manual you downloaded. There is no air filter on snow blowers because there should be no dust in the air to filter out and the paper or foam in a air filter would just freeze up after getting wet.
Just follow the instructions in the manual.

 
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 16,565
GA

03-08-03, 01:24 AM   #15  
Ok...to ID these screws for you:

The screw that goes through the "nut" that holds the bowl on is the HIGH SPEED mixture screw.

The screw that you described as "below the intake tube" is the LOW SPEED mixture screw.

The screw that is above the intake tube is the IDLE SPEED screw.

Adjust these screws per the instructions in my first response and see if that gets you running again. If not, there are other problems.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
Search this Thread