Lawn Tractor Problem

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  #1  
Old 03-09-03, 09:58 AM
cuffs054
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Model 38615B Murray Rider

Just was given a 38615B 38" cut 12.5 B&S Murray built in 1992, date code 0652. It has sat unused at least one year. Prior to that it was serviced, with new oil, filter cleaned, new plug. I know "squat" about this beast! Put new battery in, got nothing happening. Finally got one of the headlamps to light.
Have already been warned that starter solenoid is probable cause. It looks original and all connection sites are rusted. After I replace solenoid and clean connections (are there any hidden that are important?), what should be my next step? Is there any recommeded lube points that I should address? Called Murray, owner manual no longer available, but they are sending parts diagram and list.
Oh yeah, can someone tell me how to correctly start it? I'm guessing: trans in neutral, blades disengaged, throttle to choke position, turn key. Does seat have to be occupied, or is the safety switch just for engaging blades? What about clutch pedal?
Any help, deeply appreciated!!
 
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  #2  
Old 03-09-03, 09:06 PM
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Hello cuffs054. Welcome to our Small Engine forum.

In order for the professionals in this forum to help you, you will also need to help us. To do so, you will most likely need to tell us what you have already done.

As an example. If you think there is a seat safety interlock to prevent the engine from starting without you in the seat, did you look for any wiring under the seat? A switch under the seat? Etc?

Have you attempted to start the engine being in the seat and holding the clutch down? Is the transmission in netural? Does the engine crank at all? Hear any clicking noise while turning the key to start the engine?

Asnswer to questions like these help us to help you. Kindly use the reply button to add all the additional information requested. Also tell us what you have already done and the result of what you found and or happened.

The mear fact that the engine was not started in a year or so, means the fuel left in the tank, fuel lines and carb have long ago turned stale and gummed up the entire fuel system.

Next possible fact is corrosion is very possible on any and or all electrical wiring terminals, etc. Most likely at the starter and or battery terminals. All corrosion must be removed to insure proper electrical connections.

Lube points and all other associated parts and maintenance items should be totally disregarded at this time. Until the starting and engine running problems are corrected, it is best to focus your attentions to and on the engine problems.

Post the information requested in as much detail as needed. Check back on your topic several times after that and over the next several days afterwards for additional replies.

Suggestion:
Read the other questions and replies offered on this same type of problem topic in the recent postings, within this forum, for additional help & information on this subject.

Use the REPLY button to post the requested information. Using the reply button moves the topic back up to the top of the daily topic list automatically.

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  #3  
Old 03-10-03, 04:08 AM
mikejmerritt
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Hello cuffs054, if the seat switch is connected it will not start unless you are in the seat. The blade must be disengaged and the clutch will have to be pressed down to start.....Mike
 
  #4  
Old 03-10-03, 05:44 AM
cuffs054
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Gentlemen, thanks for the replies. Yes there is a wired safety switch on seat, tracing the wiring it seems to go to a "plunger-type" switch that is depressed by the clutch and position of shifter. No, I don't even get a solenoid click with the key in start position. There is no sound at all at start position. All the connections to solenoid and ground points are rusty and or corroded and I will clean them. I would like to be brave enough to try bypassing or jumping solenoid with jumper cables, but that is a little more than I am up for at this point. Any other suggestions greatfully accepted.
 
  #5  
Old 03-10-03, 01:20 PM
cuffs054
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Thumbs up

Update! It was the solenoid. Replaced it, cleaned all connections and it cranks like new. Took a while to get it to start. I'm sure the gas that is in it is a big part of problem. When it does start, it backfires out of the muffler, almost continually. NOTE NOTE: I gave you the wrong info on engine! When I wiped off the dust it is a 12.5 hp Tecompsah (sp) not a B&S. Any suggestions on what I need to do next?
 
  #6  
Old 03-10-03, 06:50 PM
J A Boggan
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Hello Cuffs054,
After you get all the other problems solved, you still need to go through you starting system and make certain that ALL connection points are cleaned from your battery to the starter. At this low voltage (12 volts) ANYTHING can prevent your starter working. So, just make sure your connections are super clean. It can save you lots of headaches in the future.
 
  #7  
Old 03-10-03, 09:37 PM
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Hello Cuffs!

The backfiring problem will most likely be solved by draining the old fuel and cleaning the carburetor. Give that a shot, and let us know how it goes.

As far as grease fittings, there are usually few if any on murray products. Sometimes you may find a fitting behind each front wheel. That's probably it. It would be a good idea to spray virtually everything that moves with penetrating oil.
 
  #8  
Old 03-11-03, 07:02 AM
cuffs054
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Cheese, thanks for the info. You're right about the fittings, I have found none to date. There are some obvious points that I want to put some white grease on, but I would welcome your opinion first. The steering is a rudimentary rack/pinion system. The teeth are exposed and look like a great place to put lube. But am I just inviting a build up of crud if I do that?
Yesterday, after I got the beast running I decided to try the tranny. If America's Funniest Video had been in the neighborhood I would have taken 1st.
I depressed clutch and put it in 1st. Released clutch, nothing happened. HOWEVER, what I didn't realize was that clutch like all else was "sticky" from lack of use. While I'm daydreaming about "mowing the back 40" the clutch engaged, the mower took off, heading directly for my truck! (mind you, it has two flat tires!) As I recovered my composure, I stamped down on clutch only to have the rubber pedal cover disenergate and my foot slipped off, and off we went, flat tires, backfiring engine and my fat butt flailing around in something of a panic! The old thing must still have some life in it, it managed to move a respectable distance at a fair clip, dragging the mower deck (flat tires) and in fact spun the flats right off the rims! I can't wait to get it up and going!! I may have to plant more grass!!! Thanks again for the help.
 
  #9  
Old 03-11-03, 10:55 AM
Joe_F
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Original poster:

Call up Murray and ask for David Walton (I believe that is the name---check my post on my snowblower a few down from this one) in Technical Services. He was able to find the original owner's manual for my 1965 Craftsman Murray made machine. If they have that, they surely have your 1992 machine's owner's book!!!

I found I had to prod them a bit to get someone competent. But when I did, I hit paydirt----I got the EXACT Sears owner's manual that came with my machine. Yahoo!!!
 
  #10  
Old 03-11-03, 09:29 PM
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Cuffs,

It does look like a great place to swab on some grease, I admit, but...you're right, it will gob up with trash and dirt. The best thing to do would be to keep it clean and spray it with penetrating oil or squirt some lightweight motor oil on it. This will help lube the column bushing and the flange surface that the rack pivots on. The gears themselves don't need lubrication. This pretty much goes for all moving parts...oil or spray, but not grease. (to avoid dirt and grit accumulation, which could be more detrimental than no lube at all).

Sounds like you had a Kodak moment, lol!
 
  #11  
Old 03-12-03, 02:10 PM
cuffs054
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The Murray 38615B saga continues!

It's running and has new tires. BUT, I broke the blade belt, which was rotten to start.
The obvious ? how do I buy one, and change it?
General ? can mower be stood on back end to access bottom? or will this dump multiple fluids everywhere?
Also, the "neutral" position on the tranny seems to be more of a suggestion than a reality! The mower will continue to creep forward in "N" any suggestions?
I don't think I've said Thanks for everything so far, ya'll have been great!
 
  #12  
Old 03-12-03, 05:28 PM
Joe_F
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Have Murray fax you the parts list for the machine. Then call up Gates Rubber company and ask them to interchange the Murray # to a Gates #. Ask if there is a PoweRated belt---those are the green ones recommended for small engines.

Go to any parts store that stocks Gates. They will order the needed belt. Cheaper than Murray, same belt usually.

I saved over 7 bucks by ordering my '65 Craftsman snowblower belt through my local wholesale jobber store. They had mine in stock .

As for the creeping, I suspect you have an adjustment issue with the linkage.
 
  #13  
Old 03-12-03, 07:16 PM
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Arrow Please Use The Reply Button

Hello: cuffs054

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  #14  
Old 03-13-03, 12:05 AM
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Walmart usually carries several different Murray belts...check there for one, or your local small engine/lawnmower repair shop should have one. Don't stand the mower on end...this one is not designed for that. The blade belt can be changed easily while the mower is sitting flat on the ground.

Does the mower have a hydrostatic transmission, or standard?
 
  #15  
Old 03-13-03, 07:28 AM
cuffs054
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Sorry for the screw up with the second thread, I've figured it out now. As always thanks for the replies! The question of hydrostatic vs regular is about this far over my head! I'm guessing that it is not hydro. However, in playing with it I've never actually caused any gears to "grind", does that help? The shift lever is located in area between your knees. There seem to be some very "weak" gear "detents" that you can feel as shifter is moved. Shifter it self is a "floppy" affair with a large degree of movement to engage different speeds.
 
  #16  
Old 03-13-03, 04:17 PM
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Ok, you don't have a hydro. That is a common problem on that mower, and you probably won't be able to fix it without taking the tranny apart, but I wouldn't worry about it. You will, with use, get acquainted with how to get the shifter into neutral. Sometimes it is easier to shift into reverse, then back up one notch to get it into neutral.
 
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