Riding Mower Question

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  #1  
Old 03-21-03, 03:09 PM
mrpogo
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Cool Murray Riding mower

I recently recieved a free murray riding mower due to a relative moving into a smaller place with a tecumseh ohvxl120 12 hp industrial commercial motor any way it started fine when I brought it home last week. Today I tried to mow with it any way it ran for a few minutes then it quit and I cant get it started again it has spark and it keeps flooding out I have almost killed the battery trying to get it restarted this is no big deal as I can put it on my trickle charger tonight I know it was re ringed last summer and has had a few other things done to it Im thinking the carb needs to be rebuilt but Im not sure where to start as I have no experiance with this type of motor
 
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  #2  
Old 03-21-03, 07:46 PM
Tcumcman
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OVXL120 Problems

MrPogo,

I'm the Central Distributor for Tecumseh in your area out of
Charlotte. The OVXL120 model is one of the OLDER designs
of OHV engine, and hasn't been produced since 1992. It's a
good engine, but requires a little knowledge of how it works,
and an "extra hand" when R & R'ing the cylinder head and
rocker box. Put your piston @ top dead center, compression
stroke, where BOTH valves will be closed/seated. Take a
feeler gauge & measure between the valve stem & rocker
arm. You're looking for .002 on the top one (intake) & .004
on the bottom one (exhaust). A push rod may have jumped
out from under the rocker arm, and this loss of compression
may be the reason why it won't now run. There is a rocker
arm kit for these older engines that's nice to install (part
#730221A) and includes new rockers, studs, O-rings, locking
nuts, palnuts, etc. While you're in there....might be a good
thing to install. Now....if after you've set the valves this way
the engine is VERY HARD TO SPIN OVER....chances are, the
mechanical compression release on the camshaft is not
working properly and will need to be replaced to fix that....
But, let's hope, it's just a simple valve adjustment fix...Odds
are....it'll probably solve this problem. HOPE SO !!! Let me know
if I can help further !!

Tcumcman
 
  #3  
Old 03-22-03, 12:52 AM
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It could well be a valve problem, but I would like to know how badly it is flooding out. Is it flooding to the point of gas dripping from the carb area and blowing out the exhaust?
 
  #4  
Old 03-22-03, 03:03 AM
mrpogo
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What little bit I did get it to run it was smoking quite alot and yes there was fuel dripping out of the carb not alot of dripping but enough to notice and when I pulled the air filter the inlet side was wet with fuel as well. Thats what led me to believe that the carb needed to be rebuilt or at least some sort of adjustment made on it. I dont have a service manual for it yet but Ill run down to one of my local shops today and see if I can get one. My father in law who has run this mower says it has been hard to start for a while even after the rering last summer. Is it possible that the guy who did the work just replaced the rings and diddnt bother with the valve adjustment, or even touch the carb they were going to try to get their money back at one time after the work was done due to his poor quality work. Im not sure who did the work but I am sure hes just some local repair man without alot of experiance with a tecumseh motor.
 
  #5  
Old 03-22-03, 04:48 AM
mrpogo
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Ok that was easy enough I pulled the valve cover just now and yep the valves are as loose as a goose over .020 loose on each of them I would imagine to re adjust these for now I loosen the outer nut and tighten the inner nut till I get the reading you put in the previous post tc am I right or way off base. Any way neither of em had jumped out of the rocker arm but I'm sure this looseness can attribute to some of my problems like not getting a full dose of air fuel mixture into the cylinder etc....
While I was in there I also found my mysterious oil leak seems that one of the valve cover screws was snapped off at the head I would imagine from over torque any way thank god I'm a pack rat and it had enough head left to grab with a pair of vice grips I had one that was the same size and length in my parts can except it isn't a internal torx head oh well it will work for now
 
  #6  
Old 03-22-03, 05:03 AM
Tcumcman
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OVXL120 Repairs....

There are (3) fasterners that hold the rocker box onto the
cylinder head....The (2) studs the rockers sit on, and a small
1/4" headed bolt. There shouldn't been any torx headed
bolts in there...if so, it's been ADDED by someone. There's
a plate under the rocker arm studs. This is called the push
rod guide plate. If you remove the pal locking nuts, & the
lock nuts under them, remove the studs, the 1/4" bolt, and
the rocker box will slide off over the valve guides and off
the push rod tubes. There are O-rings on the push rod tubes
(BOTH ends of them) and around valve guides (neoprene on
the intake guide, teflon/white on the exhaust for heat), an
O-ring under each stud, and on also under the 1/4" bolt.
ALL these rings are part of the 730221A kit I mentioned in
the earlier post. The valve guides ARE replaceable on these
(part# 730218, SAME guides as found on OH140, OH160
bigger cast-iron engines). Head gasket 35306A.

If fuel IS running out the venturi/intake of the carb, then there
is CERTAINLY some carb problems (leaking needle/seat, float
damaged or has pinhole allowing fuel to seep into it). Carb
kit to repair that carb is part# 632347. CHECK IT ALL OUT....
and let us know how we can further assist.

Tcumcman
 
  #7  
Old 03-22-03, 05:29 AM
mrpogo
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the fuel line after the filter is starting to crack as well so it needs to be replaced Ill drop by a-1 engines today if they are open and get the parts I need and do the carb while Im at it. The broken torx heaed bolt was just on the valve cover every thing else in there looked stock as far as I could tell. it turns over easy enough by hand and you can feel the compression stokes and such I forgot to put the battery on charge last night but its on there now. I thought after adjusting the valves I would try to start it and see if that helped Ill post later and tell you what I found
 
  #8  
Old 03-22-03, 08:05 AM
mrpogo
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woohoo a minor valve adjustment and a new fuel line and I'm good to go for now any way. I just mowed a couple of rounds through the yard and it works like a champ I will still need to rebuild that carb but for now its running. BTW does any one know the part number for the muffler on this motor its a bit louder than I would like it to be and seeing as it is rusted some around the exhaust holes I'm sure it wont be long till I need a new one.
Thanks to all who helped me out on this I really do appreciate it
 
  #9  
Old 03-22-03, 12:35 PM
Tcumcman
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Muffler

I believe the Murray is a "carb side" exhaust direction...
right ?? If so...use 35294A. Expensive, though...$45.
You can CHANGE the muffler to a Murray muffler which
exhaust out the "starter side". You will have to change
the exhaust manifold if you do this. Not sure how much
the Murray muffler is, and the manifold is about $20.

Tcumcman

P.S. If you decide to replace with the 35294A, check out
the flange this bolts to, as it tends to rust badly over time
and will BREAK-OFF the end of the manifold.
 
  #10  
Old 03-23-03, 07:04 PM
cheese's Avatar
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Good job on the valve adjustments! I bet it cranks much easier now. (they get hard to crank when the valves are loose).
 
  #11  
Old 07-04-08, 05:41 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Covington, Ga
Posts: 1
Unhappy seat adjustment for OLDER murray mower

I just purchased a used Murray Lawnmower and due to the fact that it was manufactured in 2002, there is no electronic manuel available to me! I just need to know how to adjust the seat. I am short and it is all the way back. It seems as if I need to undo some screws under the seat and slide it etc... SURELY there is an easier way, I do not have that "whatchamacallit" tool with the holes on the end to adjust it. If anyone out there can help that would be greatly appreciated!
 
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