Engine Running Problem

Old 03-30-03, 06:22 AM
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Exclamation Frigidaire Mower

Good morning Mike, Cheese, Fish and all:

I do not have the exact specs on this, but I will get back to you with that. Here's what I do know.

This is a 3.5 HP Briggs engine on this mower. It is a fairly new (within the last 5 years) that belongs to my uncle. The history of this machine was that it was new. My uncle bought it from a guy that buys closed out new yard equipment or dented equipment. This one had some concrete dust on it. That was of no concern though, the unit ran great for a couple of years (see the cause below).

I believe this is either a rebadged Murray or a very cheap AYP. I'm leaning torward the latter as AYP/Fridigaire/Electrolux are all one company. AYP of course also makes the "917" Sears products.

I know in talking to my uncle he left some rotten gas in there and now of course it will fire and run on what is in the chamber and die. I will of course clear the fuel line and replace it perhaps, but what in the carburetor am I looking at on these?

On my beloved Tecs, we all know that you clear out the fuel bowl bolt and most times this gets you running. How about on B&S motors like this?

What am I up against? I have a Chilton repair manual, I will start there too, but I know you guys have seen this before. I'll be working on this machine around noon today, so I'll look back for replies.

LOL---As an aside to Mike, I got that Sears (Paramount) (another product of the Joe_F Recycled Lawn and Garden Equipment School) blower running. Someone threw it out because it had no second speed. The cause? A jammed ball bearing in the speed switch. The ball bearing "clicks" into the various stops to lock the swith into speed. The 110% way to fix it is to solder in a new switch. I removed the bearing and now while the unit has no "clicks" for the speeds, BOTH speeds work and I have a "new" blower .

Old 03-30-03, 06:58 AM
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Come on bud. You should know better. Model, type and code

I would guess that this is a Sprint engine, with a plastic carb mounted on a steel tank. Those carbs are a piece of cake, but there are a couple of things to watch out for.

Usually all you need is a new diaphram and gasket. They have a little fuel flap that gets crinkled up. The fuel well usually collects a lot of stuff also. Save the old gasket too. Sometimes the carb will warp, and you can double the gasket to compensate. ( not recommened by Briggs, but that has saved my butt a couple of times.)

Check the primer too, it should really throw a charge into the throat of the carb. They have a check valve and seat, but are seldom a problem.

Like the old briggs carb, make sure to install the air filter screw when testing. It opens into the tank and has to be in place to run right.

If I am wrong about which carb you have, then its all your fault!!!! for not having model, type and code. (kidding) But you said that time was of the essence, and it looks like I might be the only one up, on this sunday morning. So you are stuck with...........'lint.
Old 03-30-03, 08:38 AM
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Lol. Yea, yea, yea, I know . I don't have the machine here or you would have every casting # there is on it. LOL. I'm going there in a little while.

I don't like to do a job without doing my homework first. LOL. But, this what I am up against. I have a feeling I have to take this one apart and get it going again .

LOL. I'm even guessing this is a B&S engine because I have not seen the machine in some time and never looked closely at it. I'll report back later on it .

Thanks a bunch!
Old 03-30-03, 09:15 AM
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Hello: Joe

Since it is Sunday and the local small engine repair shops are closed and the most likely part causing the problem is the carb, take it apart carefully.

Be sure to note where each part is and how it was installed and or secured prior to disassembly. Which should not be a problem for you since you are already mechanically handy...

Clean out or clear out all internal fuel passages using canned automotive carb cleaner. Wear protective eye protection.

Clean out the bowl and or other internal parts regardless of the type of carb....float bowl or diaphragm, does not matter.

Check fuel flow out of the fuel tank. Check for any inline fuel filters and or any part or location which may restrict or block fuel flow. Check the vent hole in the fuel cap.

Not always but sometimes, it is possible to reinstall the existing parts and the engine will run fine. Not all the time but some of the times. Trail and error method.

New carb rebuild parts may be required. However, in a pinch or on days when part stores are closed, this method may work. If not, during week days parts can be obtained from local shops.

Added benefit. Attempting a repair today will be an opportunity to R&R the carb in advance of a repair with new carb parts.

Practice does make perfect....

Old 03-30-03, 12:51 PM
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Thumbs up Always the Basics :)

Well, I say it in my automotive forum, I'll say it here, "Check the Basics first".

I dumped out the old gas in this machine, gapped and cleaned the plug and primed the machine. During this time, my uncle went into the backyard to get something.

He came back up front with a smile from ear to ear . He said, "I thought someone else was putzing with a lawn mower, as I came closer to the house, I realized it was this machine. You're a lifesaver".

One running 3.5 HP B&S 20" Rally/Frigidaire/AYP lawnmower.

Thanks to all....
Old 03-30-03, 03:47 PM
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Thumbs up Happy Camper Success Story

PSSST...Hey Joe

You missed out one other of the basics.

The fun and joys... of:

"Taking a small engine carb all apart."...

Then puting it all back together with the same used parts...

No problem. Engine fixed. No parts needed and cheap labor.

What a deal!

Your uncle should be very....HAPPY....LOL...


Old 03-31-03, 06:05 AM
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Yes, he's happy. The local place wanted 85 bucks plus for a tuneup and they probably would have done the same thing I did .

He's still smiling ear to ear bragging to his friends and our relatives. LOL.

It's a good feeling to help someone out!

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