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Rope Pull Starter Problem


Visser's Avatar
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04-01-03, 10:15 PM   #1  
Pull start cord doesn't grab anything

Hello, this seems like it would be an easy fix, anybody have an idea?

I have a Craftsman 6.0 walk behind lawnmower that has developed a problem with the pull start cord not "grabbing" anything. I bought it used and have no owners manual to reference and can't seem to find one very easily through Sears or Craftsman. When you yank on the starter cord it doesn't engage the cup underneath, except maybe once every fifty pulls, but retracts just fine. I took the cover off to find that there are these two metal "ears" that come out to grab the cup that turns the engine. Nothing appears to be broken or missing, but it isn't obvious as to how the ears would come out of the plastic to grab anything. I assumed that it was a matter of oiling or lubing the moving parts, but that didn't help at all. It looks like a quick pull of the starter cord might force the ears out via cntrifigal force, but as I pull the cord while the piece is in my hand I can see that the ears are not coming out. They don't feel as though they are binding and seemed lubed enough. Anyone know anything about this type of starter assembly, or where I can get a manual?

Appreciate any thoughts on the matter.

Visser

 
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04-01-03, 11:01 PM   #2  
Hello Visser!

There is a roll-pin that is pressed through the center of the hub with the metal ears that holds it to the housing. Lay the housing upside down (opposite of how it would be when mounted on the mower) on a flat hard surface and tap this pin enough to tighten it a little....not too much. This should increase the friction on the metal disk that engages the clutch dogs.

Let us know if this helps.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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04-02-03, 04:06 AM   #3  
buttlint
Vissar,

A couple of questions:

Is there a label or patch in the center, top of the starter? If so peel it off.

Under that label, is there a white plastic clip? It looks like a little white plastic square.

If those 2 things are true, that little white plastic clip can be removed and replaced with a steel spring clip. (retaining wedge is the offical name) I dont have the part # in my head, but a tecumseh dealer should know it.

If none of the above is true, wad this up into a tight little ball and throw it in the trash. If what cheese or I said didnt work, post your engine numbers and we can go from there. 'lint.

PS> See page 38 of tecumseh 4-cycle service manual, available at CPDonline.
PSS. The part # is 590760.


Last edited by buttlint; 04-02-03 at 03:38 PM.
 
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04-02-03, 07:07 PM   #4  
Cheese, 'lint,

Thanks for getting back to me so quickly! I tried to reply to you guys from another computer earlier today, but my reply didn't post for some reason. Just wanted to let you know that you guys got me fixed!!

'lint you called it exactly. I can now see how that little plastic piece was causing the problem. I'll get the steel spring clip from a tecumseh dealer.

Thanks much!!! I'm mowin' again!

 
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04-03-03, 07:11 AM   #5  
Joe_F
You don't mention which engine or model # you have (however, I see you have fixed the machine, bravo!) but you can plug your model # on www.sears.com and then "parts" and get an exploded view of all parts on the machine.

Based on your description, I believe we are dealing with a model series "917" AYP mower (American Yard Products). AYP makes the unit for Sears if I have guessed right.

FYI: AYP/Poulan/Electrolux charges $5.00 for manuals, but I got lucky and e-mailed someone there and they faxed me the manuals free of charge.

I asked for two for my blower and trimmer, we'll see if they send the two mower ones I need free of charge too .

 
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04-03-03, 07:42 PM   #6  
Tcumcman
Rewind Starters

GOOD WORK, Buttlint !!! The metal retainer clip if OFTEN a
"QUICK FIX" with those. However, let me add for everyone's
benefit and time savings....These rewinds have gone thru
(3) changes in recent years. They began assembled with a
metal press in rollpin as the retainer. Then went to the plastic
starter dogs retainer held in place by that plastic wedge that
we saw in this one. Then they replaced the plastic wedge with
the metal one (590760), and NOW....MANY of the replacements
are BACK TO the press-in rollpins....AGAIN. I hate to admit it,
but Tecumseh has apparently SUCCUMBED to the "BUY IT
CHEAPEST" bug, and these starters are being bought from
overseas suppliers. If you run across ANY OF THESE assembled
with the pressed-in rollpin....DO YOURSELF A FAVOR, and just
REPLACE IT with an inexpensive replacement such as 590737
for $24.00. You just CANNOT expend the labor time needed
to repair these vs. replace them in this manner. It'll save you
MUCH $$$$'s in the long-run.

Tcumcman

 
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04-05-03, 05:03 PM   #7  
Won't start...kill switch or ignition maybe??

Hey all , thanks very much for the help.

Tcumcman, I was able to locate the steel clip replacement part, ($2.16, can't beat that), and think I'll try to get the 590737 replacement you recommend. Makes good sense, I don't have the time to keep changing that dern clip every time it causes the problem.

Have a new issue, (little did I know), if anyone can help. Mower won't start. Ran great last season, hadn't used it yet this year due to the pull rope delimma that you all got me through. Has fuel to carb, has oil, does not have spark to the new plug i put in. Before I suspect ignition, I know I should check that kill device, but I'm clueless about how it works. (I ordered a manual, but don't have it yet).

Craftsman 6.0 hp walk behind mower. Model 917.387301.

There is a green wire from what I think is the ignition coil, located on the flywheel, that goes up under the flywheel on the side of the engine. Looks like it may have something to do with the kill switch device, as it is near it.

I'd appreciate any thoughts.

Thanks,

Visser

 
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04-05-03, 05:49 PM   #8  
Have you tried a new plug? If you still have no spark, go to the kill switch on the side of the engine where the cable connects to it. Hold the handle down as if you were about to start the engine and note the piece that moves on the side of the engine. Manually move that piece a little farther in the same direction that the cable moved it. Then check for spark. If you still have none, disconnect the kill wire and check. Let us know what you find.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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04-05-03, 06:47 PM   #9  
Tcumcman
No Spark

Visser,

The flywheel braking system is a brake pad assy that moves
in and out as you pull up and release the bar handle. When
you release the handle to STOP the mower, the brake pad
assy touches a small wire connected to a stop terminal which
is connected by that green wire to the coil. Over time, this
stop switch and brake system get rusty, and often will
continue to touch, even when the handle is released. The
stop cable also can be the culprit if it gets damaged, bent,
or otherwise doesn't allow the brake assy to make the same
amount of travel distance. If you disconnect the green wire
from the back of the coil, and you still have no fire....then
you've probably got a bad coil. Tecumseh has FEW problems
with coils, so check it all out before replacing the most expensive
part...the coil.

Tcumcman

 
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04-06-03, 06:56 PM   #10  
That did it!!

Thanks a bunch everyone!

I disconnected the green wire at the coil, saw that it was getting spark to the plug, and she fired right up. Looks like its the kill switch. Do have to remove the flywheel to replace it?

Visser

 
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04-06-03, 07:27 PM   #11  
Tcumcman
Stopswitch Replacement

Visser,

The stopswitch is part of the brake assy UNDER the
flywheel. Stopswitch is part # 610973. The one that's
under there may be OK. Remember, it's just the travel
of the brake mechanism that may only be the trouble.
When you're under there, just BE SURE the wire terminal
on the stopswitch is being CLEARED when you pull up
the flywheel brake handle up on the mower handle.

Tcumcman

 
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04-06-03, 10:22 PM   #12  
That's what i am referring to...the piece on the side of the engine...if your handlebar is not pulling it far enough, it won't disengage contact with the kill switch. The switch is a little bare wire that touches the arm on the blade brake when it is disengaged. If your cable is stretched, brake/kill mechanism is rusty or sticking, or bent, it will cause this problem. Most likely the handlebar cable is just not pulling it far enough. (that's why I suggested manually moving it a little farther to see if you have spark).


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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04-06-03, 11:03 PM   #13  
Fixed now!!!

Thanks again Tcumcman and Cheese for responding so quickly! I adjusted the travel on the cable to fix the problem. Mowere functioning as it should!

Hey Cheese, now that I can see how the gadget works I realize why you advised holding the handle down and looking at the travel on the side of the engine. Without a manual, I was afraid to take the bracket off and since I could not see behind it, I didn't want to do something that I'd regret later. I opted to just pull the green wire to see if that was the problem, knowing I could then ask you all if it was okay to take the bracket off, or if I had to pull the flywheel to get to the switch. I couldn't see if the cable was pulling the device far enough when the handle was down as it is hidden behind the bracket. It all makes sense now that I know what I know.

Thanks, again for all the help. all is well now!

Visser

 
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04-07-03, 08:34 PM   #14  
Good job! Glad we could help you get it going!


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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