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1980 Brigs&stratton Starting Prob


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04-07-03, 09:47 PM   #1  
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1980 Brigs&stratton Starting Prob

8HP. I TRIED TO TAKE THE CARB APART TO CLEAN IT OUT BUT THERE WAS A BRASS TUBE WITH A WITE BALL LOOKING THING ON THE END THAT WAS STUCK PREVENTING THE TOP OF THE CARB COMING APART AND DIDN'T WANT TO FORCE ANY THING. SO I UNSCREWED THE MIXTURE SCREWS SPRAY CARB CLEAN THROUGH BOTH OF THEM. I SPRAYED THOUGH THE SCREW ON THE BOTTOM AND IT SHOT THOUGH THE SRCREW ON THE TOP AND VISE VERSA. I PUT IT BACK ON THE THE ENGINE WITH SAME RESULT A TIRED ARM, CARBURETOR LEAKED FUEL THROUGH A BOTTOM BOLT AND IT DIDNT FIRE. THERE IS SPARK CAUSE I ACCIDENTLY SHOCKED MYSELF. SO I POURED SOME GAS IN THE SPARK PLUG HOLE AND HAND TURNED IT A FEW TIMES PUT THE PLUG IN AND IT FIRED ON THE FIRST PULL AND RAN FOR ABOUT 10 SECONDS. THE MOTOR HASN'T RAN FOR ABOUT TEN YEARS AND ALL THE GAS WAS DRAINED. WHAT NEXT COULD AN INTAKE VALVE BE STUCK AFTER READING OTHER POST I WAS THINKING CARBURETOR BUT NOT SURE ANYMORE, I MEAN THE CARB LOOKED PRETTY SIMPLE I DIDNT SEE FLOATS OR ANYTHING IT APPEARS TO OPERATE ON VACCUM WITH A BUTTERFLY REGULATING EVERY THING. IM A NEWBE AND THIS IS MY FIRST SMALL ENGINE

 
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04-08-03, 12:09 AM   #2  
Well, it sounds like you are right on track. It is a fuel related problem. I would take the carburetor totally apart. I am not familiar with the little white ball you described but that brass tube usually has several small holes in it and they all have to be cleaned very well along with the needle valves. You might want to try soaking the end of a q-tip with carb cleaner and clean the seat that the needle valve sits against. A carburetor has a lot of little holes and they all need to be very clean for the engine to run perfectly. Some carburetors have a diaghram instead of a float. The diaghram consists usually of one thin and very flexible rubber gasket and one or more small springs. If you remove this gasket, it shouldn't be stretched or stiff or cracked. It should be able to flex very easily. Also be sure to see where the springs go and make sure to put them back exactly where they were. If you can remove all the rubber pieces in the carburetor, you might want to try soaking the carb in a small bucket of carb cleaner if you can. They sell it in cans and it is very strong. It would get everywhere. However that rubber gasket will probably be stiff and brittle which would make it necessary to buy a carb kit. It would probably cost about $10 and it would contain all the replacable internal parts you would need. Also, it is common practice to screw the needle valves in all the way then back them out 1 1/2 to 2 turns. This will give you a good enough mixture so you will be able to start the engine and adjust the needle vavles to make the engine run smoother. Good luck.

 
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04-08-03, 05:28 PM   #3  
Agreed...it is a carburetor problem. Rebuild the carb. I don't know what white ball you are referring to either. What brand and model# engine do you have?


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

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04-09-03, 05:16 PM   #4  
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CARB

THANKS FOR THE REPLY GUYS!!! THE NUMBERS ARE MODEL 190402, TYPE 1859, TRIM 01- CODE 8001031. THERE IS DEFINETLY AT THE END OF THAT BRASS TUBE. SHOULDN'T THE TOP PART OF THE CARB COME OF EASILY CAUSE IT SEEMS STUCK!!! I PLAN ON REBUILDING SAT BUT FIRST I WANT TO TAKE IT TOTALY APART BUT IM AFRAID OF BREAKING THAT BRASS TUBE AND I DONT SEE A NEW ONE IN THE KIT. WHAT DO YA THINK. THANKS AGAIN FELLAS.

 
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04-09-03, 10:10 PM   #5  
According to your numbers, you have a horizontal two-piece flo-jet carburetor. The brass tube should just unscrew from the underside of the carb. There is a needle valve that unscrews under the bowl, then the nut that it went through comes off, then you can get to the nozzle (brass tube) with a good flathead screwdriver. Be careful, if it is tight, you may mess up the slot for the screwdriver if it slips. Don't let the screwdriver scrape the threads as it turns. Once you get the nozzle out, the carb will come apart easily. There is not supposed to be a white ball to my knowledge. Maybe something has oozed out the end of the nozzle and dried, forming this white "ball".

Let us know how you make out!


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

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04-10-03, 05:19 PM   #6  
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cheese your the man

The little white ball was a hoax, I mean to say that it was bad lighting looking down in the carb theres just a radius in the house and with the right light you see a white ball.. dang hahahaha!!! the carb is completely apart and now soaking. There really isnt much to rebuild, i mean the to mixture screws, two gaskets, needle and seat on the float, nothing else. interesting. cheese where were you able to get reference of my numbers i would like to have access to that info as well. i am a machinist so if there are any machining questions that need to be answered bring em on. thanks again. GOD SPEED.

 
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04-10-03, 07:30 PM   #7  
Briggs and Stratton engine service manuals have this breakdown of the model#s. Many general publications, like Chiltons, etc... have the breakdown in their small engines manuals as well.

Easy carb to rebuild...make sure all the tiny orfices in the nozzle are clear. I must admit you had me scratching my head with the "white ball" thing, lol .


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

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04-12-03, 09:27 PM   #8  
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HOW SWEET IT IS

BOUGHT THE CARB KIT "MY OPINION OVER PRICED AT 20.00" BUT PUT ALL BACK TOGETHER AND IT FLOODED THEN GAVE IT A LITTLE TAP ON THE BOWL AND PULLED AGAIN. PURRRRR IT WAS RUNNING. ALTHOUGH AFTER IT WAS ALL WARMED UP AND RUNNING LIKE A TOP IT I REVED HER UP THEN A LITTLE MOORE AND WHEN I RELEASED THE THROTTLE I GOT NICE BACKFIRES OUT OF THE MUFFLER. THE MOTOR IS BECNCHED AND THE THROTTLE IS CONTROLS BY MY HAND SO THERE IS NOT A LOAD ON THE MOTOR. IM THINKING ITS A LITTLE RICH BUT MY ADJUSTMENTS HAVE ALL ENDED UP WITH BACKFIRES EVEN WHEN I THINK IT IS DIALED IN "THROTTLE RESPONSE THAT IS". DO YOU KNOW WHAT THE FACTORY ADJUSTMENTS ARE ON BOTH THE MIXTURE SCREWS OR WHAT IT SHOULD BE AND WHICH ONE CONTROLS WHICH. THANKS AGAIN AND GOD SPEED!!!

 
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04-13-03, 09:48 PM   #9  
The low speed mixture screw is near the top of the carb, coming out the side with the head towards the air cleaner. Screw it in until it lightly bottoms out, then back it out 1 3/4 turns. The high speed mixture screw is coming out of the bottom of the bowl at an angle. Run the engine at full throttle and turn this screw in until it begins to run bad or die, then back it out while counting the turns until it begins to run bad or sputter, then turn it back in half as many turns. You may fine tune from here if necessary. If your muffler is gutted, it will backfire on decel.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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