Pulling Flywheel

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  #1  
Old 04-12-03, 08:00 AM
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Pulling Flywheel

I have a 1967 Briggs and stratton cast iron 16 hp single cylinder engine sittting on the bench that has to have the crankshaft pulled and turned. The flywheel has never been off this engine.
I have never done a rebuild on an engine this size before, and since the puller with the hammer isnt going well at all, I thought some heat applied to the shaft/flywheel area might speed things up. (the flywheel is cast iron also.) Comments? Advice?
 
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  #2  
Old 04-12-03, 09:35 AM
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The way I have always done it is to have one person with a screwdriver on each side prying up and then another person hit with a hammer on the end of the crankshaft. Just make sure the nut is backed out to where it is even with the end of the crankshart. It you do decide to heat up the flywheel, be careful. If the crankshaft gets hot and heats up the seal, you will be forced to change a leaking seal. Good luck.
 
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Old 04-13-03, 09:53 PM
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A flywheel puller would be the best and safest bet. If you have two threaded holes in the flywheel, a harmonic balancer puller, rented for free at autozone, will pull it off nicely. Hitting with a hammer on the end of the crank can very easily mess up the threads on the shaft and the nut. Do not use heat. The flywheel turns thousands of times per minute, and if it were to develop a hairline crack, it could explode while the engine is running, sending heavy chunks of cast iron shrapnel everywhere.
 
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Old 04-14-03, 01:40 PM
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Flywheel Puller

Well, as usual, the stuff I get into rewrites the textbooks. The Harmonic Balancer puller bolt (one side ) broke before the flywheel came loose. (IT is still on there, wont budge.) I did not heat it enough to crack it (I dont think) and the threads and nut are a long way from the end of the crankshaft itself. I actually tapped on the end of the puller, not the crankshaft itself. I also noticed that the top half of the key is sheared off and dragged over a 45 degree angle from its original keyed position. Perhaps this is complicating things...
 
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Old 04-14-03, 09:41 PM
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Good grief! A puller gets 'em off nearly every time. The sheared key is what has wedged the flywheel on so tight. You may have to pry under both sides at the same time with the puller attatched. You will need to remove the broken bolt and use grade 8 bolts. If the broken end of the bolt is left in, it will throw the flywheel out of balance. When you use the puller, make sure both bolts are in evenly and at least 3/4" of the threads are threaded into the flywheel. They really need to be even so that the puller does not bind, and use one of the bolts to pull instead of both.
 
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Old 04-15-03, 06:10 PM
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Flywheel Puller

Got the broken end of the bolt out ok. have a new set of bolts in the puller but they are probably not grade 8 . The new set is in in evenly and I am using the puller's big bolt to put the pressure on. It just wont pop. The stamping says NOT to pry on the ring gear. Perhaps a way to push out the broken key can be found. Thanks for your help!
 
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Old 04-15-03, 06:34 PM
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About the only thing to do is put lots of penetrating oil and keep trying. Hope you get it.
 
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Old 04-15-03, 08:15 PM
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That's all you can do... Use a couple of pieces of 1X4 wood under opposite sides of the flywheel if you can fit them under it to pry upwards while you have plenty of pressure on the puller. Use a brass hammer to tap around the radius of the flywheel while the puller is tight. It will come off, you just have to use enough persuasion. The key cannot come out until the flywheel is off. Keep us posted!
 
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Old 04-16-03, 01:55 PM
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Flywheel Puller

Maybe some appropriately placed C-4 will do it. Then I will go play golf instead of rebuilding this @#$$%% Briggs.....
 
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Old 04-16-03, 09:01 PM
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LOL...I know the feeling well! Stay with it, it will come off if you keep working with it.
 
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