Oil Drain Plug Location

Old 05-15-03, 04:34 PM
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Oil Plug Drain Location [Briggs 4Hp]

Model #22415X8B
Briggs 4 HP

Hey, I recently picked up a 4HP Briggs Lawnmower from my roommate's father. It needed a new plug, and some fresh gas. Now, the oil is black and is overfilled [and was also run on an incline multiple times]. I just replaced the plug, but it seems that the plug is fouled again [I'd imagine that oil seeped into there and fouled the plug]. Also, when the motor is running it runs a little erratically. But, I'm guessing this is due to the stale fuel [and nasty oil].

Anyways, the motor conked out on me an hour ago, and I haven't been able to start it. I was operating on an incline a few times [I didn't know any better than, but now I do ]. I tried cleaning the plug with carb cleaner, but it's still not starting. I'm having my roommate pick me up a new plug [SP-34] tonight. Until then, I'm wondering if this is the problem? Could the stale fuel and dirty oil [and overfill] cause the sputtering problem?

Furthermore, I want to change the oil, where's the drain plug for it? Is the Briggs 4HP under the model number I gave above, a 4 cycle or 2 cycle motor? Can I run regular car motor oil in there?

Thanks [I know, a lot of questions, but if you can answer them, it'd be much appreciated].
Old 05-15-03, 07:27 PM
green jacket's Avatar
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Here is the manual for this model:
Please find out if this is 2 or 4 cycle. It is most likely 4.

Without seeing the engine, I will tell you b&S engines typically have a dipstick on better models, but only a fill plug on cheap models. I am not familiar with Tec. engines (junk).
Look at the base of the engine, there should be a screw-in plastic plug on the same side as the muffler (normally, older models), it will have two nubs to grip to turn it.
Some machines also have a drain plug on the bottom,
scrape the caked-on grass etc. off the underside, and perhhaps there will be a drainplug. Some drain plugs have a square head.

As to the sputtering:
The carb and tank need to be cleaned out.
The air filter comes off, and then the carb assebly is fastened on with several screws/bolts. Do this at your own risk. You will need carb cleaner. Replace dirty filter also. In the bottom of the tank there will be accumulated junk, and perhaps water too.
Beware of the adjustment screws for how it runs.
If there is a throttle cable, carefully remove it first. If the choke is automatic, it will have a governer fastened to it, or a wire, that goes under the engine cover.

Hope this helps.
Old 05-15-03, 11:59 PM
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Good advice. I want to add a couple of things. There should be a drain plug on the underside of the engine that you use a 3/8" ratchet to remove. Also, the carburetor diaphragm will most likely need to be replaced to correct the surging. If you remove the carb, you will need to install a new one anyway.

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