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Ignition Problem


boman's Avatar
Member

Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 487

06-08-03, 06:31 AM   #1  
briggs (no fire)

Model - 190702
Type - 0143-01
Code - 7004281

If I am right, this is a 1970 8 hp rear engine B/S.

Problem no fire.

I have disconnected the kill wire from the coil. Still no fire.
Thinking I need to get to the points to see if they are corroded, stuck, etc. May not be the best way, but I have usually removed flywheels with pry bar and a rap on the flywheel. This mower has not been run in a few years and flywheel wants to be stubborn. Anyway, would the points be preventing it from firing at all, or is the coil bad? Guess I could go over it real good and find what, if any safety switches are on it.

tx

 
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Join Date: Feb 1998
Posts: 10,440
CAL

06-08-03, 08:35 AM   #2  
Hello boman

Chances are good the condenser is defective. Check the safety switches first. Any one of them, depending on how many are used in the years model and you can find first.

External replacement ignition modules are available at local small engine repairs shops. Installing the correct one for that engine will eliminate the need to pull the flywheel and replace the parts.

Check the ignition wire to the spark plug and replace the existing spark plug with a new one. Doing so will ensure you are not replacing unneeded parts which will not resolve the problem.

The basics of engine ignition testing and checking should always be done before assuming hard to get, difficult to replace and or costly parts are the causes of engine ignition problems, etc.

The other resident small engine service and repair professionals may offer additional suggestions, advice & help.

Regards & Good Luck.
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cheese's Avatar
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06-09-03, 12:00 AM   #3  
Hi Boman!

Haven't seen you in a while!

I don't know if it is a 1970 or not, but it is an 8hp vertical shaft engine. I don't mess with points anymore if I don't have to. I just install a coil with electronic ignition and be done with it...clip the wires to the points and leave 'em in there. The newer coils fit in directly with no modification, and the system is much more reliable and accurate. If you really want to pull the flywheel, go to autozone and rent a harmonic balancer puller or steering wheel puller and use the threaded bolt holes in the flywheel to pull it.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
boman's Avatar
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Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 487

06-09-03, 04:13 AM   #4  
Haven't seen you in a while!

It has been a while. Summer is here, and I may be dropping in more often. I don't seem to retain as much info as I used to . May be the 'Jack of many, master of none' syndrome in my case. Been busy trying to get our store going. The weather as not helped a lot here.
Anyway, from your replies and other posts I have read, I think the electronic module is the way to go with this old mower rather than go to the trouble of removing the flywheel and taking a chance of damaging the crankshaft.
Tx

 
cheese's Avatar
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06-09-03, 10:51 PM   #5  
Anytime...let us know how it goes!

BTW: The aftermarket modules are not as good as a whole coil/armature assembly. I have known the "bolt-on" modules to be less sensitive, or harder to trigger, causing harder starts. I would reccomend replacing the whole coil...a used one would be fine, since they rarely go bad. (one with the module built in).


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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