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lawn mower problems


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06-18-03, 04:34 PM   #1  
Craftsman lawn mower problems

Hello,

My Craftsman lawn mower began to run with difficulty about 2 months ago. Now it does not start. I have replaced the air filter, spark plug, and cleaned out the carb to the best of my ability.

The model number for this engine is 143.956000 it was purchased from Sears in 2000 and I am assuming it is a Tecumseh engine ( I do not see B & S sticker anywhere on the mower)

I am almost certain it is either the carb itself or the priming bulb to send gas to the intake that is not working properly. When I cleaned out the carb the first time it cranked once after spraying carb cleaner.

The carb float and needle mechanism seems to be working fine. However, I am not sure if the Red needle that goes into the priming bulb part is operating.

I rarely performed PM's on this engine so this will be my last effort before getting a new mower. I would dearly appreciate any help.

Joey

 
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06-18-03, 05:15 PM   #2  
Joe_F
Umm, you can UPS me that mower to Joe_F, address is:...

LOL.

If it fires wit fuel/Gumout in the chamber, you have a fuel problem. Make sure the air filter isn't restricted. Take the float bowl and screw off. Carefully clean out the float bowl screw---you'll find a small passage hole through the threads. This is critical it's spotless.

Clean the carb, fill it with fresh gas, prime and see if it fires up. If not, carburetor rebuild time.

Or you could give it to me free of charge! LOL.

FYI: My Craftsman mowers are 1992 and 1988 vintage respectively, the latter my neighbor threw out in 1998 when he jammed the starter cord and gave up on it. Guess who uses that same machine every day and fixed it for the cost of a spark plug, oil, lubrication, unjamming the rope and less than an hour's time ?

 
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06-18-03, 10:01 PM   #3  
Hello Joey!

Remove the bowl screw. Look at the sides of it. There are 3 holes in the side...2 are pretty visible near the base of the screw, opposite of each other. The 3rd is very small and closer to the top. There is also a 4th hole down in the center of the screw. Make sure all of these holes are clear and open. You may want to use a piece of wire and some spray carb cleaner. Wear safety glasses when using the carb cleaner. This should get your engine running again.

Let us know how it goes!


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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06-19-03, 01:52 PM   #4  
Nothing??

Thanks for the help guys,

I removed the bolt at the bottom of the carb but did not see any holes on the bolt, I sprayed and cleaned out the carb to no avail.

One question I have is there is a single red plastic needle that sits in the middle of the carb and insert into the priming bulb intake area. Should this red needle be by itself in the carb? How deep should it sit in the carb? Am I missing some sort of spring for the needle??

Thanks,
Joey

 
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06-19-03, 05:29 PM   #5  
Joe_F
Look closer. The bolt's holes are VERY tiny. That is why just a spec of dirt will stop it.

Spray the bolt down the center. You should see some carb cleaner sqirt out the side between the threads. That would indicate the holes are clear. Use a pin to clean it out. If in doubt, buy a new screw, only a couple of bucks at any small engine dealer. Now give it a whirl.

 
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06-19-03, 06:03 PM   #6  
Unless the engine says Briggs and Stratton, you have the holes I mentioned. They must be clear or your mower will not run. The red tube you see is not causing your problem.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

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06-20-03, 06:13 AM   #7  
Function of bolt

Thanks a bunch Joe and Cheese,


Just wondering?? How tight should I fasten this bolt once cleaned, also what function does this bowl bolt have for flow of fuel into the engine?

Thanks again,

Joey

 
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06-20-03, 12:59 PM   #8  
Joe_F
Make sure the round bowl gasket is in good shape. If not, replace it.

Snug the bolt. No need to barrel down on it. A couple turns at most with the wrench and it will be tight enough.

Fuel flows through that hole, hence it is critical it is clean. Let us know what happens when you clean this bolt and get it back together. We'll go from there.

 
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06-20-03, 07:46 PM   #9  
That bolt, aside from holding the bowl on, contains the orifices that supply the fuel nozzle with fuel. If they are stopped up, the fuel nozzle cannot draw fuel from the bowl.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

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06-21-03, 09:47 AM   #10  
No bolt holes

Hello joe and cheese,


I have taken the whole carb apart again. I SWEAR there are no holes in the bolt, I work in the medical field with products .014" in diameter and have great eyesight. There are absolutely no holes on this bolt. I'm not sure if I have a different model craftsman or what.
Anyway, once I took the bolt off inside the bottom of the bowl is a spring with a small plastic red cyclinder and rubber washer past that. I throughly cleaned the bolt, red cyclinder, spring, and washer and replaced them; still no luck. Something interesting is when I prime the engine with the bulb I noticed a small amount of gas leak around the bolt.
Now the rubber gasket around the red fuel pin is kind of broken up. I can't find that gasket, should I just try to do without it??
I will attach a sketch of my carb so you can get a better idea of what I'm up against.

Thanks,
Joey

 
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06-21-03, 06:51 PM   #11  
Tcumcman
Carb Woes

Boy....This is making me weak !! Joey, the bowl nut they've
been referring to is the brass nut that holds the float bowl
on. This isn't a plastic bowl by chance is it ?? The "red tube"
you see if the main nozzle, or emulsion tube. There is an O-ring
on the top of the tube, and the one you can see. BOTH are
SAME part number, 632547. The one on the top groove of that
red tube will stick to the bottomside of the carb venturi, and you
have to "fish it outa there" with a wire clip or something to hook
it with. You need to replace the bowl O-ring, 631028, and the
gasket around the bowl nut, if it's leaking as you say. When you
push the primer, you're pushing air into the float bowl, which
pushes a shot of fuel up into the carb throat, hopefully. This is
the "prime of fuel" that's supposed to start the engine. As the
guys are saying, the bowl nut IS THE MAIN FUEL JET in your
carb, and IT MUST HAVE fuel orifices for the gas to get through
it to the idle circuit and the main fuel nozzle. BE SURE to LOOK
AGAIN, and you'll see a very tiny hole in the upper tapered side
of the nut, and down in the center of the nut, also. Make sure
ALL THOSE ARE CLEAN and liquid can pass through them. Red
needle ?? Have no idea what you're talking about ???

Tcumcman

 
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06-22-03, 06:09 PM   #12  
Thanks

Yes I don't know the carb terminology that's why I used, "red plastic needle". Also, that's why I'm using this site and trying to save about $45.00/hr. in service fees.

I did get the darn mower to work, however. I got inpatient and removed the gasket around the bottom of the fuel nozzle, and the inner gasket next to the spring at the bottom of the carb. It ran fast but I adjusted the throttle and it's running fine.

I guess I can keep running it without these gaskets. I'll make some attempts to find them through Sears, and local dealers. Usually this is time consuming, otherwise I'll keep regular maintance this time and hope for the best.

Thanks for all the help everyone!
Joey

 
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06-23-03, 12:01 AM   #13  
I'm wondering if we aren't missing something here. I have no idea what red needle you could be describing. The only thing I can think of that should be red would be the nozzle. It is basically a tube, maybe 1/8" OD, with a couple of holes near one end in the sides, and a flange at one end, and another approximately midway, where the O rings seat. I also don't know of any spring in this carb, so maybe we are talking about 2 different things here. Is this a Tecumseh engine? We never found out.

Some of these carbs had a red tube that extended into the carb throat, and out past the neck of the carb into the air filter. This is just for the bowl vent if I recall correctly, but should have no bearing on the primer operation.

Replace the missing gaskets..you don't want to be pushing a fireball around the yard, lol.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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06-23-03, 03:57 AM   #14  
Tcumcman
Carb ID ???

Cheese, I wonder same ?? I asked if this was a plastic bowled
carb, and when he started talking about a "spring"....I was
really confused then ?? And how can you REMOVE the gaskets
and make this work ?? I'm beginning to feel...."My chain is
being jerked" ???

Tcumcman

 
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06-23-03, 05:17 AM   #15  
Joe_F
This model # engine comes up at Sears.com.

Original poster: You can view an exploded view of your engine at Sears.com and then click "parts" at the left, entering your full engine or mower model #.

Here is the parts lists for it. Perhaps T-man can identify the type of carburetor by the part # (callout #380 on this list). It appears NOT to be a float type based on the illustration. That is where the confusion came in I think.

Here's the parts list. Because of the way I had to cut and paste it, the part # is separated by a space and then the callout # from the illustration :

Model ENGINE - 143956000 (REPLACEMENT PARTS)

Part Description Part
Number Diagram
Reference
Number Quantity
CYLINDER (INCL. 2, 10, 20 AND 125) 36146 1

DOWEL PIN 27652 2

BREATHER ELEMENT 36059 6

BREATHER COVER AND GASKET 36005A 7

SCREW, 10-24 X 3/4" 590568 9

BREATHER VALVE BODY 36002 10

CHECK VALVE 36003 11

BREATHER TUBE 36001 12

FLAT WASHER 28277 14

GOVERNOR ROD, MACHINED 36006 15

GOVERNOR LEVER 36008 16

GOVERNOR LEVER CLAMP 31335 17

SCREW, 8-32 X 5/16" 650548 18

GOVERNOR SPRING 36103 19

OIL SEAL 36010 20

BLOWER HOUSING BAFFLE ASSEMBLY (INCL. 195) 36011 25

SCREW, 1/4-20 X 5/8" 650802 26

CRANKSHAFT 36111 30

PISTON, PIN, RING SET, STANDARD 36073 40

PISTON, PIN, RING SET, .010 OS 36074 40A

PISTON, PIN, RING SET, .020 OS 36075 40B

PISTON AND PIN ASSEMBLY, STANDARD (INCL. 43) 36070 41

PISTON AND PIN ASSEMBLY, .010 OS (INCL. 43) 36071 41A

PISTON AND PIN ASSEMBLY, .020 OS (INCL. 43) 36072 41B

RING SET, STANDARD 36076 42

RING SET, .010 OS 36077 42A

RING SET, .020 OS 36078 42B

PISTON PIN RETAINING RING 20381 43

CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLY (INCL. 46) 36023A 45

CONNECTING ROD BOLT 32610A 46

VALVE LIFTER 36030 48

CAMSHAFT (MCR) 36031 50

OIL PUMP ASSEMBLY 29914 52

MOUNTING FLANGE GASKET 36032A 69

MOUNTING FLANGE (INCL. 72 THRU 85) 36033A 70

OIL DRAIN PLUG 30572 72

DRAIN PLUG GASKET 28833 73

OIL SEAL 36010 75

GOVERNOR SHAFT 30574A 80

WASHER 30590A 81

GOVERNOR GEAR ASSEMBLY (INCL. 81) 30591 82

GOVERNOR SPOOL 36057 83

IDLER GEAR 36034 85

SCREW, 1/4-20 X 1-9/16" 650924 86

FLYWHEEL KEY 611154 89

FLYWHEEL 611155 90

FLYWHEEL FAN 611156 91

BELLEVILLE WASHER 650815 92

FLYWHEEL NUT 650816 93

REPAIR MANUAL 695578 None

SOLID STATE IGNITION 34443A 100

SPARK PLUG COVER 610118 101

SCREW, TORX T-15, 10-24 X 1" 650814 103

GROUND WIRE 36054 110

CYLINDER HEAD GASKET 36119 119

CYLINDER HEAD 36120 120

EXHAUST VALVE, STANDARD (INCL. 151) 36471 125

INTAKE VALVE, STANDARD (INCL. 151) 29314B 126

INTAKE VALVE, 1/32" OS 29315C 126A

SCREW, 5/16-18 X 1-1/2" 6021A 130

RESISTOR SPARK PLUG (RJ19LM) 35395 135

VALVE SPRING 31672 150

LOWER VALVE SPRING CAP 31673 151

VALVE SPRING BOX GASKET 27234A 169

VALVE SPRING BOX COVER 32755 172

SCREW, 10-24 X 9/16" 30200 174

CARBURETOR MOUNTING STUD 650925 177

GOVERNOR LINK 36009 186

CARBURETOR MOUNTING STUD 36035 187

BRAKE LEVER ASSEMBLY 36013 190

BRAKE CONTROL LEVER 36122 191

BRAKE CONTROL LEVER LINK 36016 192

BRAKE SPRING 36015 193

RETAINING RING 36014 194

TERMINAL ASSEMBLY 610973 195

BRAKE CONTROL LEVER SPRING 36017 198

BRAKE LEVER BUSHING 36018 199

COMPRESSION SPRING 36482 202

COMPRESSION SPRING 36482 203

SCREW, 5/40 X 7/16" 650549 204

SCREW, 6-32 X 21/32" 650777 205

CONTROL KNOB 36051 215

CARBURETOR TO AIR CLEANER GASKET 36048 239

SCREW, 10-32 X 2-3/32" 650899 243

AIR CLEANER FILTER 36046 245

AIR CLEANER COVER 36154 250

LOCK NUT, 1/4-20 650928 251

CONTROL PLATE 36110 255

SCREW, 8-32 X 21/64" 650983 256

BLOWER HOUSING 36153 260

SCREW, 1/4-20 X 1/2" 650737 261

SCREW, 1/4-20 X 11/16 " 650929 262

STARTER GRILL 36156 263A

MUFFLER 36107 275

LOCKING PLATE 36043 276

SCREW, 5/16-18 X 2-11/32" 650927 276

STARTER CUP 34449A 285

SCREW, 8-32 X 21/64" 650923 287

FUEL LINE 34357 290

FUEL LINE CLAMP 26460 292

U-TYPE NUT CLIP 650900 299

FUEL TANK (INCL. 301) 36066 300

FUEL CAP ASSEMBLY 35355 301

OIL FILL TUBE 36063 305

O-RING 35499 307

FILL TUBE CLIP 36040 308

DIPSTICK 36064 310

AIR CLEANER BODY (INCL. 239, 299 AND 350) 36044A 340

SCREW, 10-32 X 35/64" 28763 346A

SCREW, 10-32 X 27/32" 650898 347

PRIMER 36045 350

CONTROL DECAL 36155 370B

LUBRICATION DECAL 36261 370A

CARBURETOR (INCL. 187 AND 239) 632671 380

REWIND STARTER (THIS ENGINE COULD HAVE BEEN BUILT WITH 590637 STARTER. REFER TO THE DESIGN OF THE AIR INTAKE LOUVERS FOR PART IDENTIFICATION. INDIVIDUAL STARTER PARTS DO NOT INTERCHANGE) 590702 390

GASKET SET (INCL. 7, 69, 119, 169, 187 AND 239) 36121A 400

SPARK ARRESTOR KIT (INCL. 417) (OPTIONAL) 36085 416

SCREW, 8-32 X 3/8" (OPTIONAL) 650760 417





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Please review our Privacy Policy, Terms and Conditions and Children's Privacy Policy.

 
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06-23-03, 02:39 PM   #16  
Tcumcman
Carb Woes

Thanks, Joe !! Should have gone to the Sears.com site to
start with and could have solved this dilemma quickly....
You NEED a new bowl kit....Part # 730235B. This will include
ALL the lower end of your carb (new float, inlet needle, fuel
metering jet, O-rings, main nozzle, etc.). Remove the fuel
line, removed the clip holding the bowl onto the aluminum
upper body, install new bowl kit, clip on, use new intake
gasket being careful to place on carb where ALL passages
are clear/open. The gasket has a peel-off face to help with
this. A new primer bulb also comes with the kit, but you don't
always have to use it. To remove old one, use a small pocket
screwdriver, pry out the locking ring, put new primer in the
cavity, then locking ring, and use a 3/4 socket to lightly tap
the locking ring into place with a small hammer. This SHOULD
SOLVE the problems with this carb. BE SURE heat shield and
blockside gasket is REPLACED if you've removed the metal
part of the carb at any time.

Tcumcman

 
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06-23-03, 07:35 PM   #17  
Terminology confusion

Thanks everyone,

I think the main problem here was both my lack of carb/small engine knowledge, and terrible terminology. Also I did not know that I could pick up a complete carb set from Sears, of course I didn't have a lot of time to search for one. This weekend when I finally have some free time I will definetly go pick up this carb set for my mower.

You guys are great here at DIY.com, I really appreciate all the help and amount of patience with a medical field guru like myself. Any questions on cardiovascular disease? Angioplasty? Stents? Feel free to give me a buzz..

Joey

 
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06-23-03, 08:51 PM   #18  
Joe_F
Original poster:

No need to return to Sears. The #s quoted are Tecumseh #s, the company who makes the engine. Sears parts lists use the vendor's part #s, so if you can figure out the source (143 modeled products are Tecumseh made), you can go to any small engine shop stocking Tecumseh and pick up the parts.

Less money and more likely to be in stock than with Sears .

 
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06-23-03, 09:58 PM   #19  
Great!

I was wondering what was screwy about this ordeal. A different carb from the usual. I'm glad there is some sense to this now, hehe. Joe is right, You can pick this kit up at most any decent small engine repair shop. This kit is not terribly common in comparison to other kits, so it may still have to be ordered if the repair shop keeps a limited inventory.

Let us know how it goes!

Sorry there was such a mixup...Tecumseh push mower engines typically have the metal bowl style carb, and we are so used to the bowl nut troubles we mentioned, that it was the first thing we thought of.


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God bless!

 
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05-21-08, 06:09 PM   #20  
Blind Leading the Blind

I have the same carb and the same mower. Carb is one piece aluminum with a plastic float bowl. A local mower shop I consulted gave me some good tips. This carb WARPS. Then it sucks air where it shouldn't and doesn't send any fuel to the engine. Thus, no start.
Remove the carb and remove the float bowl. Get yourself some fine sandpaper-like 320 grit. Put the sandpaper on a flat surface. You are going to sand the surface of the carb that mates with the float bowl. Put the carb on the sandpaper and move it in a circular motion. Check the surface you are sanding. Is some of it not contacting the sandpaper? Yep. Thought so. Mine was high in the middle. Had to sand it for 10 minutes until I got the high spot out of it. Once you get it flat clean it thoroughly and put a NEW FLOAT BOWL kit on it.
When I was done my mower started on the first pull. Wouldn't start AT ALL before this procedure. Good luck!

 
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