rider mower question

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  #1  
Old 07-07-03, 01:44 PM
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Snapper rider mower question

Hi all, I have the rider mower just like the one here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=43562

I can not find a model on my mower. Does anybody recognize this mower and it's model number?

Also... The disk (that attaches to the bottom of the crankshaft) does not seem to be a balanced fit on the shaft. It's pretty wobbly when at full roar. There is a lot of space between the crankshaft and the bore in the center of the disk.

Do you think this is because another 11 HP Briggs and Stratton was bolted to the body?

I'm interested in finding on-line info about this mower so I can figure out the brakes. Mine has 2 settings: free roll and locked up.

I'm also having a hard time getting the thing to run smoothly at "work" speed (blade going). The carb seems very clean. 9I am used to working on cars.. you'd think this would be easier.

Is there a way to adjust the governor to provide a smoother run, or does my problem likely lie elsewhere? It seems to fire great. It just revs up and down instead of trying to find a steady run speed.

And who ever designed that body so that it is almost impossible to reach up and bolt the motor to the body needs to send me some band-aids.

Thanks to any who can help. (Can't believe how much that person is asking for that mower! I paid $40 for mine)
 
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  #2  
Old 07-07-03, 01:53 PM
Joe_F
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I forget who owns Snapper, but have you tried to call them and ask?? I want to say Toro owns them, but I can't recall who it is...
 
  #3  
Old 07-07-03, 02:00 PM
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Joe! You're here too.

I have not tried to call them, but I have found out a little more by going through ebay listings.

I guess these aren't as rare as I thought (with their cheap tranny and drivetrain).

Still can't figure out why it's running like that though. Could it be just from sitting so long? It seems like it could use a slight ignition timing advance too, but I am not used to "larger" one cylinder engines. Perhaps it's supposed to be that rough and doggy.

Thanks for the help.
 
  #4  
Old 07-07-03, 04:45 PM
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I've had the mower out fora few laps, and I've run in to a couple of issues.

First off... the choke starts to close before I'm happy with the RPM. It does an OK job, but I'd like higher rpm for a better mow.

Is there a choke adjustment where I could get a higher throttle before it starts to choke?

Also... the hodge-podge adapt a Briggs and Stratton engine does not match the pulley / disk assembly. The 2 allen screws do not hold the pulley well enough (as I found out half way through the mow... bet that left a nice mark around the crank).

There is a keyway in the crank (I forget the name of the pin that goes in there). There is no pin, but what looks like 2 pieces of "pin" were pounded between the crank and the bore of the pulley / disk assembly to hold it before. (No wonder I had to rent a puller to get that pully / disk assembly off)

Am I working on a lost cause? I'm not asking for miracle help... just wonder if there is a place to go and get (perhaps) an adapter to make this pully and disk assembly fit the crankshaft that on the engine that came with my mower. I would appreciate help from anybody, especially if you have done any sort of work on these mowers (converting a motor and the such).

I like the sound of the one big blade. It doesn't even blink for those sticks.
 
  #5  
Old 07-07-03, 06:24 PM
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Snapper owns snapper....imagine that, lol!

It sounds like you have a lean running engine because of the surging you described. Try backing out the high speed screw, the one that screws up under the bowl, about 1/2 turn or so.

If you don't have a key in the crankshaft, it will not hold the pulley. It sounds like you have a worn out bore on the pulley (drive disk), and/or an improper crankshaft diameter.
 
  #6  
Old 07-08-03, 09:35 AM
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It sounds like you have it right. There is quite a gap between the pulley and the crank. I'm more inclined to think there's either an insert missing or it's just the wrong crankshaft for that mower.

I was thinking about drilling through the crank and bolting on the pulley. But with the big ol' belt in there I don't want anything to catch and rip up the belt.

I know this sounds really bad..... but would it work to make a flat spot on the side of the crank for the screws to ride in? How about drilling a countersink type hole that the screw can go in to?

I know I'm grasping.... but those coulple of successful laps made me want to leave the push mower alone. I really like sitting on my lazy butt.

Thank you for the idea about correcting the surging.

I usually buy a repair manual for all of the cars I buy. Looks like it's time for such a manual for the mower.

Just gotta find one! (I saw one on ebay).
 
  #7  
Old 07-08-03, 09:51 PM
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I think you will run the risk of ruining a good mower by drilling, grinding, etc..., and possibly making it unsafe. Snapper riding mower engines have a 1"diameter crankshaft. Measure yours. If it is 1" diameter, then the bore in the pulley is worn/wallowed out from slipping. This can be replaced easily and inexpensively, and you'll have the problem solved, never to worry about again. Doing it any other way will not last, and then if you try to go back to the correct way, it will be too late...the crankshaft will be ruined. Snapper makes a really dependable mower, so it's probably worth spending 20 bucks or so on it to do it right.
 
  #8  
Old 07-09-03, 02:30 PM
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Thank you very much for the advice.

I believe I shall heed it.

I was guessing a lot more than $20 to replace that pulley.

I will also measure the crank. It seems to be pretty much 1".

Thanks again.
 
  #9  
Old 07-09-03, 06:25 PM
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The entire dirve disk assembly is probably more than $20, but the piece that is worn out can actually be unscrewed from the disk and replaced. I imagine it would be in the $20 range.
 
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