Replacing flange gasket

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  #1  
Old 07-10-03, 09:09 AM
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Re: Replace mounting flange gasket

My Tecumseh Vector VLV55 is leaking a lot of oil out of where the cylinder assembly and mounting flange (where the gasket is). I've got Chilton's small engine here and looking at the exploded view it seems there could be problems (ie. a pin falling out). Changing the head gasket is pretty staight-forward, but is there anything outside of draining the oil that i should be on the look-out for?

Thanks in Advance
 
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  #2  
Old 07-10-03, 07:16 PM
Tcumcman
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Flange Gasket Replacement

Quark,

The "pins" you refer to are just alignment pins. If they should
fall out/come out when removing the oil pan/flange....just put
'em back. Gasket number is Tec # 36032A, and is a "sheet
type" gasket for better oil control, and NOT your standard
ring-type gasket. If you want to replace the PTO oil seal
while doing this....part # 36010. Look for any oil leaking
from/around the top mounted breather cover UNDER the
flywheel. It's a kidney shaped metal plate seals by a cork
gasket and 3 bolts. This is an area where oil has been known
to leak from on these. Part # 36005A, which is plate AND
new gasket.

Tcumcman
 
  #3  
Old 07-11-03, 09:04 AM
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Wow...with advise like that, how can U go wrong? I got all three replacement parts, the breather cover/gasket had to be ordered...but they are on the way. Unfortunately i've got two new problems.

1) i can't get the blade adapter off the crank shaft. I WD-40'd it and tried to tap it (not as to knock it and bend the crank shaft), but it won't budge. I've never heard of a puller for one of those. Do i have to build my own rig for that task?

2) the oil leak is 100% the flange gasket. Half of it disappeared, not melted or mangled...just disappeared. I assume this is from overheating. Also there is charring around that area, which is on the underside of the cylinder cooling fins. What could be a possible cause? I'd rather not have to break my MTD apart after ever mow, although it would be good practice.
 
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Old 07-11-03, 10:24 PM
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Hello Quark!

Tcumcman gave you some good info!

The blade adapter can be pulled off by inserting the center blade bolt almost all the way...about 1/4" from fully threaded in, the use a harmonic balancer puller (can be rented for free at autozone) and 2 bolts to pull the adapter loose. Once you get it pulled all the way to the center blade bolt, remove the puller and the bolt and the adapter should pull off fairly easily by hand.

The "missing" section of gasket is probably rubbed away because of loose bolts. The bolts that hold the sump cover on can get loose sometimes, especially if the mower vibrates a lot due to a bent blade or crankshaft. That allows the block and the sump cover to shift and rub while the engine is running, until it wears the gasket away. When you replace the gasket, use some blue locktite on the sump cover bolts to keep them from vibrating out again.

Hope that helps!
 
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Old 07-12-03, 09:06 AM
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cheese,

The other day I had the replace this gasket in my 12 HP OHV Tecumseh. After I got it apart I was surprised to find the missing part of the gasket inside the crankcase. I only change my oil once a year so I was also happy to see how clean it was inside.
It was no problem to replace but you need to be sure you don't damage the governor gear and the oil pump rod must be in the right place when it is reassembled.
 
  #6  
Old 07-13-03, 09:29 AM
mikejmerritt
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I would like to add to the base/sump gasket replacement thoughts. Once the bolts are torqued properly (torqueing is VERY important here, though many good jobs have been done without a torque wrench...lucky!!!) check the end play of the crank by grasping it firmly and moving it in and out quickly. You MUST hear a little noise from the crank moving a few thousandths. If not, the engine will wear excessively in the rod/crank journal area. If you have no end play in the crank you must go to the thicker gasket. If you really have to much play, say a 16th of an inch, go to the thinner gasket. These setting are really done with a dial caliper at the shop but assuring you have some end play is SO important and just takes seconds to check. Best of luck.....Mike
 

Last edited by mikejmerritt; 07-13-03 at 05:04 PM.
  #7  
Old 07-13-03, 03:27 PM
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Ok...small engines has some major advisors. You guys have helped more than a little. Thanks.

I got the blade adapter off. But I did have to build my own rig. Nothing to it. Cheese, the harmonic balancer puller is nothing but a larger steering wheel puller (I got one of those). There are no threads to pull with it. And autozone where i live try to charge you more to rent it, than to buy it (don't ask).

This is for the search engine. What i did is measured the distance from the blade adapter to the mount. From the local hardware store, I got 3 sets of screws. One pair that could fit under initially, the other two for when the adapter started to move. Instead of pulling it, I pushed it with loosening a nut, instead of tighting (the reverse concept of a puller). Then when the screw is no longer inside the adapter holes, i just inserted one of the others to use as a guide.

I'm sure U guys have done that in the past and wanted me to figure it out. But i did a search for flange gasket (what it's called in the book) replace, there was nothing, hopefully this will help a do-it-yourself-er in the future.

Again, you guys are great, but hopefully my mower will like chomping grass more than being doctored by me.

Cheers
 
  #8  
Old 07-13-03, 10:56 PM
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Glad you got it going! The harmonic balancer or steering wheel puller (I have used both) would have worked just fine, even though there are no threads. You just put a nut on the ends of the puller bolts. (once you put them through the blade mounting holes). Just so you know in case you have to do it again sometime...hopefully not, lol .

"And autozone where i live try to charge you more to rent it, than to buy it (don't ask). "

I know you said don't ask...but if I'm going to tell people they can rent a tool for free at autozone, I guess I should find out if maybe all autozones don't do this rental program. The ones I have dealt with charge you the price of the tool, in case you don't bring it back, and then they refund the $$ to you 100% when you bring it back. Does your autozone run things differently?
 
  #9  
Old 07-14-03, 05:24 PM
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Sorry cheese, bud. When i called Autozone, the guy i talked to said it's $15 to buy the harmonic balancer and $30 to rent it. No B.S.'in, so I just went elsewhere to see what a harmonic balancer is, then decided to use the other rig.
 
  #10  
Old 07-14-03, 09:37 PM
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Man! I bet they don't rent very much stuff, lol!
 
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