Engine Rebuilding

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  #1  
Old 07-23-03, 08:29 PM
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Rebuilding a B&S 11HP?

Hi all,

Things are going rather well with my riders. I've learned quite a bit about them (even bidding on a service manual).

The small rear-engine Snapper hi-vac has a 1979 (!!!) 11 HP B&S engine on it that is going strong. I replaced the crankshaft keys and tightened down the setscrews with a tougher tool than before. It's mowed 3 lawns so far quite well. The mower does not seem to be that old. I wonder if it's the original engine.


The larger rider (I think it says LT11 on the hood... perhaps LT16) has a B&S 11 HP horizontal shaft motor. It really knocks like mad. The engine on this mower is a 1983 (but the mower looks much more worn than the rear-engine one).

How would I go about repairing this engine before it fails catastrophically? I've priced new engines and about fainted. I could buy a new rider for that much! However, I have not noticed a rebuild kit for these engines. Can't I just fix this one or do I have to replace "major" components (like crank and connecting rod). Or do I just have to replace the motor?

Can't wait for the service manual.... The LT11 doesn't have brakes either!

Thanks to anybody who can help.
 
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  #2  
Old 07-23-03, 11:17 PM
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Hello Jason!

Depending on how worn out the engine is, it can be repaired. A new connecting rod, piston, rings and seals would probably be a must. The crankshaft should be checked for wear, and replaced if needed, but then you get into $$. A valve job would also be beneficial, if not necessary. A new 11hp horizontal shaft electric start Briggs engine can be had for about $550.00.
 
  #3  
Old 07-24-03, 09:35 AM
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Thank you!

So the crank might be able to be used with a new connecting rod and piston? Should I use plasti-gauge?

What general price range do you think I should expect for:

valves

piston / connecting rod

crankshaft

$500 and some change is much better than the prices I was seeing out of the B&S catalog at the local tractor supply company store.

But still.... $500 for a 20 year old rider..... Ok... time for some homemade shims.
 
  #4  
Old 07-24-03, 12:33 PM
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I got the prices for the parts at briggs&stratton.com.

Zoiks! Those crnkshafts aren't cheap.

But I see they sell oversized connecting rods. Is this the equivalent of oversized rod bearings? So if I have a worn crank I might be able to get away with using an oversized connecting rod?

What a weird looking connecting rod. Looks like plasti-gauge is what I'm going to have to go with.

Thank you. You have been a good help.
 
  #5  
Old 07-24-03, 05:49 PM
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My Two Cents

Hello Jason

The engine noise you hear may or may not be serious. You will have to tear down the engine and look for excessive wear in major parts of the internals.

The noise could be rod knock, piston slap, bearing noise and or any one or more of several problems. Any one of them may not be cost effective to repair.

There could be machining, grinding and or boring required to restore surfaces and bring tolorances back to specifications, etc. Jobing out this portion of the work greatly increases the costs and time required.

Replacing the engine may be the best route to take. I am not sure the two retail stores in links provided below still sell brand new replacement engines. Might be worth a look. <If the links even work....???...hope so.>

http://www.NorthernTool.com

http://www.harborfrieght.com

Potential sources for manuals and or replacement parts:

BILLIOU'S 1-209-784-4102

L.S.THORPE CO. INC. 1-617-776-2445

FOLEY-BELSAW COMPANY 1-816-483-4200

Disclaimer:
I do not have any affiliations nor vested interests in any of these retail engine or parts suppliers. Provided solely to assist with locating parts.

Regards & Good Luck.
Web Site Host & Small Engine Forum Moderator. "Accurate Power Equipment." Small Engine Diagnostics Services & Repair.
 
  #6  
Old 07-24-03, 06:25 PM
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Thank you sharp.

I have been able to locate a parts list for my mower engines on line, but nothing like clearance specs or torque specs.

Hopefully the service manual offered on ebay will have these.

Sounds like I better clear off the ol' workbench for this. And find me a micrometer and feeler gauges.... Oh... and the manual. (Or specs)


Should I use a 3/8" drive torque wrench? lol I've never even seen one.
 
  #7  
Old 07-24-03, 08:18 PM
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Yes, a 3/8" torque wrench should be used, they are available at sears. The Briggs repair manual should tell you the minimum diameters for the crankshaft journals, and max dia. for the main bearings. If the crank is scored up or worn too far, having it machined and using an oversized rod would do the trick. Also check the bore size, cut the ridge if needed, and hone it properly if it is a cast iron sleeved engine. If it is aluminum, don't hone it. Make sure it has no scratches of significance.
 
  #8  
Old 07-25-03, 06:24 AM
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Hello: Jason

If you do not already have engine rebuilding tools, you will need an assortment of them to accomplish the tasks involved. The parts sources I offered are two of the many possible.

I am not familar with what is offered for sale on ebay. If you think what is currently offered on that site good. Check out what may be available on our web site too. The link to the diy "Company Store" is in the right column on the forums page.

Good Luck with the engine rebuilding task. Keep the forum readers posted on the progress and final results. The readers might like to know all the details involved in engine rebuilding.

Be sure to use the reply button only, so we can keep the replies you offer remain in this same thread. I edited the title to generalize the subject into what it's titled as currently.

Engine Rebuilding.

Doing so attracts more readers and more views. The basic engine rebuilding tasks & methods involved are the same. Thus more readers will learn from the topic regardless of which brand of engine they have.

Thanks,
Sharp Advice
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  #9  
Old 07-25-03, 10:17 AM
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Thanks for all the help, folks. I have to admit I've never actually done a proper rebuild. I've done several motor swaps. I've changed main and rod bearings and replaced a piston.

But as far as measuring all the clearances and such.... Sounds like I started on the right project (as opposed to, say, my '94 caravan 3.8)

So I'd actually take a micrometer measurement of the crank and the bore in the connecting rod? No plasti-gauge? yipee! Hopefully I'm not worn beyond what they can compensate for in oversized parts.

I will keep you all posted on how things go with this project.

So far, I have to clear the room in my garage... I have remnants from my last project in there still (swapping a 2.2 from an '87 Charger to an '87 Caravan).

One thing's for certain.... getting the motor out of a riding mower is a piece of cake compared to an automobile. My rear engine rider requires the removal of 4 bolts, 2 electrical connections, and the fuel line. I have a feeling this LT11 (I checked... it's not the LT16) will be just a little more involved. There's bracing that the rear engine rider doesn't have. It's funny that my rear engine rider has a motor that is 4 years older but it runs perfectly.

Thanks again... I'll keep you posted.
 
  #10  
Old 07-25-03, 12:55 PM
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Originally posted by Sharp Advice
The link to the diy "Company Store" is in the right column on the forums page.
I'm looking for this link, but can't find it.
 
  #11  
Old 07-25-03, 05:26 PM
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Are you looking at the main forums page, (not the small engines page, but the community forums page)?

Oversized parts are not used to compensate for wear...or shouldn't be, lol. If a part is worn enough to accomodate an oversize part, then machine work needs to be done, to at least the next oversized part. Example: If the bore measures .010" over the limit, it needs to be bored out to at least .020" over, because the .010" over will not be uniform, and a .010" over piston will sieze in it. Same with the crankshaft journal.
 
  #12  
Old 07-25-03, 06:13 PM
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I see. So machine work is almost guarenteed. Phooey! lol



And yes, I'm looking at the main forum home page.
 
  #13  
Old 07-25-03, 09:27 PM
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Jason.

The main page <home page> is not the same as the forum page.

The short cut link to the home page is above. Scroll up.

The link is to the left of the words Our Moderators.

It says DoItYourself.com Home Page

or use this link:
http://www.doityourself.com

The forums page is: http://forum.doityourself.com

The company store is the worded ad: {It's also a link.}
We're Building a Hardware Superstore.....

Almost everything on this web site is a link to another page.

A highly active web site to everywhere on the site....
 
  #14  
Old 07-29-03, 12:47 PM
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Hah! I found this place a year ago by doing a web-search for automotive discussion forums.

I've never even been to the home page before right now. (Hey! Thanks!)

I'm looking through the "go shopping" link now. I came back again to see exactly where I was supposed to go. I'll have to look for the company store.

Heh... I forgot what I was supposed to be looking for too.... rebuilding tools or replacment parts? lol

I bet it's rebuilding tools.
 
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