Snowblower question

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  #1  
Old 09-22-03, 10:01 PM
Y Vlad
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Snowblower question

Hi, guys!

I stumbled across this forum as I was looking for info on the net on how to adjust a carburator on the Tecumseh snowblower engine.

Bought it used. From what I've been told, it's 5 or 6 hp, overhead valve engine. 2 screws on the side of the carb and one screw on the bottom.

Will appreciate any advice. This is Canada and I don't want to shovel any more! Please, help!!!

Thanks!
 
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  #2  
Old 09-22-03, 11:11 PM
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Hello Y Vlad!

Welcome the the small engines forum!

The highest screw on the side of the top of the carb is the idle speed screw. Adjust it after all other adjustments are made. Adjust it to set the low idle speed.

The screw that screws into the side of the carb is the idle mixture screw. Run the engine at idle speed, then turn it clockwise until it lightly bottoms out, then back it out 1 1/2 to 2 full turns.

The screw under the carb is the high speed mixture screw. Run the engine at full speed and turn it clockwise (tightening) until the engine begins to surge, sputter, and/or die out. Then, turn it counter clockwise again. As you turn it counterclockwise, count the # of turn it takes to make it begin to stumble and spit/surge again. Then divide this # in half and turn it clockwise that # of turns.

This should get the engine at a good base point, and it may or may not require fine tuning.

Hope this helps...let us know if we can help more!
 
  #3  
Old 09-30-03, 06:33 AM
Y Vlad
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Thumbs up

Thank you for info, jast what i needed, it is grate it actualy runs and runs well!!!!!!!! Thank you again!!!
 
  #4  
Old 09-30-03, 11:39 PM
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Anytime!

Thanks for letting us know how it went!
 
  #5  
Old 10-07-03, 07:25 AM
madsam
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good advice cheese. i was looking for the same info for the 7 hp tecumseh's we're working on. you seem to simplify the basics on it for us. thanks.

mine are terribly dirty carbs and need cleaning real bad, and will most likely appreciate a rebuild. can you direct me to the correct approach to rebuilding these carbs? so far, we bought a can of chem-dip to clean the parts, but we haven't bought any rebuilding kits til we get more info.

why do some have a small spacer between the intake on the engine and the carb, and some have a much longer intake? (a few inches in length)

how do i know which carbs will work on the same engine? i ask this because we may want to use parts we are taking off other broken engines, and (for instance) we have some carbs that look the same, but might have a different number on the side. are they the same, but different builds or dates?
does it matter?
does it matter if i use a small spacer, or none at all? or if i add a large one?

i know i have a lot of questions, but i am new to small engines. i am not new to disassembling things and repairing things... we have a bunch of snow throwers and would like to get a few to run for now. we bought a lot of 19 for 100 dollars, and , of course, some are junk, and some may work, so we are trying to part some out to fix others, if possible.
 
  #6  
Old 10-08-03, 12:26 AM
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Hello madsam!

First of all, try to keep all parts with the original machine they came from, not mismatching them. You will find that some parts are interchangeable, and some are not. There are so many different variations that I couldn't begin to tell you what will interchange with what, but generally, if the carb connects the same way and is off of a like-size HP engine, then it will normally work. As for the spacers...there could be a number of reasons why they are there, and of different sizes. Go with what is original if you can...then only trial and error will tell you which ones you can change, and which ones you can't.

Since you will be cleaning so many carbs, I suggest buying a set of torch tip cleaners. They are under $5.00 at any welding supply store, or large hardware store. They are invaluable for carb cleaning (clearing clogged orfices and jets). When you soak the carb in chemdip, make sure no rubber or plastic parts are still on the carb. Also, the needle seat is pushed up into the fuel inlet where the needle makes contact. Pluck it out...and make sure it all comes out (sometimes pieces get stuck in there and get overlooked). Do this before soaking the carb. Then when you reinstall a new seat, install it with the ridge toward the carb body, and the bevel towards the needle. Make sure it gets pushed in all the way and seats well. The blunt end of a 3/16" drill bit works well to push it in there with. (3/16" if I remember right).
 
  #7  
Old 10-08-03, 12:45 AM
madsam
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thanks cheese. we will be getting some rebuilding kits this weekend, and hopefully get at least 2 of the engines running. we have at least 2 that need carb work and should run fine. we'll see how it goes.
 
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