Gas pouring out of air filter HELP!

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  #1  
Old 10-12-03, 09:44 AM
rtk409
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Gas pouring out of air filter HELP!

I have a Briggs and Stratton 10HP OHV Horizontal Shaft engine. It is used for a Coleman Generator I have.

I have always been able to start the engine easily, but while I was camping, it got rained on, and once I returned to camp, it never started again.

Once I found the time, I removed the fuel bowl, and emptied the water out fo it, as well as removed the gas tank, and cleaned it out. I also noticed the spark plug was fouled, and replaced it. I changed the oil (it was low), and checked the flywheel. The flywheel was badly rusted, so I cleaned it up, and put everything back together.

The engine fired right to life on the first pull, and ran great, but once I shut it off, gas came pouring out of the air filter element and housing assembly. The only way to stop it is to shut the main gas line off at the tank.

Did I get something messed up with the float assembly/spring? What would cause this?

Any help would be greatlt appreciated, I am going on a big dry camping trip in 10 days, and need to get her up and running!
 
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  #2  
Old 10-12-03, 10:10 AM
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I think you need to rebuild your careberator. See what cheese has to say about this also.
 
  #3  
Old 10-12-03, 10:39 AM
rtk409
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The engine is only 6 months old, and it did not have this problem of gas pouring out after the first time I removed the bowl to drain the water. But now, 2 days later, I all of a sudden have this problem. That was why I was led to believe that perhaps I mis-installed something. Wasn't sure if there was a common mistake, or if there really was a problem with the carburetor.

Thanks, this site has been a god send to me many times! And I'm sure to others out there also, keep up the great info!!!
 
  #4  
Old 10-12-03, 12:52 PM
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What I would do is I would open the carb up completely and describe what you see to Cheese. Cheese will reply to your message at the end of the day.
 
  #5  
Old 10-12-03, 03:38 PM
mikejmerritt
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rtk409, you have a sticking float, hole in the float therefore a float that won't float...LOL or a faulty needle and/or seat. If your float seems to be happening clean the needle tip and seat with carb cleaner on a Q-Tip. You can check the action of the float by removing the bowl, hold up GENTLY on the float and open the gas flow and watch. It shouldn't leak past the needle. When you let the float go fuel should flow and holding up again should stop it pronto.

CAUTION!!! Make certain you don't have a crankcase full of gas. If you do, by the time you iron out your carb problems you'll have a nice knock if your lucky or a seized engine if not.....Mike
 
  #6  
Old 10-12-03, 03:42 PM
rtk409
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Opened carb back up - everything looks to be in perfect condition. The only thing I am questioning is how the fuel transfer tube (I guess that is the term for it, it is the plastic piece that the float is hinged to)... anyway, not sure of how it fits onto the nozzle, and mates to the carb itself. There is a protruding notch, and it only seems to slide and "mate flush" in one position only.

Double checked, and reassembled, still got fuel flowing freely the minute I open the main on the tank.

Ironic, thought I had the non-starting issue clobbered, and got this problem as I was done op checking it and ready to store it away for use! UUgh!
 
  #7  
Old 10-12-03, 03:49 PM
rtk409
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Mike,

Good advice - thank you. I am in the process of a self-teach job here, and had a sense of false security until this problem arose!

I printed the parts list, and have been studying it compared to my engine. It shows the needle - now the first time I removed the bowl, I did not even see that I had one, and certainly do not have one installed now. I have the float, and the piece it is hinged to. I slid that onto the shaft (nozzle?), and installed a spring onto the bottom of that, then installed the bowl. Maybe that is the problem, there was a needle, and I (bone head move possibly!) lost it.

I will go out right now and try your advice. One other question, how do I ensure I have no fuel in the crankcase?

By the way, my wife thanks you guys - for getting her heat and lights for the camping trip! lol
 
  #8  
Old 10-12-03, 06:23 PM
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This is the most replies I have ever seen in one given day! LOL

It is very simple...Remove the spark plug and make sure you hold the wire completely away from sparkplug hole and start the engine, doing so will spray the fuel out of there.

You should rebuild your carb. Any repair shop has a kit for 10.00 dollars.
 
  #9  
Old 10-12-03, 06:35 PM
mikejmerritt
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On the gas in the oil, pull the dip stick and smell the oil. It should smell like motor oil, not gas, and it might show to much oil on the stick. It could show little or no extra oil on the stick but the oil could be thinned 25%with gas. If there is any doubt you must change the oil. Gas in the oil is a very common happening and leads to many seized engines. Closing the main on the tank will prevent further gas from flowing while you work this out.

On this carb you will have a bowl nut, a bowl and gasket, float, needle and float retainer pin. The needle will fit into the float and when the needle is in place in the inlet hole on the carb the pin will be pushed through the float holes holding it to the carb body. Once this far do the test I mention above to check for leaking. If you don't have all of the parts I mention fuel cannot be controlled......Mike
 
  #10  
Old 10-12-03, 07:20 PM
rtk409
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I cannot thank you guys enough! The float was stuck, I had gotten some grit into the hinge pin somewhere along the way.

I was unsure of the oil be contaminated with fuel, so I drained and refilled.

Runs like a champ with no fuel leaking anywhere. As always, you guys rule!!!!
 
  #11  
Old 10-12-03, 07:25 PM
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Excellent! Problem solved before I even got in here to check the posts! Glad you got it going. Mike is the man, huh?!
 
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