Welcome to the DoItYourself Forums!

To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. It's free!

rings for aluminum cylinder?


hyper7's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

10-27-03, 04:23 PM   #1  
hyper7
rings for aluminum cylinder?

I have an 8 hp briggs and stratton engine it has an aluminum cylinder. Is it nessasary to use chrome rings?
Thanks

 
Sponsored Links
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 16,574
GA

10-27-03, 09:14 PM   #2  
Hello hyper7!

Necessary...no, but I would reccomend it. Chrome rings generally do much better and control oil much longer in an aluminum cylinder engine.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
hyper7's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

10-28-03, 12:39 PM   #3  
hyper7
thanks cheese Im going to use chrome rings. I have two more questions. First I know I don't have to hone an aluminum cylinder but this one has some scratches that look like the might mess up new rings so would it be a good idea to lightly hone the cylinder?
Second can you give me any recomendations on carb settings for breakin.
Thanks, Im use to working with small 2 stroke engines

 
mower17's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 365

10-28-03, 04:40 PM   #4  
NEVER hone an aluminium cylinder. The grit from the stones will get stuck in the pores of the metal and ruin the new rings. I have heard of people just installing the new chrome rings and letting the chrome rings just wear the cylinder back into specs, but cheese will know if this is ok to do or not.

 
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 16,574
GA

10-28-03, 10:00 PM   #5  
I agree that you shouldn't ever hone an aluminum cylinder. The only time I would reccomend honing an aluminum cylinder is when the engine would not be good otherwise. If you do have to hone an aluminum cylinder, go easy on it. Honing aluminum can distort and wear it very fast. Use plenty of oil on the stones to suspend the metal and stone particles. Wipe it clean and then spray it off really well with carburetor cleaner, and rewipe it down with a well-oiled rag. This should clean it well enough for use. Chrome rings are hard enough to seat the cylinder even with some light scratching. (chrome rings make the cylinder seat to the rings, instead of the rings seating to the cylinder like regular rings do).

No need to make any special settings for break-in...just set it like you are ready to use it.

I like to break in my engines first for 10 minutes at half throttle, then a few at full, then mount it on the equipment and go use it under various loads and speeds.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
hyper7's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

10-29-03, 12:08 PM   #6  
hyper7
can you give me a base line setting for the carb cause I was messing with it when the engine started acting up and I later discovered it needed new rings.
Thanks I think I'll leave the cylinder alone the scratches aren't too bad

 
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 16,574
GA

10-29-03, 11:36 PM   #7  
I don't know what carb you have, but if it is an older model with the screw under the bowl, turn that screw about 3 turns out from lightly seated, and turn the screw on the top 2 turns out from lightly seated. This should get it running, and fine tune from there.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
hyper7's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

11-02-03, 12:26 PM   #8  
hyper7
thanks you guys have helped me alot. I got my parts yeaterday and It should be running by the end of the week

 
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 16,574
GA

11-02-03, 09:26 PM   #9  
Great! Let us know how it goes!


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
hyper7's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

11-16-03, 02:15 PM   #10  
hyper7
well its been going slow lately. I had to pull the tranny and put in new gaskets. Plus I've had alot of school work ect. Right now I havethe tranny back in I just have to mount the engine in the final position, set up the belt and break in the new rings. BTW this is in an old dynamark riding mower I took off the deck and ride it for fun

 
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 16,574
GA

11-16-03, 08:31 PM   #11  
Cool...let us know how it turns out!

BTW: If this old dynamark has the old H pattern shift transmission...3 speed with reverse, and cast iron axle housings, you can have some fun with it. This is one tough tranny and you can put a little pulley on the input shaft and get quite a bit of speed out of it. OR...you can put a very large pulley on it and gear the tractor down low enough to pull several vehicles...at one time. It's one tough tranny.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
hyper7's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

11-17-03, 03:50 PM   #12  
hyper7
I got everything together today and tried starting it. I'm having some problems though. First it isn't realy starting it just fires a few time than backfires due to compression. Also after a few trys it now makes a squeaking sound when I turn it slowly by hand. The sound seems to becoming from under the flywheel, I think it might be the top oil seal although I did replace it during the rebuild.

It does have the H shift transmission you mentioned I haven't messed with pulley sizes yet because I need a huge gear puller. The pulley on it now is the size of a dinner plate

 
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 16,574
GA

11-17-03, 10:26 PM   #13  
Check the air gap on the coil...it could be too close to the flywheel. Also, make sure the flywheel key didn't shear. The flywheel nut has to be really tight. (someone once said tighten it as tight as you can get it, then turn it one more time. LOL).


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
hyper7's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

11-18-03, 02:31 PM   #14  
hyper7
I checked the fly wheel key and its fine. I did get it running for a little longer but it was still missing on some strokes. This is what it did when I took it apart . I don't know if it matters but this engine no longer has the alternator under the flywheel (I jump start it any way).
Thanks again

 
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 16,574
GA

11-18-03, 06:25 PM   #15  
Does this engine have points? Did you set the valve clearances when you has it apart?


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
hyper7's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

11-19-03, 12:59 PM   #16  
hyper7
Yes it has points and they have been set correctly
I didn't touch the valves. I knew I should have but I guess I was too excited so I skipped it

 
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 16,574
GA

11-19-03, 10:53 PM   #17  
Sounds like you are describing valve clearance problems (hard starting, skipping & stumbling, backfiring). You don't have to tear the engine down to adjust them, just pull the valve cover/pcv valve and check the clearances. I bet you have zero clearance. To adjust, remove the head and remove the valves. Make sure you keep track of which spring goes to which valve. Grind a tad off the end of the stem (make sure you grind it square and flat) and insert it again and check clearance. Regrind if necessary until the right clearance is obtained. Be careful when grinding...we are only talking about thousandths of an inch here, and once you grind off too much, you can't add it back. Set the intake clearance to .005", and the exhaust to .010".


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
Search this Thread