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Ignition problem


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11-24-03, 02:26 PM   #1  
Hotrodder06
Ignition problem

[SIZE=4]5HP Briggs & Stratton engine will not start..i have taken the entire engine apart, oiled the gears,rod,crankshaft,valves, installed a new Armature (ignition coil) it has no bearings in it, and no points. Checked all the ground points for the switch; it shocks me when i touch it so i know it fires, and i'm spraying carb. cleaner into the combustion chamber, so i know it is getting the 3 required things to start, has good compression. Anyone that has an idea, please tell![/SIZE]

 
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11-24-03, 06:51 PM   #2  
Is the spark plug firing? If it is, then after you try starting the engine, you could remove the plug and see if it is wet with gas. If it isn't, then there is a fuel problem.

 
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11-24-03, 06:55 PM   #3  
Hotrodder06
well, i forgot that part earlier, i also bought a new spark plug for it too,(those are usually the problem), and i know i need to replace the fuel pump gasket but as i posted, i'm spraying carb. cleaner directly into the motor so i know it has something to start off of.

 
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11-24-03, 08:25 PM   #4  
Hello Aaron!

We need to be sure the plug is firing. A coil can shock you but not have enough juice to fire the plug. Check for spark. Does this engine have points?


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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11-25-03, 09:35 AM   #5  
Hotrodder06
That's true, but i have nothing to check how powerful the spark is and no the engine does not have any points, the motor is a 90'+ model, which briggs and Stratton put the electronic ignition on their motors. I'm trieng not to spend a whole lot of money, if i can get it to run then i'll sell the go-kart, and get a new one.

 
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11-25-03, 10:55 AM   #6  
If the spark plug is firing, then there is nothing wrong with the ignition. There's no need to see how strong the spark is, either there is one or there isn't. You should see a blue spark when testing the spark plug.

 
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11-25-03, 11:18 AM   #7  
Hotrodder06
what should i do then?

 
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11-25-03, 03:30 PM   #8  
If you have spark and it still won't start then there is a fuel problem. Will it even sputter if you pour gas into the intake or spray carb cleaner into the intake? When was the last time it ran? If it has been sitting for a while, then the carburetor is gummed up. If you ran it out of gas the last time you used it, then there could be water/trash in the carburetor.

 
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11-25-03, 04:07 PM   #9  
Hotrodder06
yes, i have a fuel blockage, i need to clean the carb. and get a new diaphram for the fuel pump, no i can't seem to get it to even sputter, it was running a year or two ago..it had gas in it then, and i need to drain it and soak the carb. in chem-dip to clean it out but it should sputter or something whether or not it is clogged. Also, i removed the muffler when it was last running so that i could get to the diaphram on the fuel pump inside the carb. but even still it ran with no exhaust.

 
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11-25-03, 04:13 PM   #10  
I am sorry I did not get to this even sooner. Normally I answer right away. Cheese and I would both tell you to put alittle gas in the spark plug and put it back on and try starting it again. If you do not even get a sputter, then you might need to get a new plug and try to start it again. It may be that all the problem is with a bad spark plug. Do this first and let us know how it goes.

 
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11-25-03, 07:34 PM   #11  
Did you actually see a spark? I want to be sure we eliminate the ignition system. Remove the spark plug, connect it to the plug wire, and lay the plug on a metal part of the engine so that the metal of the plug is touching metal on the engine. Then crank the engine while watching the plug. If it does not spark, you haven't got enough current to fire the plug. If it does spark, then we know the ignition coil is working.


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11-28-03, 08:58 AM   #12  
Hotrodder06
i tried putting in a different spark plug and got the same thing, no, i cannot see the spark, but i attached an ac/dc tester to the coil and when the motor was turnin, it showed to have a current. it shouldn't matter how big the spark is, eventually the carb. cleaner would evaporate and the spark would be enough to create fire. If i dont get it to go myself, i'll take it to one of 2 of the mechanics i know and trust and see if they can get it. One of them already offered to fix everything free of charge.

 
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11-28-03, 02:17 PM   #13  
needles
Heh,I had this same problem,it was getting everything it needed,but the coil didn't have the biggest spark. Every now and then,it'd spark good,but other than that it only did enough so you can feel alittle buzz when you shove your finger in the spark plug wire. Then I decided to gap the coil again,and to my surprise...I put the coil upside down. Oops. Check to see if yours is right side up. On the coil,it will say CYL SIDE,and SIDE UP. Some of them do,if not the side that should be up is the side that is covered the most. It's easy to tell. Bet thats the problem,only thing I can think of after all the stuff you said.

 
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11-28-03, 03:50 PM   #14  
Hotrodder06
well, the two coils we are talking about must be different. It has 2 arms on the sides that join at the coil itself, i've looked at other motors, and have noticed that all of them have the spark plug wire facing to cylinder and if i reverse it, it doesn't match the diagram, i'll try spacing the armature again when it warms up :-\ ..

 
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11-29-03, 11:59 PM   #15  
If you can't see a spark, then it will not run, no matter what you do. You MUST see a nice spark. Yes, it can show current on your tester, but that doesn't mean it will spark. The current has to be enough to bridge the plug gap. Coils with low output will still shock you, but not spark.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

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11-30-03, 06:26 AM   #16  
Hotrodder06
so do you think that i should gap the coil from the flywheel again or do you think that i have a problem with the new coil i ordered?

 
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11-30-03, 02:30 PM   #17  
needles
I don't know,either its still upside down or you have to gap it again. I use a piece of paper to gap it. Put a piece inbetween the flywheel and the coil (the arms that go on flywheel) then tighten it down,and take the paper out. You'll need to rip the paper out. Do that,and check the coil agian.

 
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11-30-03, 04:22 PM   #18  
Hotrodder06
well, i re-gaped it, fixed the recoil and got the new rope to go in, however; i think my problem is with the wires, the new wire that came with it has two wires coming off it and i think that the old wire is messed up so i'll try to figure out this new wireing thing and see if i can't re-wire the whole thing :-\

 
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11-30-03, 06:49 PM   #19  
Just make sure you do it right. There is a right and a wrong way to wire an engine!

 
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11-30-03, 09:40 PM   #20  
The gap between the flywheel and coil should be ten thousandths of an inch. Use a brass feeler gague to set it.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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12-01-03, 02:25 PM   #21  
needles
You may be grounding out the kill. What did you connect the wire coming off of the coil to?

 
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12-08-03, 02:07 PM   #22  
Hotrodder06
well guys, i took the new wire and re-wired the entire engine...i think i have a problem with the rear kill switch. I fixed my re-coil and put a new rope in it along with a new handle, re-adjusted the space between the coil & the flywheel and poured gas down the carb.. For doing this i've come to discover that im losing a LOT of compression due to having a worn out head gasket. Gas blew out from under the head and got all over everything..however; i do believe that it is beginning to fire and turnover, hopfully the next time i mess with it i can get it running.

 
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12-08-03, 09:47 PM   #23  
Wow, that gasket must be really blown, or the head bolts are loose. If it's that bad, it probably doesn't have enough compression to start at all.


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God bless!

 
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12-09-03, 03:38 PM   #24  
Hotrodder06
my thoughts exactly, the next time the temp is above 60 and not so windy, i'll go try it again, it's too cold & windy today..(like 30 with 40mph winds)...

 
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