Engine Running Problem


Old 12-07-03, 01:13 PM
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Toro snow blower govenor prob...

Hello all,
Tried searching the web but couldnot find any resources to
help so thought i might post in hopes of an answer....

During the first snow storm of the season here inthe east
I used my toro 8hp snow blower MODEL: 38040 ...It seemed
to be bogging down and sometimes quiting under normal
loads. I adjusted the govenor last year and all was fine
until this year. Anyways I am posting pics, maby someone
knows if its wrong from the adjustments.

[IMG]<img src="http://www.wraithsquad.com/gallery/rekr/snowblower/govenor.jpg"></img>[/IMG]

[IMG]<img src="http://www.wraithsquad.com/gallery/rekr/snowblower/govenor_link1.jpg"></img>[/IMG]

[IMG]<img src="http://www.wraithsquad.com/gallery/rekr/snowblower/govenor_link2.jpg"></img>[/IMG]

Dont know what type of engine but here
off the top plate could find: H550-67074B ser-8110B

Hope someone can help me adjust my govenor
to spec.
thanks in advance- Steve
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Old 12-07-03, 04:41 PM
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Hello: Steve. Welcome to the Do-It-Yourself Web Site and our Small Engine forum.

Good Pictures. Based on what is seenin the top pic, the wear marks on the link that attaches to the engine block and the marks on that screw, did you remove the link?

May not be installed in exactly the same place as it was prior to removal. The attached spring is in the top hole. Was it there prior? Should be two holes down most likely.

Second pic, that screw with the spring is turned inwards to it's max. Not suppose to be in that far either. Allows no room for any other adjustments inwards. Which most likely indicates that setting is compensating for another condition which is not right

Third pic. The link is or appears to be in the correct hole location in the carb plate. Not visable from the top for a better view but does appear correct. If the link is not bent, all should be fine there.

The screw on the carb body is the idle adjustment screw. Which also appears to be correctly set. As does the carb screw in the top pic.

Which seems to indicate the problem could be linkage adjustment and or a lack of fuel under load conditions. Check the carbs air vent hole, the fuel passages in the bottom nut and those in the venturi. All must be clean and free of debris, etc.

Most likely I haven't covered all of the possibilities. The other resident small engine service and repair professionals in the forum may be able to offer additional suggestions, advice & help.

Check back on your question several times over the next few days for additional replies.

Small engine repair parts, generic repair manuals and additional help are all available at all local small engine repair shops and or lawn mower repair shops in your area. Shops and dealers are listed in the phone book directory.

If you need further assistance, use the REPLY button. Using the reply button moves the topic back up to the top of the daily topic list automatically & keeps all communications in this one thread.

Regards & Good Luck. Sharp Advice.
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Old 12-07-03, 08:09 PM
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The linkage was lossened and tightened, I previously
thought of a govener problem last year and adjusted.
I thougt i fixed it but this year it got worse. The engine
wasnt getting more gas to the carb when it hit a load
this was resulting in quiting most of the time. And its
not fun restarting every five minutes (pull start). I didnt
post a pic but the bulb has always leaked gas, the screw
on the bottom of the bowl is tight and has new gastket.
Im curious as to what that screw on the bottom of the
fuel bulb does?

wow!, thats a lot of great advice, I really appreciate
all of your help. I will give all of your sugestions a
shot. The top of the carb is blocked by a metal plate
but i did my best to get a shot at the correct anlge
to see if its positioned right. Anyways thanks again.
I will definetly be checking this forum for futher advice
and questions.
Old 12-07-03, 10:02 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: southern louisiana
Posts: 365
The primer bulb shouldn't leak gas. It will allow air into the fuel system and cause the engine to either not start or not run correctly. Is the bulb cracked or damaged in any way? It sounds like it needs replacing.
Old 12-08-03, 06:54 AM
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its not the bulb, I think i worded it wrong, its the
case that holds the float on the bottom of the carb.
There is a screw at the bottom, and it is leaking gas
from the screw not the buld that you use to prime.
sorry for confussion.
Old 12-08-03, 05:58 PM
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Location: The Shake and Bake State USA
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Remove that bottom carb bowl screw and remove the entire fuel bowl. Before doing so, scribe a mark into the bowl and onto the carb body. Doing this is to denote the exact position the bowl is in, in relationship to the carb body. Very important.

The carbs fuel bowl is not flat bottom equally on both side nor all the way around. The lower section is where the float opposite the support pin has to drop down into when there is no fuel in the bowl.

If the gasket drops out, not to worry. It can be reused if care is taken and it is lightly oiled to hold it back in place during reassembly. The gasket goes in the ring slot around the circumferance in the ring groove in the carb body.

Once the bowl is dropped, clean the holes in the venturi fuel pickup tower which the screw screws into. Also notice there is holes in the screw too. They both must be cleaned out.

If you have a can of canned pressurized carb cleaner, insert the plastic extension tube up into the carbs tower where that screw threads into and blast it with carb cleaner. Wear eye protection.

Re-assemble all parts in the reverse order removed and exactly as they where found. Oil the ring washer on the center bolt and tighten it back into the carbs bowl. I think the nut is a 7/16 if memory serves me, and b4 a "Senior Moment" sets in...

Reattach the fuel hose and allow a few momments for fuel to refill the bowl. Fireup the engine. If a fuel restriction was the problem and you managed to get it cleaned out of the carb, the engine will run well again, all other possible causes not the problem....

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