main seal oil leak

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  #1  
Old 04-14-04, 01:08 PM
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main seal oil leak

This Snapper was just given to me. I love it's simple rear engine design and "snowblower-like" drive train. The big problem is that the main engine seal on the shaft that houses the drive disc leaks so there is "very good lubrication" between these two drive wheels. It is a 10HP Tecumseh. >>> ? Have any of you replaced an engine on these or fixed the seal? It would be real nice to clamp an o-ring between two sheets of poly (direct onto the shaft) so that the leak (small as it is) could just run-off away from the disc below. Any thoughts appreciated. Hate to dump this old but totally solid unit.
 
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  #2  
Old 04-14-04, 02:41 PM
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If you have a leak would you not want to fix it. Snoman was the expert on snowblowers and such but have not seen him since febuary. Mabie someone else can help you here... Is this hole in metal? Meaning you could weld it shut?
 
  #3  
Old 04-14-04, 04:01 PM
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If it's the engine crankshaft seal that is leaking you can stop it, but you will have to replace the seals. They are easily removable and replaceable seals, but you have to remove the engine, the engine flywheel, and engine front cover to get at them. If you don't have the tools you probably shouldn't try doing the job yourself. The leak will only get worse, not better.
 
  #4  
Old 04-14-04, 04:16 PM
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The leak will only get worse, not better.

Thats what I think.
 
  #5  
Old 04-14-04, 07:36 PM
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Tx 4 the replies. Sealing oil mixture?

I appreciate your feedback folks. I am certain that it is the crank shaft seal. Someone noted that they sell thicker oil ( or ) sealing oil mixtures? Any thoughts/experience with this? Re: pulling the engine apart : Seems that the real tool needed (if you have the basics) would be the flywheel puller because the piston shouldn't be too bad... no? It was good to hear that it is not to bad when you get the engine apart. I'm a current "electrical controls lay-off" and been looking for work day and night .... so maybe this would be a good reason for breaks in the career-search-mud. That seal really should not have gone!!! These friction drives (like on snowblowers) can't see that much force. It really seems that they would slip before they could damage a main shaft seal. I think I'll pull the engine and get an estimate on the "seal replacement" job "with engine delivered". Probably should drop a piston and rings too. Should price rebuilt units with the trade-in.
 
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Old 04-14-04, 07:39 PM
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Let us know how it goes.
 
  #7  
Old 04-14-04, 08:19 PM
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Depending on the setup of your engine it's possible that you won't have to remove the piston in order to replace the leaking seal. Your engine case should split leaving the crankshaft & piston in one half of the case. If the leaking seal is in the other half then all you have to do is pry it out & pound the new seal back in. If you want to replace both seals then you will have to remove the piston in order to remove the crankshaft from the other case half. That part is easy. Getting the piston back in will require a special tool to compress the rings. That tool is cheap and available from many source (at least in my town). You also should have some sort of seal driver to properly, and without damage, install the new seals. Perhaps you could use a socket, if you have just the right size. The job isn't hard, but you have to have the right stuff so the job won't take forever. Getting the flywheel off is also a pain without the proper tool. Flywheel pullers are cheap for small engines. I've tried & tried to get the flywheel off of a couple of engines without the proper puller and just burned up hours & hours trying. All I did was tear up good tools. Finally I got the proper puller and within a minute had the flywheel off. You can save yourself countless hours and lots of frustrations by just have all the tools you need before you even start the job.
 
  #8  
Old 04-14-04, 10:25 PM
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Hello racket7!

Simple fix...you'll want to remove the engine (you can pull the engine and pulley all straight off the mower) and you don't have to take it apart. Remove the disk that is on the engine crankshaft. Now you have access to the main seal. Use a seal puller or pick to get the seal out. Be careful to not scratch the crankshaft surface..especially where the seal contacts the scratch. Then install the new seal. Quick and easy, and less than $10.00. Let me know if I can help further.
 
  #9  
Old 04-30-04, 06:29 AM
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Thanks to all. I will chase the solution my self.

The grass is just tall enough to start cutting. I will see how bad the seal is gone and use all your advise to chase down a reasonable solution.

I will search for an answer to another question on this engine's oscillation issue (between idle and revving up) and post if I don't find an answer.

I will also post regarding my success if I chase down the seal.

Thanks again.
 
  #10  
Old 04-30-04, 01:13 PM
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Thumbs up snapper 10hp. main seal fix

Racket7
I to like the old snapper (commet) design.If your engines bottom (PTO) seal is leaking it is a good idea to fix it before it gets any worse,and it will get worse.Replacing a 2-3 dolor oil seal is sure a lot better than having to fork out $499.00 to 522.00 for a new engine.
Like Cheese said you don't have to take the engine apart to get to the PTO oil seal.just off the mower.I've been replacing oil seals with nothing but a good screwdriver and a hammer for years.Haven't had any trouble yet.You can do it,and save your self $100.00 to $150.00 in the process.
 
  #11  
Old 05-01-04, 01:45 AM
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Let us know how it goes! The oscillation will be a carburetor problem. Try backing out the high speed mixture screw a half turn or so (the screw on the bottom of the carb, under the bowl).
 
  #12  
Old 05-01-04, 12:26 PM
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Snappy!

Hey racket7,
Look for the identification numbers on both the chassis as well as the engine and I can provide you with part numbers for the PTO seal, carburetor repair kit and drive belt (since this is probably oil soaked). You can then see your local Snapper dealer (who likely also is a Tecumseh dealer) and pick up these parts. When removing the engine there are a few items that will need to be disconnected first: Throttle cable, fuel line, kill wire, electric starter cable and the drive belt. The only item you may need help (from another person) in removing is the belt. You will do this last and once all four engine mounting bolts are removed...just jockey the engine foward enough to loop the belt off the pulley. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
 
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