Tractor: Ingersoll YT112
Engine: Briggs & Stratton
Model: 281707
Type: 0135-01

I was getting our riding lawnmower ready for the Summer, and found a crack in the carb - when running, gas leaked like mad. I purchased a new carb, was in the middle of replacing it - when the linkage that controls the choke came off!

The tractor is controlled in two ways - via a throttle and choke setup (not too sure how this works, btw), and with a variable speed transmission (gearbox, etc...).

I have no clue how the linkage was held in the remote choke (that is, a cable controls the throttle). I know how it connects to the carb. took some pictures of this setup:

Choke Linkage

Mechanism - inside view

Mechanism - side view 1

Mechanism - side view 2

Mechanism - inside view with linkage

Mechanism - side view with linkage

Looking at these images, it looks like the choke linkage will be pushed by the rotating part, but this is not the case. I checked, and the new carb is identical to the old one.

I can take additional pictures or clarify if anything is confusing.

Thanks!

John Pariseau

 

John,the part that your showing is called the governor control plate.I don't see an angle to show you what I mean,so here goes.
When the governor plate is bolted to the engine,normally there is a small cut out place on the muffler side of the plate about half way up.It runs sideways.After you hook the dog leged end of the linkage to the choke of the carb.,the curved end runs through this slot and loops around the control lever so as to pull the choke closed.
In fact the best I can tell,your pic.titled inside view with linkage,looks right.

Check back from time to time over the next couple of days,someone else might be able to explain this better than I did.

Post back with any problems.

 

Thanks for the reply, let me clarify it a bit more...

When I had the whole thing together, moving the choke control lever did nothing - the linkage connected to the choke did not move.

The linkages loop - it never contacts the rotating piece. Is there supposed to be a hook/hole on the rotating piece, or does the linkage sit freely between the bar and the end touching the loop of the linkage (as seen in the Mechanism - inside view with linkage)?

Thanks,

John

 

The looped end fits "freely" in there.Make sure lever can touch inside of linkage.You will have to adjust the throttle cable.Take 5/16 bolt lose on throttle cabe clamp (on governor control plate) Push the throttle lever (by stiring wheel) to choke.Move throttle cable up/down until the control lever pulls looped end of linkage to choke then tighten 5/16 nut.Move throttle back&forth to see if does alright.

Let us know what happens.

 

repair_guy -

Thanks!!!! That was it - I'll post pictures of the "after" shot, of the cable clamp. I didn't realize I could adjust this w/out any problems.

To be honest, we never had to use the choke to start the engine - my guess is that it hasn't been operational for the past few years.

The next step, which I fear, is adjusting the carburetor - can I play it by ear, or do I need to get a tachometer? I have a Chiltons small engine repair/service manual I picked up at the Library this morning.

It is a single piece Flo-Jet carb, bowl type. There are 3 separate screws I need to adjust, and the book covers how to, but it lists speeds instead of sounds (that is, turn the screw until it starts to skip, then till it sounds like it's gonna blow, and put the screw in between). I've adjusted the carb on my VW (73 bug), without a tachometer.

Thanks!

 

GLAD I WAS ABLE TO HELP

The type cabburetor you have is called a FLO-JET,bowl type,choke-a-matic,I know,It's a mouthful.And yes,you can adjust it "by ear"just like you did your bug.(In fact when I was going to school on small engine repair in 1973 my instructor got in trouble for letting us rebuild his VW bug instead of taking it to the auto shop.) Run both screws out from seat 1-1/2 turn put throttle of idle speed,adjust screw on top of carb. till engine sound changes.turn the other way till engine sound changes.then turn screw to mid point.Then adjust small screw on throttle shaft till engine idles as fast or as slow as you want it to.Next put throttle to fast speed (just under choke position) adjust high speed screw(under bowl) in the same way that you did on idle screw.
You can put a tachometer on it if you want to,high should be 2400 RPM's idle should be 1800 RPM's??

If you have any more questions post again.

 

Worked like a charm!

Here is the URL to the clamp that holds the throttle cable:

Throttle cable clamp

 

Hello friend,

You have no idea how much your post helped me! Same situation. However, I have one question that you, of all people, should be able to answer: how does the throttle/choke lever on the backside of the governor control plate (the mechanism you snapped pictures of) connect to the governor lever so that the operator doesn't over-ride the intended function of the governor (or is this even possible?). My take is that a spring connects the two.

I thought that since you have the same exact engine, you could help me with this. A picture showing this would be most excellent -- I know it's alot of trouble for nothing, but I really would appreciate it. Otherwise, text will do just fine.

Thanks,
Budj28

 

Yes, a spring connects the two. I don't know what kind of spring it needs, you might need to get a specific one from a Briggs & Stratton shop (anyone else know?). There should be a hole in the governor lever for the spring.

I can't take a picture today, but let me know if this was all you needed. I can take a picture if needed, although I won't be able to till tomorrow later in the day (after 5:00 EST).

I'm glad you found this thread useful!

 

Yes, there is a specific governor spring for each model & type number. There are a few different springs, but by design, it doesn't much matter which of these springs you use since the arm it attaches to at the speed control is bendable, thereby adjusting the top RPM. In pic links 2-5 of "ururk's" first post, the left most, angled portion of the movable rack & pinion is where the spring attaches - this is the bendable part. Anyone of the following Briggs springs will work: 691795; 692208; 692529. Then simply bend the arm as mentioned above to set the top RPM desired. "ururk", I still don't believe your going to get any choke...It appears from the pics that you have a "tab" broken-off from the speed control bracket...Briggs part number 491594 will resolve this issue. "Budj28", the governor arm, which is not pictured in any of "ururk's" posts is just behind the control bracket and is vertical in position. Your throttle link (also not pictured) is a solid link that runs between this arm and the throttle shaft on the carburetor. The spring attaches between the same arm (only at a lower point) and the bracket at the point mentioned above. Good luck to both of you.

 

I am about to replace the B&S 491031 carburetor on my Craftsman Model 917.254660 tractor using a B&S 281707 0200-01 engine. I found all the instructions and photos extremely helpful. I was wondering if I can just disconnect the fuel line, unbolt the old carburetor and then just disconnect the choke and throttle linkages at the carburetor end and reverse the process with the new carburetor. Or do I have to disconnect one or both linkages at the Control Bracket Governor Control end. I do appreciate all the information here but do need some clarification as to the best way to disconnect the choke and throttle linkages. I know this is an old post but advice would be great. Thanks to the posts from puey69, budj28, and last but not least repair_guy