Lawn Tractor Transmission Problem (Poulan)

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  #1  
Old 05-03-04, 02:31 PM
dandylion
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Question Lawn Tractor Transmission Problem (Poulan)

My Poulan yard tractor (model # HD145H42H) is not delivering any power to the drive wheels. I have checked to make sure that the "freewheel" (which disengages the rear wheels so you can push the tractor) is set to "run".

The engine will start and runs fine, so the starter must "know" when I have pressed the brake / cluth pedal (or else the starter wouldn't start the engine).

However, once the engine is running, I put it in gear (I've tried both forward and reverse) and release the brake / clutch pedal there is no power to the wheels.

I'd appreciate confirmation of my diagnosis that this is a clutch problem. Detailed instructions and pictures would help a lot! Or suggestions on where to get them.

Thanks in advance!
 
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  #2  
Old 05-03-04, 02:57 PM
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You have probably lost your belt or the belt just sliped off the pully. Look under the frame and look at the engine. You will see a pylly with a belt attached to it. Follow that back to your transmition in the back of the mower. It should be obvious if the belt came off or not. Let us know if the belt slipped off and we can help you get it back on.
 
  #3  
Old 05-03-04, 03:04 PM
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No wheel drive!

Based on your model#, you have a "Hydro-Gear" hydrostatic drive transmission. If you know for a fact the bypass lever is doing what it should be doing then three areas will be of concern: 1- Belt, this obviously must be intact and in good shape. This is a '98 unit and could be as simple as needing a new belt. A badly glazed belt will slip but should give indication of wanting to move the unit though. 2- Axle keys, Did you recently remove either or both of the rear wheels? If so, a 3/16" square key could have fallen out. With only one of them out and because you have a differential drive, you will have no drive. 3-If the bypass valve, belt and the keys are not an issue then you have internal transmission trouble. There are very few, if any, serviceable parts inside this tranny. You will need to see an authorized Hydro-Gear (or AYP)service center to help you out if needed. Let us know if we can be of more assistance!!!
 
  #4  
Old 05-04-04, 12:48 AM
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Hello dandylion!

Both of these guys are right...you probably have either a broken or loose belt (off the pulleys), or you are missing an axle key. If you have recently removed a wheel, and the problem occurred immediately after re-installing it, then you probably didn't get the axle key back in between the axle and the wheel.
 
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Old 05-04-04, 05:59 AM
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Hello: dandylion

All the above may apply. Each should be checked. Minor information details are missing from within your problem description. More detailed and specific information needs to be known, as requested above.

Conditions which should be meet:
If no recent repairs have been made and no mechanical problems exist, than it may be possible and logical to safely assume the pump is defective.

Or a fluid system within the tranny is malfunctioning, etc, since the tranny is a hydrostatic drive. Pump should be checked for proper operation externally. Fluid level and fluid color should also be checked and noted.

All diagnostics should be performed prior to any tranny mechanical repair and or internal service is attempted. If recent mechanical repairs have been done, each should be double checked for proper reassembly of all parts.

Regards & Good Luck. Sharp Advice.
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  #6  
Old 05-09-04, 03:36 PM
dandylion
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Thanks for the input so far.

I cannot see up under the tractor (line of sight is limited at best, and since I have not yet removed the mower deck, I can't see anything).

However, I can feel that the drive belt is off the pulley. Terminator, you said you could help me get the belt back on. AS much as I appreciate the offer, I'll be satisfied if you simply tell me how, and I'll actually handle the labor myself.



As I indicated, there is a mower deck on board currently and I suspect I'll have to remove it to start?

Thanks in advance.
 
  #7  
Old 05-09-04, 06:25 PM
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Once you get one end of the belt onto the pully under the engine, walk it back towards the transmition pully. There must not be rubbing against another belt or something else. If it does, you may have to go under it or over it. You will notice alot of tension in the belt once near the transmition. Thats when a regular screwdriver comes in handy. Using the screw driver, pull the belt up and walk it around untill you get it to slip onto the pully. If you need more hwlp, let us know. Let us know how it goes.
 
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Old 05-09-04, 10:48 PM
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If you use the clutch pedal, you can release the belt tension and slip it over the pulley with ease. There is a park brake lock that will hold the pedal down for you while you work.
 
  #9  
Old 05-12-04, 10:58 AM
dandylion
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Thanks for sticking with me on this thread! Here's the latest:

I dropped the mower deck and replaced the drive belt (not a new belt, the old one looks to be in good shape; I just put it back on the pulleys).

The tractor is now mobile with power at the rear wheels. However, something is still not right. There are 2 things.
1) When I select a drive option (whether forward or reverse) and release the clutch/brake pedal, it doesn't "ease" forward or backward as it should. Instead, there is no motion at first, and then when the pedal gets to a certain point, it "leaps" into motion. Very abrupt, not smooth.
2) Now that the belt is back on, the wheels seem to be permanently engaged with the engine when the clutch/brake pedal is up. Whenther the "freewheel" bar is pushed in or pulled out the wheels are "locked".

Thanks again. I'll wait to hear your thoughts.
 
  #10  
Old 05-12-04, 11:13 AM
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You need to increase the tension of your belt. Post your mowers model numbers so we know what kind of setup you have to help direct on how to adjust it.
 
  #11  
Old 05-13-04, 09:48 AM
dandylion
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It is a Poulan model # HD145H42H
 
  #12  
Old 05-14-04, 01:18 AM
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Sounds to me like the tensioner arm needs lubricating. Look under the right side of the mower at the pulley that moves when you move the clutch pedal. It is on a bracket which turns on a shaft. This shaft is where the lubricating needs to be done, so that the bracket turns on it easily and without sticking.
 
  #13  
Old 05-15-04, 04:53 PM
dandylion
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Many thanks to all of you who contributed. Cheese, Terminator, Sharp Advice and Puey, my tractor is running like new... well, I didn't buy it new, but it feels good as new to me!

The toughest part of the whole job was reinstalling the mower deck... a tip from me for future advisees: since there are several locations that are tough to see, and which could be confused when re-installing the mower deck, I found it helpful to mark each peg and each hole with a "twist tie" for every cotter pin I removed.

Thanks again! You all were a big help!

Dandy
 
  #14  
Old 05-15-04, 05:30 PM
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I am glad you got it fixed!

Thanks for the tip too!
 
  #15  
Old 05-17-04, 12:29 AM
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Glad you got it fixed! Thanks for letting us know how it went. Was it the tensioner arm that was causing the last problem?
 
  #16  
Old 05-17-04, 07:57 AM
dandylion
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Yes, the tensioner arm was sticking. I hit it, and the associated parts, with WD40. Much better now.
 
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