engine abruptly stopped while cutting

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  #1  
Old 05-07-04, 10:18 AM
sharoma
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Unhappy engine abruptly stopped while cutting

This problem started after the mover stopped abruptly while cutting the grass. Since this was first spring cutting, the grass was tall.

This is a Crafstman Eager1 6.75HP Lawn mover. It is self propelled and model# is 917.377591

If I push the red primer button 5~10 times and then try to start, the engine sounds as if it is about to start and then I see white smoke coming out from the air-filter location and then it stops. When I open the Air-filter(paper filter) I can see oil spots on it.
Also sometimes the pull cord retracts so fast that it is yanked out of my hand. Once the cord flew back so fast and hit me near the shoulder area.

This spring when I took it out following was changed:

1. New blade and blade adapter.
2. Spark Plug.
3. Drained old oil and replaced with new.
4. Cleaned the bottom catchment area.
5. Filled with fresh gas.

Do not know what do now. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks
 
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  #2  
Old 05-07-04, 11:53 AM
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Smile engine abruptly stoped

There is two reasons for pull cord to pull back like that.
(1) - the blade is lose.
(2) - flywheel key is broke

You have a shear key in the flywheel so to keep you from really doing damage when ever you run the mower over something (like a stob,or post in the ground).And when ever key is sheard or broke to throws the engine out of time.this is what happened.just have to replace it with a new one.

Take the top cover off,remove the 15/16 nut of of crankshaft,take off starter cup,tie brake (on handle) up.remove flywheel an replace key.Put back together making sure flywheel nut is tight, and thats all there is to that.

If any more problems,yell
 
  #3  
Old 05-07-04, 01:55 PM
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I agree...

The flywheel key is about half an inch long and either rectangular or half moon shaped. They are about 3/16" thick and are designed to break if the engine happens to stop very quickly. It is located on the crankshaft right where the flywheel sits around it. The key costs about $1 or less so it is a cheap way to protect an engine. If you remove the shroud(the cover on top the engine, also known as a cowling or blower housing) off of the engine you will see the flywheel sitting there. You should be able to see the flywheel key down in a notch in the flywheel where it fits around the crankshaft. Also, on one side of the flywheel is a magnet. You can use a metal object to find it. This magnet will pass the coil on every round however the spark plug is only required to fire every other round. If you understand the four strokes of an engine then you will know that this magnet has to pass the coil when the engine is at top dead center (tdc) after the compression stroke going onto the power stroke. The easy way to find this is to remove the spark plug and turn the engine by hand while holding your finger over the spark plug hole. When your finger gets pushed off of the hole and starts to get sucked onto the hole then the magnet should have just passed the coil. If the magnet is way off and past the coil, then the flywheel key is sheared. Sometimes you will go to start an engine by hand and the cord will be ripped out of your hand, this is a very obvious symptom of a loose blade of sheared flywheel key. On pushmowers, the blade acts as a spinning object and helps the flywheel do it's job.

THIS NEXT THING IS TO BE DONE AFTOR YOU DO THE ABOVE AND FIX THAT PROBLEM...
Because you probably also have gas in the oil, you will have to drain all the oil out of the engine and replace with SAE 30 weight engine oil. Also you need to replace your air filter as it most likely soaked with oil and gas, and replace your sparkplug too. Once all of this is done, you should be ready to start that engine.
 
  #4  
Old 05-07-04, 02:40 PM
sharoma
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Good suggestions

Thanks for the advice, I will check it this weekend and then update the thread.
 
  #5  
Old 05-07-04, 03:32 PM
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More from the river rat

Guy and Term are right on the money (so it appears) about the sheared flywheel key and furthermore, Term hit the mark about fuel in your oil. Any kickback in the starter is a sure indication of the key being sheared. While white smoke means that fuel is mixed in with the oil. Now, if you have fuel in the oil it means you will have to service the carburetor because it is allowing the fuel to enter the crankcase, which it should not be. You will have one of two problems: 1- Inlet needle & seat; 2- Float, or maybe both. If you tackle the key problem, be sure to use the proper procedure to remove the flywheel. Incorrect procedure could damage the flywheel. Good luck an let us know what you decide to tackle and how you make out.
 
  #6  
Old 05-07-04, 04:16 PM
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Puey61 is corect. The reason for the carb letting fuel and oil mix is because the inlet is either not seating properly, has trash in there, and mabie be your float, however unlikely. But to check to make sure the float is working properly. Use your finger to make it go up and down, if that works, than that part is good. The other is to shake the float near your ear to see if you can here liquid swooshing inside. If you do, the float is bad. But don't mess with the float if you think its not the culprit. Most likely is your needle valve. Use automotive Gumout spray to clean the insides of the carb. Let us know how it goes.

PS: Thanks Puey61 for the high marks!
 
  #7  
Old 05-07-04, 05:13 PM
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SHAROMA

I'm sorry,but I left out one thing.when ever you get your mower running again you mite notice a bad vibration.This is a result from hiting something with the blade.It hit so hard that it put a bend in your crankshaft.Sometimes it does and sometimes it doesn't.If it has, I recommend that you take it to a repair shop.They will prob.tell you that your going to have to buy another crank.Don't lestion.Insest on them straighting that one.Some people,including the Tecumseh people,will tell you that "you cant straighten a crankshaft"I'm here to tell you that you can.I've been straighting crankshafts for years,I've never had one to brake or cause any trouble.
 
  #8  
Old 05-14-04, 10:35 AM
sharoma
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Smile

Sorry guys for the late update. My husband took the mower to the local repair shop and asked them to replace the flywheel key. It came back yesterday with a new flywheel key. I paid around $39.00 for parts(air filter, key) and time.

Thanks to all of you.

One last question:
Now the mower is running fine, sound is also good. I still cannot start it easily. First start is OK(after pressing the prime button 5~6 times) but while cutting the grass when I stop the mower to remove the cut grass the re-start will take around 3~4 pulls. Could this be because I am using the leftover gas from previous year. I even put some gas stabilizer directly into the mowers gas tank, but not much help.

Thanks again.
 
  #9  
Old 05-14-04, 02:08 PM
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Very possible. Let the engine burn up all the gas that is left in the tank than use fresh gas. Your gas has gone stale and causing problems. Most likely you have a varnish buildup going on in the carb. If you want it done right, you would get the carb cleaned up inside with Gumout spray. If you have gas that is going to be stored for a long time, you will have to add fuel stabiliser to the gas can. Here is how much you have to add depending on how big your gas can is.

For a 1 gallon gas can add 1/2 once of fuel stabiliser.

For a 2 gallon gas can add 1 onces of fuel stabiliser.

For a 5 gallon gas can add 2 onces of fuel stabiliser.

For a 6 gallon gas can add 4 onces of fuel stabiliser.

Let us know how it goes.
 
  #10  
Old 05-20-04, 06:44 AM
sharoma
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To clean the carburetor do I need to take apart/out or I can just spray gumout on it?

Is it alright if I put the gasoline with stabilizer(taken out from the mower) in my Van or I need to dispose it off.

Thanks
 
  #11  
Old 05-20-04, 09:16 AM
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Stabiliser would not hurt your car. As far as your carb on your machine, you may have a bowl type carb, which you would loosen the nut under it all the way untill you can pop the bowl off. Than you can spray that gumout in there really good.
 
  #12  
Old 05-20-04, 03:13 PM
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In regards to hard starting & stabilizer

RE: hard starting
When the engine is hot from running, are you priming when restarting? If so, don't. A warm engine needs no prime. If not, and it should start without difficulty, then the carburetor may need servicing.
RE: stabilizer
Stabilizer will not resurrect old stale fuel, it merely prevents fuel from going stale. Therefore, it will do no good to add it to your gas tank now. And yes, old fuel will greatly diminish the power of the mower...get rid of the fuel you do have in your gas can (or if only a little quantity, simply buy new fuel and this should dilute the old stuff well enough). If you have a good amount of fuel in the can, and provided you have no more than a couple gallons left, it will be safe to add this to your car, if you have no automobile service station nearby that accepts old fuel that is.
Post back with your answer to the above question.
 
  #13  
Old 05-21-04, 06:23 AM
sharoma
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Re:Priming
Engine priming is only needed for initial 5~10 minutes of mowing, that is when I am running mower for continous 15~20 minutes and then stop and re-start it will start like charm.

Re:Old fuel
I have emptied my mower and now have less than a gallon of fuel(w/ stabilizer) left in the storage can. I can check with my nearest(not so) service station if they will accept old fuel.
 
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