poor running murray 17/42

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  #1  
Old 05-24-04, 07:56 PM
easyrb
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poor running murray 17/42

I pulled a cardinal sin and tilted the tractor to the wrong side to replace the blades and got oil in the carburetor, big time. Now it runs very poorly, I have to run at max throttle or it stalls. I replaced the spark plug and air filter, also
replaced the fuel filter after cleaning the tank. I guess at this point I have the choice of taking it to a repair shop or attempting a carburetor overhaul.
I work on computers and paper moving equip so I am no stranger to mechanical work or complicated equipment but I don't know about this. would I have rebuild or merely take it off and clean it, bath or ?
 
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Old 05-24-04, 09:15 PM
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Cool

Howdy easyrb,welcome aboard.

"If" your lawnmwer was runing fine B 4 you tilted it over to replace the blades, I don't see any reason why just a clean up wouldn't work for you.
Take the carbretor off/apart and clean it with choke & carb.spray cleaner(found at any auto parts store) Spay into every hole & tube and put back together.It'll be cutting grass again before you know it.

IF YOU RUN INTO ANY PROBLEMS OR HAVE ANY QUESTIONS,PUSH REPAY AND LEAVE US YOUR ENGINES MODEL,TYPE & CODE #'s ALONG WITH MASSEGE
WHERE WE CAN SEE THE SAME THING THAT YOU ARE
 
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Old 05-25-04, 05:54 AM
easyrb
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I guess I can try that it appears as though the carb is held to intake/airfilter assembly by two large brass bolts, one on either side. The only other connections are the trottle and govenor links. (besides the gas and I think ground wire that goes to the bottom of the sediment bowl.
 
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Old 05-25-04, 07:12 AM
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carb removing/cleaning

repair guy is right (although i think he meant to push "REPLEY" instead of "REPAY")and that is all that is holding on the carb is those two bolts, the thottle linkege and what ever else you said. It sounded right. Anyways all that it should take is a cleaning.
 
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Old 05-25-04, 10:01 AM
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Before you remove the carburetor

There is no need to remove the carb to clean it based on what has happened. Merely remove the bowl and then use spray cleaner. That should do it. Also, remove the spark plug and use this same spray in the combustion chamber, turning the engine over without the plug to flush out any oil in there.
 
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Old 05-25-04, 11:51 AM
easyrb
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Question

The question then becomes how to remove the bowl. It appears to have a ground wire attached, easily removed, but is it screwed in like a jar? And is there a screen or some such inside. Also I intend to change the oil and filter needs it anyway, we use the thing a lot, about 1.5 acres with this little guy.
 
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Old 05-25-04, 02:59 PM
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Bowl removal

The wire attached is what powers up the anti-afterfire solenoid. Pull the wire off (it is a spade terminal), unscrew the bowl nut/solenoid just as you would remove a jar top (remember it's upside down and you still need to turn counterclockwise) and walah! the bowl will come off. There may be two items to contend with, once off. First, the bowl gasket (O-ring-like, only squared) may come off with the bowl. If so, once you're satisfied with the cleaning you're about to do, you will want to install this before the bowl goes back on. You will see a machined part of the carburetor where this gasket will fit up to (make sure it does not get twisted when positioning. The second item of contention may be the inlet needle. The inlet needle "attaches" to the float and may possibly drop out of its chamber (usually not though). If it does, it would be easiest to pull the float hinge pin out and install it to the float this way before reinstalling the float/inlet needle assembly to the carburetor. You will hear others mention using "Gumout" spray cleaner to clean the carburetor...I prefer Briggs Carburetor Cleaner, part number 100042. Use this to flush out the carb, spraying anywhere you can, liberly. The reason I like this cleaner is that is cleans exceptionally well and evaporates quickly. Use this same cleaner to flush out the combustion chamber as previously instructed. Let us know how it goes.
 
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Old 06-03-04, 05:35 PM
easyrb
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Sorry its been awhile but I've been busy. Finally got the carb spray and pulled the bowl off, it was in bad shape inside all crudded up with rust and dirt. I scraped it out and sanded with emery paper, pulled the float and sprayed everywhere and bunch into the throat. Cranked it up and adjusted the idle, ran great top to bottom on the throttle position, which it hadn't in a long time. But after a half hour or so of mowing it sputtered and died like it was out of gas. It cranked right back up and ran for five or so minutes then same thing. Every time it died it cranked back up but died sooner each time.
I checked the carb from the top, took off the air filter and could see vapor.
I adjusted the other adjustment that only goes about 3/4 turn, no help. After I finished the front with the push mower I checked every thing and the bowl was not completely tight, several complete turns. Could that have caused what I could only assume is vapor lock? Didn't a chance to try it again had to come to work.
 
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Old 06-03-04, 11:25 PM
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If it still doesn't run right, pull the bowl again. Sounds like you either have more junk in the carb, or the anit-backfire solenoid is sticking.
 
  #10  
Old 06-22-04, 07:05 AM
easyrb
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well back again, it just seemed not to want to work right. the last time I pulled the bowl it appeared to have water in the bottom, a small amount of fluid with rust, and the fuel barely flowed from the tank, had some kind of insect eggs or something in the line. Anyway when I put it back together it leaked aound the oring and I couldn't it on correctly, so I punted and took it in. Now I'm waiting for the call, I let you know. thanks
 
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