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Dana/Spicer transaxle


davvalh's Avatar
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06-25-04, 11:34 AM   #1  
davvalh
Dana/Spicer transaxle

I have a Sears Riding lawnmower. I tried to change a rear tire on it when the axle came out of the case. The parts breakdown show a snap ring on the end of the axle. My question is what kind of lubricant is in the transaxle? It is a dana/spicer model 4360-41. I have taken it out of the lawnmower, but can not see any place to drain or service the unit. I do see how the case splits and the bolts that hold it together. I just don't want a mess when I open it up if I can avoid it.
any help is appreciated.

 
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06-25-04, 03:33 PM   #2  
I don't have alot of familiarity with Dana rear ends but they are basically similar to Peerless (which I'm well familiar with). Is the tranny a shifter or a hydro unit? I'm going to guess it's a shifter and being so you would use a Bentonite grease. Just how much I couldn't answer. Before you take my answer for the one, wait for "cheese" to reply to this post. He should do such by tomorrow.

 
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06-26-04, 12:47 AM   #3  
Hello davvalh!

There is no drain plug, and if there was, nothing would come out. The grease in these is thick. Split the case as you noted, and make the repair, then I like to add grease to the existing before reassembly. I have found that using "OO" grease (double ought grease) is much better than the existing grease. The grease that is in it tends to settle out away from all the gears and does nothing because it won't run back in contact with the gears. The "OO" grease will run back down towards the gears after it slings away from them. Most any tractor or lawn mower repair shop should have this grease.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

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08-23-06, 04:43 AM   #4  
Great mower, bad transaxle

I have a question about the Dana/Spicer transaxle 4360-41. Last night my 12 year old son spotted a Sears lawn tractor in our neighborhood that someone was giving away for free. The owner told us that the only problem with it was the transaxle. The engine started & runs great, my son drove it home. The only problem seems to be that the large belt driven pulley (on top of the transaxle) is very wobbly. The pulley & shaft are solid but the shaft into the transaxle is loose. My question is:
What could be wrong with this transaxle & how should we proceed? Is it something that may be fixed? My son is very interested in fixing it & wants to mow lawns to make some money.

 
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08-23-06, 05:16 AM   #5  
There will be either two bushings or two needle bearings in the upper case half where the input shaft goes through. The bearings and/or the shaft are the trouble you will find. This isn't a terribly difficult repair to do but you will have to split the case halves inorder to do the job, however. I'd suggest finding a spicer servicing dealer in your area and ask them for a illustrated parts list and, if available, a service manual for this model series tranny. This will greatly help you in disecting the tranny.

 
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08-23-06, 07:11 AM   #6  
Azis
If you find the model # of the tractor Sears site online will most likely have and Illustrated parts listing.

http://www3.sears.com/

 
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08-23-06, 10:22 AM   #7  
I did go to the Sears site on line & found an exploded parts view. They didn’t list the bearings separately so I called Dana Spicer directly. The people from Dana reinforced what Puey61 had said about “two needle bearings in the upper case half where the input shaft goes through”. The Dana employee looked up the part numbers for me & I found the parts online from Outdoor Distributors (http://www.outdoordistributors.com/parts.html). If I need the whole “kit-Input shaft/pinion/bevel” (which includes the bearings) it’s $56.29. If all I need is the needle bearings, they are $10.46 each. I know I need to split the case in order to replace the parts. My next question is, Can I do it without removing the transaxle from the tractor? Also, would you suggest trying to replace just the bearings or would it be a lot easer to do the kit?

Thanks so much for the advice & help. Mark.

 
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08-23-06, 10:44 AM   #8  
Azis
You will want to remove the unit from the mower. Prolly best to wait and see what condition the old parts are in before determining which you want to replace. Unless its been sitting for some time or has seals gone bad the shaft and pinion can usually be cleaned up just fine.

 
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08-23-06, 11:38 AM   #9  
Azis, thanks for the advice. It may take us a few days to get into it, but I will keep you posted on our progress.

Mark

 
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08-23-06, 04:14 PM   #10  
Most of the time when I run into one like this, the input shaft is worn and needs to be replaced. The pinion gear is probably ok but it won't hurt anything to change it.


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10-18-06, 08:33 AM   #11  
All done!

I finally got the parts, & time to do the repair. I ended up replacing the input shaft along with the needle bearings. The shaft was worn, & all that was left of the bearings was the outer shell (no actual needle bearings were still there). Everything went reasonably well, but it did take at least 6 hours to clean the old case out, make the part changes & put it all back together. The bearings were tough to get out. Now works great. Thanks for the advice.

 
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10-18-06, 09:07 AM   #12  
Good news and good work. Glad you got it.

 
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10-19-06, 01:21 AM   #13  
Thanks for the update! Glad you got it fixed!


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03-15-10, 02:50 AM   #14  
dana spicer trans model # 4360-140

I have a craftsman 6 speed 2001 riding mower with a 9" rear pulley. I am having difficulty removing the large pulley. I have soaked the top of the pulley/shaft with penetrating lubricant to no avail. I took the retaing clip off, but the pulley will not come off. Is this pulley a "pull off" type or does it screw off? Any help would be appreciated. sincerely, bigarm69

 
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03-16-10, 12:17 AM   #15  
It pulls off. Sometimes I use an impact hammer to get the stubborn ones off.


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03-29-10, 02:06 AM   #16  
engine stack pulley

hello cheese...could you assist me another time? I was wanting to possibly remove the engine stack pulley(5 1/2" bottom-3 3/8" top) can you tell me what needs to be done to remove? I can see it has a nut on the bottom of the pulley and it is the original one put on the mower(2001 model). I am wanting to switch the pulley and put the 5 1/2" on the top. Will this work flipping the pulley upside down? what tools will I need ? THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP. Bigarm69

 
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03-29-10, 08:52 AM   #17  
You just remove the bolt from the center and pull the pulley off. It won't flip over. You can order different pulley sizes to fit it.


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03-29-10, 03:42 PM   #18  
puilley removal

Thanks Cheese! correct, it won't flip....You da man! again, thanks for all your help....Bigarm69

 
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08-16-10, 01:29 AM   #19  
A little advice

Perhaps you guys can guide me a little. First time into a lawnmower rear end. Spicer rear end from a 96 Craftsman mower. The shifter was so stiff, I finally snapped it off. So I pulled the rear end and cracked open the case.

Grease looked dark and nasty, and there was very little water in there (probably from when I just washed it before pulling it out). Water appeared to have gotten in via the pulley shaft, or marginally possibly thru the shift shaft.

The sliding collar was hard to slide, and there seemed to be small signs of rust in the grease in the keyway. The gear end of the shift key (one of them anyway) looked to be ok. I believe the cure here is probably to clean, polish the shaft and keys/keyslots up, and regrease.

I'm guessing these things just end up getting some gunk or rust in the keyslots or under the collar and get sticky.

My questions are:

1) Should I remove 100% of the grease, and start fresh? How much grease would that be?

2) Should I replace the keys irregardless of condition, or only if I see a problem?

3) The Bentonite grease comes in a 32oz tube. That does not seem like nearly enough to replace all the grease in that rear end. Is it?

4) Should I replace the rubber end seals, or do they always re-use fine?

5) Should I replace the chain? It looks a little sloppy, but I don't know what's normal for them.

6) I hear you have to line up something with the Bronze oil-lite bushings and the case. Could anybody elaborate on what needs to happen there?

Thanks so much!

 
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