8HP L-Head V-Shaft B&S Engine

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Old 07-05-04, 07:22 PM
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8HP L-Head V-Shaft B&S Engine

Hi Cheese. Remember my Murray Rear Engine Rider? Well, I had been using it alot lately for the past 4 months and did not check the oil. All of the sudden while running the engine, you could hear it working harder to run untill it completely stopped and would not move when trying to crank it. When opening the oil fill stick, lots of white smoke was coming out. Let cool a while and I checked the oil, bone dry. Never seen a engine bone dry of oil before. So I added oil to the engine. I kept pressing the button in pulses over and over again untill I could get the pisten to start moving. Then with more pulses, I got it to fire and stop. Repeated a few more times till I got it to fire up and stay running. I ran for a while at low idle to lubercate everything. This seems to have worked and the engine is running fine except for a light hitting sound. I talked with a old guy about it and he told me that its my wrist pins on the rod that is creating that sound. Do you think that is what it is Cheese? He said my engine is not going to last long. Do you think I have any chance with this engine without buying a new one?

You don't think that because of the engine seisure, that it has messed anything up inside the engine due to overheating? For a new 8HP engine from briggs I think it will cost me something in the 300 dollar range. And more for a higher quality engine.
 
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Old 07-05-04, 10:23 PM
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Hi Terminator!

No, it's not the wrist pin. It's probably the rod knocking on the crank journal. You might still have a chance of having a good engine if you rebuild it now. If you run it much longer, it will probably break the rod and quite possibly ruin the entire engine.
 
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Old 07-06-04, 03:07 PM
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My plan is to buy a new engine, so I think I am going to wear this thing out. Although, I can admit, this engine has done me great service for a 8HP for a long time. No one can expect a engine to last more than 16 years aftor something like this happens to it LOL. A person brought a LT into my shop one time and had a broaken rod in the cylinder. My buddy tom had the knowledge to fix it. He offered to do the same here but I told him forget it cause I am going to buy a new one. I think I am going to buy a 12HP in place of the 8HP as long as the bolt holes on the engine meat the holes on the frame. What do you think Cheese, are these L-Head engines all the same on bolt placement?
 
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Old 07-06-04, 03:17 PM
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Term,
You might be able to get away with a rod-replacement-only here. It's at least worth a look in the engine. The first thing I would do is remove the head and look for any cylinder scoring and if this looks good continue with a tear-down and check for any wear inside. I've had similar jobs in here where this is possible. Just polish the crank, replace the rod and away you go. Good luck.
PS A 12 horse will have the same bolt pattern.
 
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Old 07-06-04, 05:50 PM
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Thanks, I will take a look at it. I have a feeling there is damage already because I have been running a while sence it happened. So, I guess it could turn into a fun prodject for learning cause as I said before, my knowledge don't span this far into a engine. I think the valves may be getting worn too. I mean, besides the knocking, the engine is running fine except for the oil burning. I just think that the valves are going to go soon. What you think about that on a 16 year old engine? LOL
 
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Old 07-06-04, 10:46 PM
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My knowledge won't let me work the inside of an engine but I had a 30+ year old Kohler 10HP rebuilt last year. It purrs now ... the price was less than $350.
 
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Old 07-09-04, 08:58 PM
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I used my mower for a service today and in a 3 hour period, it used up almost a whole crankcase of oil.
 
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Old 07-10-04, 12:30 AM
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Using it will ruin it beyond repair. It may be toast by now, but if there's still a chance for repairing it you will lose that chance by running it too much.
 
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