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2 wires left on rebuild.


slo5oh's Avatar
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08-08-04, 08:52 AM   #1  
slo5oh
2 wires left on rebuild.

Long story short.
I was given a craftsman tiller. The engine had been pulled apart and left for about a year. I've done (what I think is) a great rebuild on her. But now I have 2 wires left. They both come off the coil (is that's what it's called?), one has a small fiberglass board it's bolted to, the other is an open end wire. Where do these wires go?

The engine is labled a Craftsman 4hp, but it's actually a Briggs and Stratton 4hp... 112202 0833
and the tiller is a Craftsman 14" model 917.299640
Thanks for any help!!!

 
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08-08-04, 10:13 AM   #2  
Azis
Sears shows that your engine type is 0633 rather than 0833 and according to briggs parts list your engine should have an external breaker (points) The fiberglass board you mention sounds like it could be part of the points assy, the other wire if short and perhaps uninsulated should connect under one of the coil mounting bolts or ground. Also there should be a wire from your points assy to your throttle plate (where your throttle cable leads to) which grounds out when the throttle is closed. (kill wire)
All that I have worked on have been of the internal breaker type but the wiring should be consistent.

 
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08-08-04, 12:36 PM   #3  
slo5oh
I know the sears website lists my engine as a 0633, but I assure you it is a 0833. I found this out after I bought the engine gasket kit... wondering why many of the gaskets didn't seem right.
It is a 0833.
Can you explain or link a picture of what the points assy looks like?

 
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08-08-04, 01:51 PM   #4  
sceptre
hello,

the wires you mentioned are for killing the fire ot the sparkplug.
the wire with the fiberglass square goes under the valve cover bolt closest
to to pto end on the engine, this is for use on a gocart application to run a wire from to a kill button uder the steering wheel, the open ended wire attaches to throttle kill
behind the throttle plate. attach the plug end to tab on the coil.

sceptre,

 
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08-08-04, 08:53 PM   #5  
slo5oh
So if both are for "killing the spark" then I should have spark if they are not hooked to anything??

 
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08-08-04, 10:36 PM   #6  
i just put in a coil on a 10 hp tecumseh with points. coil primary: one end goes to ground the other to points bolt. coil secondary to plug wire. sears ran a kill wire from points bolt to ignition switch. when you turn ignition switch off this wire goes thru switch to another wire grounding to block. when you turn key on there is no continuity between ground and kill wire, the one wire coming off coil is kill wire and the other sounds like it may be the switch. kill wire goes to switch. switch goes to ground. i used an ohmeter to help me figure out what sears was doing.

 
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08-09-04, 02:04 AM   #7  
Azis
http://shop.briggsandstratton.com/BS...ngineType=0036
I used type 0036 from another engine I am working on but the parts list mentions types below and above 0500.

 
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08-09-04, 03:05 PM   #8  
Does this engine have points & condensor? Generally, only point ignition engines utilize a insulator block (a half-inch square "board") as a means to get the kill wire from the points to the kill switch. This "board" is really not even needed though. You merely need to run a wire from the condensor directly to the kill switch. What type of switch does this engine have? Likely it is incorporated into the speed control bracket (an integral part of the fuel tank) whereas when you move the throttle control to the stop position, your throttle lever makes contact with the switch. On the backside of the switch is where the wire will connect. It is "spring-loaded" where you simply push in a tab and slip in the kill wire. If you want to keep it simple, remove all wires from the condensor (except the one that is an integral part of the coil) and install a stop tab under one of the head bolts.

 
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