John Deere F525 start problem

Reply

  #1  
Old 08-13-04, 07:06 AM
stnbenn
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
John Deere F525 start problem

My first time posting, be gentle.... I have a John Deere F525 front mount mower, bought new in 1993, 48" cut, 17 hp Kawasaki gas, hydrostatic drive. Last week it quit while I was mowing. Turned electric Pto off and pressed down brake pedal to start. Started right up but died as soon as I let up on pedal. Checked the brake/neutral switch with ohmeter and it was fine. The metal tab actuator on the pedal is making the switch ok. There are two relays in the engine compartment and both check out ok (put 12 volts to their coil and contacts work fine with continuity check) they are both the same number and configuration so switched them but no help. The seat switch is fine.

I do not have a tech manual with a schematic of the wiring. The manual sold for $21.50 when the mower was new, now John Deere thinks it's worth $115.00 if you need it. (if I can't find the problem it may very well be worth it)! Went to the John Deere site and found a pictorial diagram of the wiring harness and it's components and didn't see any other switches or relays that I might have missed. I have a feeling that one of the relays or it's wiring is the problem. I beleive the contacts on the relay should be a holding circuit around the brake/neutral switch after the motor starts. I'm a liscensed electrician and my buddies at work are really giving me the works over this simple problem, though none of them volunteers to help set me straight or get it running. Any ideas? Thanks, Stan in Michigan
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 08-13-04, 01:35 PM
Azis
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
I have been able to find and buy full service manuals for John Deere on Ebay for 12 bucks, might look if your interested in one.
I have had some headaches of my own with JD electrical, and always wind up more or less just following wires looking for problems. Broken spade terminals coroded connectors not making connection.....
Does it run as long as you hold the brake down? If when you let it up and it dies can u push it back down and keep it running? If so it sounds like your problem might be the brake pedal or linkage hitting or moving something else because the brake safety switch will only cut out the starting circuit. It should only keep the starter from engaging the engine not keep the engine from running. Wish I could be of more help but sounds like u have a headbanger going
 
  #3  
Old 08-13-04, 11:00 PM
stnbenn
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
[QUOTE=Azis]I have been able to find and buy full service manuals for John Deere on Ebay for 12 bucks, might look if your interested in one.
I have had some headaches of my own with JD electrical, and always wind up more or less just following wires looking for problems. Broken spade terminals coroded connectors not making connection.....
Does it run as long as you hold the brake down? If when you let it up and it dies can u push it back down and keep it running? If so it sounds like your problem might be the brake pedal or linkage hitting or moving something else because the brake safety switch will only cut out the starting circuit. It should only keep the starter from engaging the engine not keep the engine from running. Wish I could be of more help but sounds like u have a headbanger going ''

Thanks for the reply.
Yes it will stay running as long as the pedal is held down. I have searched for the last two days on E bay and other searches for a manual or schematic with no luck.
 
  #4  
Old 08-14-04, 09:17 AM
Azis
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Found one on Ebay, 60 bills but thats half price from new

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...90688&tc=photo
 
  #5  
Old 08-15-04, 01:44 AM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,815
If it doesn't get the signal that you are on the seat, it will still run as long as the blades are off and the clutch is pressed, but if you release the clutch, it will die. Sounds like a problem with the seat switch and/or the related circuit.
 
  #6  
Old 08-15-04, 07:04 AM
stnbenn
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Azis
Found one on Ebay, 60 bills but thats half price from new

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...90688&tc=photo
Thanks Azis, I bought the manual that you found. I looked and looked with searches for two days but couldn't find anything. Maybe I can fix this mower when I know what the electrical layout is. After the mowing season is over, I have to tear into my John Deere F 935 Diesel mower that is giving me ground speed problems. Can only get about 5mph in forward and maybe 1mph in reverse. Have adjusted linkage but think I might have pump problems. Anyway thanks much for your help, Stan
 
  #7  
Old 08-15-04, 07:10 AM
stnbenn
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by cheese
If it doesn't get the signal that you are on the seat, it will still run as long as the blades are off and the clutch is pressed, but if you release the clutch, it will die. Sounds like a problem with the seat switch and/or the related circuit.
Thanks Cheese, I'll double check that. I jumped the seat switch but maybe the wiring has a break in it somewhere. I'll let you guys know if I get this beast under control. This is a great site and is a real service to us who need it. Stan
 

Last edited by stnbenn; 08-15-04 at 09:33 AM.
  #8  
Old 08-15-04, 10:58 AM
Azis
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
I think most of the seat switches on JD can not be tested by jumping them, some sort of "shunt" or other magic them fellas with the number pads came up with. I was not aware that it would start with the switch bad however.

Glad ya got a manual, hope ya got a safe place for it as all that yellow on the cover must be gold!!!!
 
  #9  
Old 08-15-04, 08:13 PM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,815
Yep, it should start as long as the pedal is depressed as far as I remember, regardless of wether the seat switch is activated or not. As Azis said, I believe your system will probably not be able to be bypassed by jumping the switch connectors.
 
  #10  
Old 08-17-04, 10:44 AM
stnbenn
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Boys I finally got the F525 John Deere to work. The PTO has a fuse protecting it. When this fused circuit is not complete, you will be able to start the mower when depressing the brake but the engine will die when releasing the brake. I found a loose connection at the fuse block (causing my intermittent problem) and tightened up the friction grip on the connector and away she went. The fuse is a 20amp. and is the third one down from the top. If the fuse blows from a bad (shorting) PTO you will get the same condition. I don't fully understand the circuitry but Deere must have designed it that way for safety and liability reasons.

Here's what I have learned from this problem. Buy the tech manual when you buy the mower because the price later on when you need it has increased 600%. Thanks to Azis and Cheese for all the help. I will be back for more help on a ground speed problem on my F935 diesel mower. Thanks all and happy mowing, Stan in Michigan
 
  #11  
Old 08-17-04, 10:59 AM
Azis
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Rite On Stn
Great detective work, have a cold one and an Icebag fer ya noggin
 
  #12  
Old 08-18-04, 12:13 AM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,815
Good job! Thanks for letting us know the outcome!
 
  #13  
Old 10-11-07, 01:24 AM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 3
Troubles with my F525

Hi hope somebody can help us down under. We have a F525 it seems to have an electrical problem with the blades cutting out intermitingly I changed the switch now i have all the switch wires confused can some one tell me which coloured wire goes where and another electical problem starts OK put foot on break and the mower dies happened several times please help.
thanks bob
 
  #14  
Old 10-12-07, 01:20 AM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,815
The wires for the PTO switch are out of the connector? I don't have a diagram that would show which wire goes where in the connector. I have customers with 525s, and could make a note of the wiring setup next time one comes in to be worked on if you don't get the info you need before then.
 
  #15  
Old 10-13-07, 10:27 PM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 3
Yes i think i need that to find out who has one and could list for me which wire goes in which connector
thanks
 
  #16  
Old 10-13-07, 10:31 PM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 3
:wall yes the wires are out of the connector
 
  #17  
Old 06-28-13, 11:45 AM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 4
F525 safety circuit

Bumping this thread. I am having a similar problem. I can start the engine when the break switch is pressed, but as soon as I release the brake/switch the engine stops. How to I test to see if its the seat switch without buying a new one? can I jumper it?
 
  #18  
Old 06-28-13, 06:55 PM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,815
Put an ohmmeter on the switch and press on it and let off and see if you have continuity and not in relation to activating the switch. If not, the switch is bad.
 
  #19  
Old 06-29-13, 04:42 PM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 4
Thanks for you help Cheese. I dont have the means to measure resistance. I disconnected the wire connector from the switch and put a volt meter on it. When I release the brake the voltage jumps to about 14.5V. Does that mean the relay is closing and the switch needs to be replaced?
 
  #20  
Old 06-29-13, 05:10 PM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 4
One other questions for you. Is there anyway I can jump it until the switch arrives? The lawn is getting long.
 
  #21  
Old 06-29-13, 07:14 PM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,815
I can't recall what type of system this has. Are there 2 wires going to the switch, or 4? Some switches can be bypassed by jumping the terminals, some can't and have to have the wires disconnected from the plug.
 
  #22  
Old 06-30-13, 08:54 AM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 4
Got the new seat switch, but it seems impossible to replace. Anyone have experience replacing it? It seems the switch needs to push up, but the metal crossbar is in the way.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes