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Suzuki Generator problem - not stable...carb?


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09-05-04, 05:56 PM   #1  
white_elephant
Suzuki Generator problem - not stable...carb?

Hi all, great forum

I recently bought two very grimy suzuki SE700a generators

(http://shop.pescaenautica.com.br/ima...rsuzuki700.jpg)

from a carboot sale for 8, on the premise that one worked and the other was for spares.
When I start the engine, it starts, but sounds very unstable (reving up and down) and then eventually after about 30 seconds just sputters out and stops, with a few backfires. Is this a carburettor problem??
I have a very minimal knowledge of engines, but I would really like to have a go at fixing this, if just for personal satisfaction!
Any help would be greatly appreciated

blue skies,
Chris

 
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09-05-04, 06:31 PM   #2  
fcapt10
Suzuki generator

Sounds like it could possibly be the carb but I had the same type problem and rebuilt the carb and still had the prob so I tried a magneto and it cured the problem. Hope this helps!

 
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09-06-04, 04:30 AM   #3  
white_elephant
Hi - thanks for the prompt reply, much appreciated

Which part of my generator is the carburettor? Is it the rectangular plastic block on the side?

and also, what is a magneto and how can I fix it?

blue skies,
Chris

 
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09-06-04, 09:15 AM   #4  
EarthMother
Suzuki generator carb problem

Wait!! Before you go changing parts ...ALWAYS do more troubleshooting. If this generator sat up for any length of time, there are many things to consider. There are 2-3 adjustments on the carb alone, BUT the rough running could be something else or a combination or two or more. It could even be old fuel (and something else). I'd wonder about anyone who gave you instant definitive advice from gazing into a crystal ball. Do a search online for Suzuki engine repair manuals, go to Barnes and Noble or BooksAMillion and invest in a repair manual for Suzuki engines. This would be a good way to begin your understanding of your problem. If you don't know beans about mechanical repairs and don't want to, spend the money and have a pro look at it. Most shops will give you an estimate before doing the work. That estimate may cost a few dollars but may be money well spent.

 
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09-06-04, 04:14 PM   #5  
white_elephant
Hi there,

Again, thankyou all so much for the responses!

Earthmother, I take your point, as I am an audio engineer for a living and often amplifiers have a combination of things which stop them from operating.
I'd really like to have a go at fixing this myself....I can't find much about suzuki engines on the web, which is a surprise to me.
The fuel which i used had been sitting in my garden (in proper containers - tetracans) which were screwed very tightly, for about a month.....so i doubt this could be the problem.
I have been researching about carbs, and have found that there are some adjustments to make to the mixture - could someone clarify what the two screws do??
thanks,

blue skies,
Chris

 
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09-06-04, 04:25 PM   #6  
EarthMother
Carburetor info

http://www.geocities.com/strim01/carbadjust1.jpg

Check out this page. I received this info from BSTheyAre

 
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09-06-04, 09:48 PM   #7  
Azis
Hi Chris,
It does sound like you may have a carb problem, although with gens there are also some pressure cutout switches and other engineering I am not experienced enuff with.
I couldn't find anything free online for reference, but I did run across this you may be interested in. A shop Service manual.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WD1V

Its an ebay listing but not a bid item, the selling store has there info there if ya want one.
Good luck!

 
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09-07-04, 07:09 AM   #8  
white_elephant
Suzuki

Hi Azis, thanks for the link
Although the manual would be very useful, I live in England, and there's allsorts of problems with customs export/import taxes and whatnot from the USA. I'm going to try and read up on carburettors, and maybe try taking it apart and cleaning the bowl.

Yesterday I tried changing the oil for some lovely new fresh motor oil, which didn't make much difference!!

Just a thought - there is a small sign on top of the fuel tank which says the engine takes regular or unleaded petrol, i've filled the tank with unleaded....would it be worth a try with regular, 4 star LRP??

That said, however, any more advice and help would be greatly appreciated!

blue skies,
Chris

 
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09-07-04, 09:48 AM   #9  
Azis
Regular or unleaded fuel should not make a difference, (U can still get Regular leaded fuel? )
Seems ur in a bit of a pinch on that rock, I did find some theory pages on carbs you may be interested in.

http://www.dansmc.com/carbs2.htm
http://www.nitrorc.com/articles/carb/default.asp

Keep in mind these are general, different manufactures and different applications require some different engineering and things like throttle position changes from one circuit to the other may not be exact.
Good luck n happy reading!

 
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09-08-04, 12:24 AM   #10  
I believe you do have a carb problem. Especially if they sat unused for a period of months. You'll need to disassemble the carb and clean it well.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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10-11-04, 06:51 AM   #11  
white_elephant
sorry bout the wait!

Hey guys,
Sorry for leaving this topic for so long, I've been away for a while on holiday Had a great time but as soon as I got back work began... Ho Hum...

Took the carb off the engine and had a look and it didnt look particuarly dirty.........Anyways, I cleaned (I think) the carb using spray aerosol cleaner by taking it apart and spraying the stuff as well as I could in the big hole that goes all the way through, and also in the bowl, and there seemed to be what look like tiny holes about the size of hairs all the way through the main hole (the one which goes from the air filter into the cylinder - is this a venturi?).

SAME PROBLEM!!

The air filter is a long black plastic thing with loads of foam inside, which is soaked in oil! Should it be like this?? I was thinking, how can the air get in, if the foam is soaked in oil?? There's a little tube that comes from the engine to the air filter which looks as if it is supplying oil to it. Cant figure out why though..... Please tell me if this is wrong and I shall maybe try starting the engine without the air filter, although this is quite hard because the air filter kinda clamps the carb onto the engine with two very long bolts.

Any thoughts?

Thanks very much for your help and blue skies,
Chris D.

 
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10-12-04, 12:30 AM   #12  
The foam should be saturated with oil, then squeezed out, to leave an oily film on the foam but not soaked.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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11-01-04, 08:21 AM   #13  
white_elephant
Hey again,
AGAIN, i'm so sorry for just leaving and not replying for a while, I feel so rude! The thing is, at the moment my computer is broken (wrong forum for that ooops) so I'm in internet cafes whenever I have the cash.

Anyways, The initial problem is fixed, all that was needed was a new spark plug and cap, I took the genny to a garage and they put the new plug and cap in for 5 (About 10 dollars) and said the spark gap was far too big and there was no compression....? At the moment it runs well, produces power of sorts and doesn't stop.
However, the problem I have now is that when the choke is off, the engine sounds as if it is surging, like a hot rod revving up! When it does this i'm a bit scared to plug anything in! If I give it a bit of choke, normally about halfway, the engine runs smoothly but sounds far too fast; much less of a put put noise and more of an overspeeding sound. I plugged in a record-deck turntable (good voltage checker in the absence of a multimeter!) and it seemed to be going a bit too fast. Is there any way I can slow it down? It seems silly to have to run it at half choke as well.

thanks,
blue skies,
Chris

 
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11-01-04, 11:06 AM   #14  
Azis
You may be able to get it to smooth out with a carb adjustment. Try turning the mixture jet CCW 1/4 turn or so at a time.
Also a turntable is not much of a draw, kina like takin a dump truck to get groceries Try plugging a drill motor or circular saw or some type of electric motor into it. You may find when it has a load on it, it will smooth out also.

 
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10-17-07, 12:36 PM   #15  
Need Parts

I have a Suzuki SE700a generastor that needs a coil. It appears that these are no longer available. Please let me know if you have one and what the price might be.

 
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01-07-08, 10:45 AM   #16  
Posted By: white_elephant Hi there,

Again, thankyou all so much for the responses!

Earthmother, I take your point, as I am an audio engineer for a living and often amplifiers have a combination of things which stop them from operating.
I'd really like to have a go at fixing this myself....I can't find much about suzuki engines on the web, which is a surprise to me.
The fuel which i used had been sitting in my garden (in proper containers - tetracans) which were screwed very tightly, for about a month.....so i doubt this could be the problem.
I have been researching about carbs, and have found that there are some adjustments to make to the mixture - could someone clarify what the two screws do??
thanks,

blue skies,
Chris
Chris

The two screws you are referring to are 1- the air/fuel mixture screw, this screw allows air and fuel to be run thru the carb at the same time, 2- this other screw is for your idle --this allows the generator to idle at peak performance. If you phone a suzuki generator dealership ask what the idle should be at.


Last edited by ducati998; 01-07-08 at 10:53 AM. Reason: forgot something
 
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01-07-08, 10:56 AM   #17  
[QUOTE=ducati998;1290235]Chris

The two screws you are referring to are 1- the air/fuel mixture screw, this screw allows air and fuel to be run thru the carb at the same time, 2- this other screw is for your idle --this allows the generator to idle at peak performance. If you phone a suzuki generator dealership ask what the idle should be at. If you ask they will be able to tell you what to turn the idle screw in and the air/fuel screw, you screw both in until they seat themselves (until you cann't turn anymore, but not to hard),then when you find out the settings you unscrew the air/fuel like one turn( example), and the idle 1.5 turns out examples. Hope this hepls you

 
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02-18-08, 10:08 AM   #18  
Am not familiar with the 700, but the carb problem with my SE 500A is a bad reed valve. Would put in a carb rebuild kit, if I could find one. Don't know whether the 700 has reed valves but I think that it may have two (the 500A has one). I agee with all of Ducati's comments, especially starting with 1 1/2 turns.

 
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