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Help Wanted:Power Washer Leak Diagnosis


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09-10-04, 06:39 PM   #1  
2dynamic
Help Wanted:Power Washer Leak Diagnosis

Hello,

I'm a little comfortable with disassembling and reassemblig equipment. But I am a little nervous about tackling finding the water leak on my power washer.
It's a 2300 PSI Ex-Cell DeVilbiss 4830 cu 6 HP (Briggs and Stratton) Model EXVRB2321. Anyway, last month I had depressurized the unit to start it up and had the water hose on- spraying air through the nozzle and waiting for the unit to prime- in other words sporadic jets of spray where coming through- but not steady pressure. Anyway- this went on for 3 minutes or so and then boom- and hiss I see water shooting out kind-of near the muffler near the engine. But when I did a bit of disassmbling- I did notice that the plastic cover around the pump on the bottom had an opening under the muffler- when I took the muffler and bottom cover off. I just can't see anything - gasket- anything that would point to a leak? Should I turn it back on- the engine was churning away and I had to turn the engine off- while the water was shooting everywhere. Should I scrap the unit or go for trying to fix it? Any ideas or suggestions where I might find recommended tear down sequence for this pump or typical pump? I would really like to save this thing- only had about 50 hours on it and it was $275.00 or so.
Thanks (sorry so long) Bill


Last edited by 2dynamic; 09-10-04 at 06:53 PM.
 
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09-10-04, 08:59 PM   #2  
Hello Bill!

50 hours is pretty good for one of those wahsers from what I can tell by my experience working on them. If the engine is still good, you could just buy a replacement pump for it, or if you want, tear it down and find out what went wrong. I mean, it's not worth anything now anyway, so what are you going to hurt? Check the unloader valve and the pressure pop-off valve. Either could have come unscrewed and blown out, or the pop-off valve is made to blow and release the pressure before it gets dangerously high. You might just be able to replace it. If that's what went wrong, I would also replace the unloader valve because SOMETHING caused the pressure to build too high to blow the pop-off. The unloader would be the most likely culprit.


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