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Stihl FS80 Trimmer still no spark


Old man's Avatar
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09-12-04, 09:58 PM   #1  
Old man
Stihl FS 80 Trimmer Ignition problem

I have an older fs 80 stihl trimmer, it has always been a good one. This year it will not start, and I think I need to check ignition system. It seems there is no spark at the plug or the points, I am thinking a bad condenser possibly.

Does anyone know the specs for the point settings and the plug gap. I do not have the manual for this. Also any other ideas as to why it will not start?

Thanks,
Mike

 
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09-13-04, 12:28 AM   #2  
I don't have a manual, but the plug should be .030", and the points will probably be just right, or close enough at .020".


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09-13-04, 01:48 AM   #3  
Old man
Thank you, I thought those settings should be about right.
Do you know if there is a way to check the coil without taking everything apart? Also, could there be anything else to check as to why I get no spark?

My son borrowed this last fall, and he told me, he put it away for the winter just like I always have, but this spring he could not get it started. So he comes bringing it back in this condition, [kids, don't you just love'em]
If you have any other ideas on things to check, it will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike

 
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09-13-04, 05:37 PM   #4  
Old man
Stihl FS80 Trimmer still no spark

My fs80 has no spark. I have it apart and found it was full of dirt and oil fouled around the coil and flywheel gap, so I cleaned it good, now before I put it back together, how do I check the coil to make sure it is good?
Also the coil mounts to the front cover, and the flywheel stays with the engine, so how do I set an air gap when you can't see it, and do I need to time this as it goes back together?
This is an older one, with points and condenser, so the dealer is no help, says no parts are available, it is obsolete, I need a new one. Well, that is probably true, but it has always ran fine and if I can get it running again, I will be happy. The dealer says to convert to solid state ignition, the module is 100.00$ and the trimmer is not worth it.

What say ye? Can anyone help? Or am I riding a dead horse?

Thanks,
Mike

 
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09-14-04, 12:38 AM   #5  
Have you replaced the points, condenser, and plug? You can install an ATOM module on this trimmer. They are electronic ignition conversion modules and they run around $20.00. Your coil has to be good for it to work though. I don't have any specs on the internal coil resistance readings to tell if it's any good or not.


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09-14-04, 03:30 PM   #6  
Old man
Thanks for the info on the ATOM module, Do you know where this module can be obtained? I will keep looking for the test on the coil, as I don't have a manual either. The dealers do not have points and condenser for these and just say they are obsolete, buy a new one.

Thanks,
Mike

 
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09-14-04, 07:03 PM   #7  
Azis
General test on the coil, test the resistance on the high tension lead to ground (stack) on the coil. Most should fall somewhere between 2k to 8k ohms. If in that range I would venture using it to confirm good or bad.

 
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09-14-04, 10:11 PM   #8  
Old man
Do you mean from the plug wire to the other little wire coming from the coil?
My mutimeter only goes to 1k ohm. Or do you mean from the plug wire to the metal pieces that will be by the flywheel?
I am sorry if I sound kind of stupid, but mechanical I can understand, electrical I get a little lost.
Please explain-stack--

Thanks,
Mike

 
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09-14-04, 10:18 PM   #9  
Azis
The metal pieces...which by the way should have continuity to the little wire also. That is your kill wire.

 
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09-14-04, 10:55 PM   #10  
Old man
OK, I think I understand now. From the plug wire to the stack shoud be between 2 and 8 k ohms and from the stack to the kill wire should show continuity also.
Now how do I set the air gap to the flywheel, the coil comes off with front cover and the flywheel stays put. there is no window or inspection cover to see or measure a gap.

I will go out and check the coil as best I can, right now.
Back later. I am a night owl.

Thank you so very much,
Mike

 
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09-14-04, 11:28 PM   #11  
Old man
OK, I get around 6900 to 7100 ohms from the plug wire to the stack,
and I get continuity from the kill wire [ the little wire ] to the stack.
So that means the coil is worth a shot at keeping ?
I borrowed a better meter from a neighbor and got the readings.

Now I guess I need to replace the points and condenser with one of ATOM's Ignition modules, If I can find one.

Am I right so far??

Thanks,
Mike

 
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09-15-04, 12:29 AM   #12  
Sounds like you're on the right track!

If you haven't moved the coil on it's adjustment screws, it should be ok where it is. If you have, match up the marks from the screws where it was screwed on before.

Most small engine shops should have or be able to get the atom module. I have seen them online too.


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09-15-04, 10:39 AM   #13  
Azis
I have yet to use one but good feather in hat stuff. Found a place to buy online http://www.smallenginebusiness.com/M...gory_Code=61-2 still looking for manufacturer info.
Cheese do you happen to know who (or one of) manufactures, does it come with mounting instructions or suggestions?
Looks perty straight forward, sheet metal screw and couple wirenuts or splices?

 
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09-15-04, 11:06 PM   #14  
Old man
I really want to thank everyone for the help and advice, but I could not find an ATOM module anywhere around me. I did find a NOVA module for 2 cycle and now I have spark at the plug, but it won't fire up. When it does try to fire it pops back through the carb. so I guess it is not working on the stihl right.
It is not much spark, but it is blue, the instructions with the NOVA said it will not work with more than one magnet on the flywheel, and it looks like I have 4, 2 small and 2 a little bigger. I don't know if that makes a big difference or not.
I will keep looking for an Atom, but I don't have any other ideas. Sounds like it did not time right with the engine.

Anyone care to guess? All advice is greatly appreciated.
Guess I will go today and buy a new one, maybe a Stihl FS110.

Thanks,
Mike

 
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09-16-04, 01:32 AM   #15  
Azis
Did you try this link? http://www.smallenginebusiness.com/M...gory_Code=61-2
Says its the ATOM module for chainsaws and trimmers. 18 bucks n change...800 phone # or order online....

 
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09-16-04, 09:29 AM   #16  
Old man
Azis, no I did not see the link until I got back from getting the NOVA. Do you know if the NOVA is compatible or not with my trimmer? It does not seem so,since it fires but coughs back thru the carb.

Thanks,
Mike

 
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09-16-04, 10:16 AM   #17  
Azis
Sorry Mike I really dont know. I have heard of these modules but have not had the situation that required using one yet. I did do some searching online for information (not in depth searching more like browsing) but did not turn up anything. I was hoping Cheese could provide some more info. Puey may be on vaca or something or I am sure he could give some info as well.
The Tulsa engine site I posted had a 800 phone #, perhaps you could call and ask as to the compatability on your application. Being an electrical part and most likely non-returnable, I would want at least verbal confirmation that it would work on your application before purchasing.

I just called my local Stihl dealer, (I happen to know and trust quite well) he told me while he may not be able to order parts direct for your trimmer he does stock the points and condensor that will work on your unit but may have to match em up by looking at them. I also asked about the module, he said the stihl module is 55 bucks and the universal one is 16.95. Universal module claims to work on anything with points, (stocks and has used both) the main difference being mounting and connections.
I dont know what area you are in or how many small engine repair options you have, but it may be worth the time to look around for a shop that repairs all types of equipment instead of a specialized service dealer. Surely there is a good ole boy around that will help ya

 
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09-17-04, 02:00 AM   #18  
Old man
Thanks Azis, I have checked around and everybody I talk to says, it is not worth the trouble to convert. I guess that means they would rather sell you a new one. Ha-Ha.

Well, if your dealer has the points and condenser, and a module that he says will work, that would be great. I will look around here some more [Indianapolis, Indiana] to see if I can get it locally, but so far 3 Stihl Dealers have said the same thing, they want me to trash it.

Would it be possible for you to give me your dealers name and location so if I cannot locate anything here, maybe I can order from him? I will call the 800 # and see if they can help.


Thanks,
Mike

 
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09-17-04, 09:25 AM   #19  
Azis
Shoot me an email if ya like. [email protected]

Sure hope this little trimmer appreciates all the love your giving it LOL

 
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09-17-04, 11:44 PM   #20  
Old man
I found one, an ATOM module. I went about 20 miles farther out into the boonies than I am in. An honest to gosh, good guy. A Stihl dealer had the Atom Module in stock and said it is compatible with my trimmer, well we shall see.

Azis, as far as the love for the trimmer goes, it is way past that. I am on a quest. The reason to buy stihl is for a lifetime of usefullness, and I can't see throwing a good little motor away, because of one little part.

I once had a scooter from Germany that I could not get points and condenser for. I rode it into the dealer and showed him it ran fine on 1953 Ford points and condenser, just had to move the mounting hole.

I will get this installed and let you all know the results. Thanks for all the help, and try not to be as hardheaded as I am.

Thanks,
Mike

 
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09-18-04, 02:38 AM   #21  
Azis
LOL well I bet that thing winds up cuttin rug long after you are Good luck with it and thx fer the update.

 
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09-21-04, 01:19 AM   #22  
Azis,

I didn't see your question several posts up until now. Yes, just a small screw and tap into the points wire to the armature and ground if I remember right. It's been years since I installed one.


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09-21-04, 08:25 AM   #23  
the doc
fs80 ign

mike .. atom ignitions are colour coded, brown is the one you will need..when you have the air gap set properly.blue or white wire to ground,depending what sparks,other to stop wire via switch and coil connector. magneto's 2or3
magnets on the flywheel,coils 2 or 3 fields depend on a magnet....say......
N.S.N or S.N.S poles or N.S or S.N for 2 pole systems either way it still puts out an ac voltage to trip the coil. all the atom system is, is a switch to replace the mechanical breaker points and power storage (condenser)to a capasitor.hense the term. CDI . capasitor discharge ignition most 2 stroke saws trimmers will run on all removable modules from other models.I have fitted Victa 2 stroke lawn mower modules(Australian) to lots of briggs honda
techumsie 4 strokes , they are good around heat and high r,p,m on 2 strokes
where the atom plastic case may tend to melt..But really an FS 80 was a good engine,the choise of the TK 1 carby is let down. Honestly Mike I dont let them in my shop anymore.youre a brave man to entertain the things.
best of luck. dave thedoc

 
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09-22-04, 12:57 PM   #24  
Old man
the doc, well that air gap is what I am fighting now. I had spark with the atom module but it looked a little weak, and I had removed the coil to clean everything, so I started moving the coil around to find the optimum setting.
I guess I should have left it alone now I have lost the spark and can't seem to get it gapped.
If anyone can tell me how it will be appreciated, it looks like a trial and error system since the coil comes off with the front cover.

But I will beat it yet, if it can be built, it can be repaired.

Thanks,
Mike

 
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