15HP I/C OHV Single Cyl Briggs Starting issue.

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  #1  
Old 10-04-04, 07:48 AM
moparmaniac
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15HP I/C OHV Single Cyl Briggs Starting issue.

Hello, I just found this site and you guys seem pretty knowledgable so I'm asking for your help.

I have a 10 yr old Yardman That has an I/C 15hp OHV Briggs Engine 1 cyl.

My folks were having problems with getting it started..even with a new battery...We tried charging it and it would turn til it hit compression then stop.

Had the bat. load tested showed 11.7V 6cca, dead battery.

Bought a new battery, brought it home bench charged it for 5hrs and put it in..Had to hit the start 2 times before it started rotating the engine.


But it cranked fast enough that it started.

About 20 min later, it ran out of gas...was a few minutes later before i jumped back on after refilling.

No start...tried about 25 times before it finally turned over enough to start.

Didn't have time to check the battery voltage after that problem.

I did have the starter off and bench tested it. it would spin up every time. the amperage was showing 20-25 amperes....Is this enough for these little starters?

I'm wondering if it was a little too weak.

Do you have any suggestions as to what might be problem...don't want to dump money on a starter if it's something else...

I have a new solenoid to put on tonight and see if that is part of the problem.

if you can, e-mail me at [email protected]

Thanks in advance for your help.
 
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  #2  
Old 10-04-04, 08:28 PM
Azis
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Check all your connections for corosion from the battery to the solenoid and the starter and grounds.
You may just have a belt draging during start or an idler pulley that has seized. Depending on your drive how many pulleys and your belt routing. Even a deck spindle getting bad with a new belt.
Some hydrostatic drives have a plastic idler pulley under the panel in front of the seat that often goes bad.
 
  #3  
Old 10-04-04, 09:47 PM
moparmaniac
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I took the deck off tonight to put on new blades and prep the deck for a mulcher kit....the mower is a 7spd manual and the trans was disengaged...

As soon as I took the deck off I tried starting...thinking of the belt dragging issue, but same thing.

I had cleaned up all the cables including the solenoid and starter when I had taken them off to inspect and test...i might recheck the ground to the chassis though..only thing i didn't clean ..but I remember that it wasn't corroded just a little surface rust.

The solenoid isn't clicking rapidly..just once per hit of the key so i think that's good....

I just seems to make one crank before compression then stops...will try to test more tomorrow...
 
  #4  
Old 10-04-04, 10:29 PM
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Hello moparmaniac!

I like your handle....I was a Dodge tech at a dealership several years ago.

Your problem is valve adjustments. You've described classic symptoms of loose valves. It's easy to fix, just pull the valve cover off (four 3/8" bolts) and use a 10mm wrench to loosen the rocker arm nuts, and a torx to adjust the set screw in the center of the rocker nuts. Set the intake to .003" and the exhaust to .005" and you should be good to go.
 
  #5  
Old 10-05-04, 08:17 AM
moparmaniac
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Ok..took the cover off and indeed there is more play than should be there...

question is..one valve sits on top..one on bottom..which is intake, which is exhaust??

Sorry if it's a dumb question...
 
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Old 10-05-04, 09:46 AM
Azis
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Look at the ports and passages, the exhaust leads to the muffler and the intake leads to the intake/carb.
 
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Old 10-05-04, 11:23 AM
moparmaniac
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Thanks..I'll reset the valves again...i just put them at .005 thinking that would be acceptable tolerance on both of them...

While I was waiting for a response on the valves..I took off the starter again and this time i took it apart....I didn't look that messy to me but I took it off and polished all the windings to a sparkling shine and cleaned up all the bushings..they were all really greased over...you know that caked on grease...

Anyway..after fighting the brushes, got it back together and held my breath and turned the key....voila!!! She fired up!!

I dunno if the connections inside the starter were weak or what but anyway...she'll start the mower now!! Now I just hope that it'll keep that way for a while! Thanks everyone.

One thing though now..i tested the battery reading while running at full throttle..and it still only shows 12.6V...what all is there that might need looking into as far as charging the battery??
 
  #8  
Old 10-06-04, 12:24 AM
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.005" is acceptable for both valves, but it's at the very limit of acceptable clearance for the intake valve.

Did you get this voltage reading immediately after starting? Depending on the charging system your engine is equipped with, you may show a low reading to begin with and as the engine runs longer it will continue to build. The charge wires are probably red and white coming from under the flywheel near the starter. A common problem is that one or both of these wires gets pinched behind the starter during starter reinstallation and grounds it out.
 
  #9  
Old 10-06-04, 08:28 PM
moparmaniac
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Long, but please read though

Well another day another problem...First off, thanks for everyone's comments...

Well I got everything back together tonight...and here are the remaining issues...

The voltage reading I took was pretty much after startup....I do have an ammeter gauge on the mower and it does move with rpm's so hopefully it's charging.

5,6,7th gear...are slipping to the point that the mower stops..I have to push in the clutch and restart it to get it going again..lower gears are fine..

This is all after doing adjustments on the variable speed rod and gear selector rod. (I had this problem before the adjustments too) Belt? (looks ok to me..not frayed or anything...) Variable speed pully worn?? Mower is 10 yrs old.

Next, I keep getting a pool of oil under the front of the motor after I run it every time...not just a little drop, but a puddle....enough to run off the frame if it's at an angle. Any Common issues with the Briggs OHV I/C engines? Anyone have an idea where it's coming from or an easy fix without pulling the motor?

Next...got all new bearings and new blades...took the deck totally apart and took my air grinder and a steel wheel and cleaned the whole deck. Adjusted the deck as best I could tell....

When I mowed a path, you can definately tell there are two distinct strips...Do those spindle shafts bend easily?

I noticed that the one pulley on one side has a ever so slight wobble to it..could this be the culprit?

I looked underneath the deck and best i can tell with the two blades right next to each other, on one side they're even, turn them 180 degrees and one is I'd say about a 1/8th of an inch lower....wouldn't think that would make that major of a mark while mowing..but you can definately see one...

Is it possible to over compensate on the deck leveling to off set this issue??

Any help and ideas appreciated!! I've spent 2 whole days working on this thing and I want it to work right..not all jerry rigged...thanks
 
  #10  
Old 10-08-04, 01:23 AM
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Sounds like belt problems as far as the gears goes. It could be worn belts, or linkage/pulley problems. No way to tell without seeing it.

As for the oil, is the engine overfilled with oil? Does the oil smell like gas? The carb can leak and thin the oil to a point that it leaks past the seals and gaskets. Also, the sump cover gasket on these engines can develop leaks fairly commonly. The lower crankshaft seal can be the cause too. You'll have to clean it up and check for the source of the leak.

If the deck is too low in the front, it will leave streaks. If the blades are turning too slowly, it will also cause this. As will worn or incorrect blades, or upside down blades.
 
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