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broken rod - tecumseh


wendl's Avatar
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10-22-04, 03:17 PM   #1  
broken rod - tecumseh

Opened up my 10 hp snowblower engine - found the piston rod in two pieces. Spoke directly with Tecumseh, a new engine is an 11 hp to replace costs $700 cdn.

Tried going to a short block - tecumseh does not make one for a 10hp.

Tried finding a used engine - no luck to date.

If I replace the rod, how can I know the block is not cracked and/or crankshaft damaged, without going thru all this work beforehand. (rod did not go thru block)

Its ~ 10 yrs old, HM100 with 3/4" shaft, w/electric start.

Not sure what the next step is...should be ?


 
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10-22-04, 07:28 PM   #2  
wendl
The main thing to look for is that the rod didn't damage the cylinder wall. If that's ok then I'd plan on giving the rebuild a try. If the rod popped a hole (depending on the size) or just cracked the block then you can still repair it. The crank is most likely going to have melted aluminum on it from the rod but there is a type of acid that small engine shops use to remove it, I myself just use very fine emery cloth and lots of elbow grease. I've even repaired at least a dozen of the broken rod engines that broke through the block. I just fibre glassed the broken part of the block.
If you plan on trying it let me know how you're doing.

snoman

 
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10-22-04, 07:53 PM   #3  
Azis
Cant believe Snoman forgot to give ya this manual. http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf

Either its late or he jus slippin

 
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10-23-04, 06:02 AM   #4  
azis
LOL .... I've got a good memory but it's just really short. But I knew you'd cover for me.

snoman

 
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11-29-04, 07:56 PM   #5  
OK, pulled off the manifold and sure enough a hole the size of a silver dollar (at least). Right thru the side of the block.

What are my options now

Thanks for the advice.

 
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11-30-04, 01:20 PM   #6  
wendl,
Post the spec number for that engine.
Tom

 
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11-30-04, 02:24 PM   #7  
wendl
Depending if the hole is really large and not as high as the cylinder wall then if you are good at fibre glassing it may be worth a shot. If glassing isn't something you're good at or don't feel confident enough then a new short block would probably be the way for you to go. You don't want to go through all the work of trying to fix it and finding out afterwards that it leaks. Then the possibility of messing up the engine a second time is present.
Like I said in an earlier post, the glassing is the easy part, you still have to contend with the aluminum on the crank, (and if you don't get "all" the aluminum off the crank it will destroy another rod quite quickly) plus rebuilding the engine.
So if you're confident then it may be a task worth trying, if not, you know the other option.

snoman

 
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11-30-04, 07:37 PM   #8  
looked at it again, the hole is a little bigger than the circumference of a golf ball. Don't feel good about the 'repair' option

10 hsp Tecumseh, 3/4" shaft, HM100 159182R

As always appreciate the wisdom !

 
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12-01-04, 02:24 PM   #9  
wendl
That sounds like a little more than the "average joe" should tackle. Normally I'll glass smaller holes or numerous cracks but with that much damage, I think you'd be better off with the short block route.
Sorry about that.

snoman

 
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12-01-04, 02:52 PM   #10  
I thought the short block option was eliminated in the original post........Tecumseh does not make one for the 10 HP. Is an 11 HP short block an option?

 
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12-02-04, 09:44 AM   #11  
Small engine warehouse offers a 9 HP Tec. snow king engine for $350 US and that is a complete engine. http://smallenginewarehouse.com/prod...=OHSK90ES-34TO If you can live with 1 less HP and everything else is compatible, it would be an attractive way to go.

They also offer 10 HP Tec Snow King motors for different applications for much less than the $750 Can you were quoted, of course these prices do NOT include installation.

http://smallenginewarehouse.com/Prod...plier=Tecumseh I hope this helps

 
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