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Poulan Chainsaw Drawback while Cranking


Bigwind's Avatar
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11-01-04, 08:28 PM   #1  
Poulan Chainsaw Drawback while Cranking

Can you direct me to a thread or give me some direction. I have a Poulan 2150 that was running well but began to be difficult to start. The pull cord seems to be catching and not allowing a full pull!. If you pull it real slow you can pull it but apply any force and it stops. I've dismantled it and checked everything I know to check (I'm a retired pencil pusher & am just learning to work on 2 & 4 Stroke engines). Everthing seems ok so the area I know the least about is what I suspect...Compression? Remove the spark plug and it pulls very easy. Any help will be appreciated.

 
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11-01-04, 08:35 PM   #2  
sceptre
try a new sparkplug. let us know if this works.

 
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11-01-04, 11:34 PM   #3  
Try removing the chain and see if it starts easily. Also, check the starter to see if it is wobbling when you try to start it. Sometimes the spool will shift over and bind when you pull hard enough if it is worn out.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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11-02-04, 12:57 AM   #4  
Thank you both. Sceptre: I will try a new sparkplug when the sun comes up. Cheese: I have the saw completely apart and cleaned it down to the engine & housing. The chain was not binding and has been removed. The Clutch looks like it is in good order. The pull cord housing is almost new, all is tight, the sproket is not worn and seats perfectly over the flywheel. The pawls are both working properly with their springs in good shape. ???? logically, To me who hasn't a clue, the plug should not be the problem but I am anxious to pickup a new spark plug in the morning and try it out! Thanks again to you both! I'll submit the outcome ASAP.


Last edited by Bigwind; 11-02-04 at 01:49 AM. Reason: I dropped a word
 
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11-02-04, 03:14 AM   #5  
Take a second look at the starter pulley and pawls. The pulley could have the silghtest bit of wear and cause the trouble you're having. Also, I've seen the pawls get bent slightly and cause this as well. Look closely.

 
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11-02-04, 05:15 PM   #6  
Well, After a day awaiting my now arrived first grandchild I'm back on my 2 stroke problem! I have looked the pullcord, sproket and pawls over carefully and everything looks good. Everything seems to be symetrical and there is no obvious sign of wear. I have a friend with a 2150 so I'll try using his pullcord assembly this weekend as well as a new sparkplug. If it works the problem is clearly the pullcord assembly. If it does the same thing, do you have any other suggestions? This is really baffling! When I remove the sparkplug and pull the cord it operates perfectly! With the spark plug in it will grab every time. Its more like a suction grab, it doesn't feel like a mechanical grab. No grinding, really, no sound at all???? If I knew how to use these really sad faces I would put one here.

 
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11-02-04, 08:34 PM   #7  
sceptre
there is one more thing you can look for. remove the flywheel and check the
cast- in key. when i worked for sears service i run into that problem one time.
the saw ignition was very overly advanced and caused this sudden lock-up.
this is just an idea. i hope this helps.

robert.

 
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11-02-04, 08:46 PM   #8  
Robert, that sounds like it may just be the problem. I have been thinking about Flywheel keys and how that can cause a simular problem with my B&S engines. Can you tell me how to remove the flywheel? I've removed the bolt and washer. Do I need a tool to pull it or can I tap the bolt or the flywheel and push up with a screwdriver??? This is something I have never done on a 2 stroke and I don't want to damage the thing just before I find and cure the cause. Once the Flywheel off what has to be done? What is a cast-in key? What should I look for & how can I correct it? It is something that will be obvious? Again, I really appreciate your help!

Ron

 
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11-02-04, 09:12 PM   #9  
sceptre
Ron,

i always thread the nut back on the shaft til the nut is flush with the end of the shaft. then i use two screwdrivers to carefully pry up on the flywheel.
i use my chest on one and one hand on the other, then i use my free hand
to carefully tap squarely on the end of the shaft with a hammer til the flywheel pops free. 1 to 3 taps should be enough. a flywheel puller would be best though,but i have had good results. the key on some models is either cast in or a small half moon type. i hope this help you.

robert

 
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11-02-04, 09:21 PM   #10  
Robert are you saying that the key is
replaceable
and that could correct my problem? Thanks again!
Ron

 
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11-02-04, 09:27 PM   #11  
sceptre
if the key is cast- in you will need a new flywheel if it is a halfmoon you can
replace it.

 
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11-02-04, 09:47 PM   #12  
Robert I believe I've finally got it! This has been great information. I'll be jumping on it tomorrow and I'll post what I find. It could be this weekend as my friend with the other 2150 will be here for me to test his pullcord assembly on my unit. I will also try his flywheel, if I haven't fixed it before the weekend. Those 2 things and a new sparkplug just about has to lead me to the "
Final & Best" solution. I'll post the results no matter what I find so will will all know?$%&^%&*">?
Ron

 
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11-03-04, 05:48 AM   #13  
I pulled the flywheel and the Key is cast-in. I'll just have to start replacing parts from the borrowed 2150 this weekend. As new as I am to this I don't have a gut feeling as to what the problem is! I'll just start eliminating stuff one item at the time untill I find it. Any other thoughts? Thanks again
Ron

 
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11-03-04, 07:03 PM   #14  
sceptre
ron,

check to see if the key is distorted, if it is you need to replace it.

 
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11-03-04, 08:05 PM   #15  
Sceptre, I was just sitting here looking at the flywheel. The Key is Cast-in. The key looks like it has been shaved down from its original size. The angle on the key looks like it has been shaved down and is now a few degrees less that it was. It sounds like seemingly minor wear can actually be a very large problem. I think I'll just go ahead and buy a flywheel and give it a try. This will test the key seating as well as the Pawls. I bet this will solve the problem. I'll file a report as soon as I can get it done tomorrow. Being able to get advice from you folks is really making my learning curve look a lot better. Thanks to all!
Ron

 
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11-03-04, 11:24 PM   #16  
Unless the key is sheared off, this is not the problem. I'd hate to see you throw $$ at a new flywheel and it not solve the problem. Did you try the starter assy from your friend's saw?


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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11-04-04, 01:44 AM   #17  
I appreciate it Cheese. The pin has not been shered off.
You know every $$ saved is another $$ your wife can use to get an excellent 2 for 1 deal on something, and save you that much again!
The friend and the unit will not be here untill Saturday. I might just go up to a repair shop & see if they have a unit with an assembly that I could use to try the theory?? Stay tunned for news! Thx, Ron

 
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11-05-04, 05:22 PM   #18  
I want to thank you all for your help! I took the chainsaw to one of the best repair shops in town and they said, "There is nothing that can be done. The engine just has 'GREAT' compression" . The engine runs really good but you have to be a steel worker to crank it. Please respond if you have any other suggestions. I'll wait a couple of days and then do whatever I'm suppose to do to close out this thread. This is an excellent forum and I'm sure I'll be back with more questions. Again, I really appreciate everyones help!

 
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11-05-04, 06:35 PM   #19  
Great...glad at least nothing's wrong. If you aren't already doing this, hold the saw in one hand (right if you're right handed and visa-versa) and the cord in the other. Then use both arms to start the saw. One pushing the saw away, and the other pulling the cord out. This should aid in starting.

No need to close the thread.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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11-05-04, 07:27 PM   #20  
sceptre
hey ron ,

i'm glad you got your saw running.
be careful with your new toy...
later,

 
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