14 HP Tecumseh Help

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  #1  
Old 11-23-04, 12:05 PM
JF45159
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14 HP Tecumseh Help

Hello everyone. I am new to the board. I have a 14 HP Tecumseh that I am having trouble with. To start off, it used to belong to my uncle. He rebuilt it about 2 years ago and it hasn't started since. It cranks, everything turns, getting spark,......I think I have went through the whole nine yards checking it out. The only thing that I don't know about is timing. Is it possible that the timing is messed up? If so, how do I adjust it? I had a friend tell me that it could be weak spark, but I was looking for more opinions. Any suggestions on narrowing down the problem? Thanks in advance for your help!!!
 
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Old 11-23-04, 03:20 PM
Azis
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Hello JF,
Your ignition should be solid state which has no timing adjustment per say. The only thing to check if you have good spark, is the shear key on the flywheel. If slightly sheared or the wrong key, it could cause issues that would appear as ignition timing.
If the engine was rebuilt and has not ran since, it is possible to have the cam timing off. This is done by aligning marks on the gears on the crank and cam shafts. To check if this may be a possibility, removing the head to view the valves is necessary. With the piston at TDC (on compresion stroke) both valves should be closed. Rotating the piston in either direction should begin to move either valve. Also at this position, with the shear key correct and intact on the flywheel, the magnet should be at the coil.
The engine would have to be dissasembled to correct cam timing.

GL n let us know
 
  #3  
Old 11-24-04, 12:52 AM
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Try putting a little fuel in the plug hole and see if it starts for a second or two. If so, then carb problem. If not, then I would suspect the flywheel key. It's a common failure on engines just rebuilt if the rebuilder doesn't know that it needs to be tightened as tight as you can get it, then 1 more turn. (kidding, but it does need to be tight).
 
  #4  
Old 11-29-04, 10:34 AM
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The flywheel key will also shear if you lubricate the interface between the flywheel and the crankshaft. I did that once in an effort to help myself out if I ever had to remove the flywheel later. After going through a bunch of flywheel keys I read in the B&S manual NOT to lubricate the flywheel and somewhere else just WHY you shouldn't. When the engine backfires the flywheel key will usually shear unless there's a good tight, clean fit on the crankshaft. Making it tight will also help. Yes, I know you may have problems if you have to remove the flywheel later, but that's what the RIGHT puller will quickly and easily do for you.
 
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