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Carb disassembly-new gasket(s) necessary?


sket's Avatar
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Join Date: Dec 2004
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MI

01-04-05, 09:57 AM   #1  
Carb disassembly-new gasket(s) necessary?

Prior to removing the carburetor on my Tecumseh (HS50-67175C) snowblower for complete cleaning, should I purchase any new gasket(s) that might be between the carb and engine block (or can I reinstall the old ones?) I have the correct carb kit ready to go (part # 31840), lots of carb cleaner, and purchased a new float (just in case). Also, is it possible to give the carb a thorough cleaning WITHOUT removing it from the snow blower? (Unfortunately, a 200 pound snowblower is impossible for me to turn upside down.) Should I also be buying something called "Locktite"? Anything else I need before I tackle the disassembly? (I do have the correct Tecumseh Technician's handbook for directions.)

 
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01-04-05, 12:31 PM   #2  
sket
Yes I would replace all the gaskets that have been removed. You wouldn't be very happy if when you go to set up the carb and find out that the intake manifold gasket is leaking and you have to disassemble everything to correct it.
To do a thorough cleaning, the carb must be removed, disassembled and soaked. This way you can remove the welsh plugs and clean out the orifices that are behind them. The spray cleaners I guess are not bad but if I'm going to do a job, I'll spend the extra time and do it right.
Locktite is a mechanics necessity. Blue locktite is what you'll need.
Just follow the write ups in the manual and I think you'll do fine.
Let us know how you make out.

snoman

 
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01-04-05, 02:26 PM   #3  
More questions (from a carb "newbie")

Thanks, Snoman, for such a rapid response! (I KNOW you're the expert--I've seen all your valuable advice to posts at this forum! A post from Jay1911 dated 2/6/04 -- I've read A LOT of posts today! -- could have been written by me! It describes my situation exactly!) Could you spare me a little more time for a few more questions?

Would my local small engine repair shop carry the gaskets I need? If not, how do I find the part number(s)? (How many gaskets will I need?)

Where do I apply the blue Locktite (obviously not to the mixture or idle screws) and how much?

What product do you recommend for soaking the metallic parts of the carb? Will I have to remove the throttle and choke plates before soaking?

Am I correct (following info from the handbook) that if the primer bulb is separate from the carb, there are no welch plugs?

Will I need a torque wrench, or, when instructed, can I just "tighten securely"?

Anything else I should be aware of? Thanks in advance for the help!

 
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01-04-05, 03:59 PM   #4  
sket
Thanks for the praise but I enjoy helping others like yourself. Okay let's cover this in order:
1-Yes your local small engine shop should carry the gaskets and if you supply the model and type of the motor, I can get the numbers for you.
2-The blue locktite is for the mounting bolts, 2 on the intake to the block and 2 to the carb to the intake.
3-What I use is a parts/carb cleaner, I got it from NAPA, it's kinda pricey but check with them and see if they have something a little cheaper.
4-No I don't believe so, there should be 2 welsh plugs, 1 inside the float chamber and another on the side near the throttle plate end of the carb. Be extremely careful when removing the one on the side of the carb cause if you go through it too far, you can damage the orifices and that's not good. Follow the manual for removing this one.
5-You have to remember that these bolts aren't holding the motor together so don't use a 1/2 drive socket to tighten them. All I use is a 1/4 drive socket set and I tighten them wrist tight and maybe a little more.
6-Take your time and use tag wire to poke all the orifices you find to aid in the cleaning.
Hope this helps.

snoman

 
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01-04-05, 06:19 PM   #5  
Thanks again for the advice

Once more, thanks for the advice Snoman. My Engine Model number is HS50-67175C (Serial # 9169B). Since I continued reading many more posts after my last few(?) questions, I have a few more:

Should the choke and throttle plates be removed before soaking in carb clearner?

Also, in a "closed choke position", how is the choke plate positioned? That is, if I look into the throat of the carb, does it appear "flat" (like a closed door) so that I can see the entire plate? It seems illogical to me, that when I have the choke "on", it looks as if the "door" is open, and when the choke lever is slid to "run" (i.e., choke "off") the "door" is closed?

(please pardon my simplistic terminology!)

 
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01-04-05, 06:48 PM   #6  
sket
The gasket from intake to block is # 33673A and from carb to intake is #26756.
I always remove them but you don't have to necessarily do that.
On page 21 of your manual you should see a diagram of the choke set up. If the plate looks like it it's not circular (a piece missing) that goes to the bottom.
When the choke is closed (start position cold) the door is closed. In the run position (off) the door is open. You can put it on 2 ways but only one way will work properly....you'll notice as soon as you try to move it back and forth.
Remember that you don't want any binding, the throttle shaft has to move freely and the choke shaft has to click on the little pressure spring.

snoman

 
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