Craftsman Snowthrower won't start

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  #1  
Old 01-21-05, 08:27 PM
JLondon
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Unhappy Craftsman Snowthrower won't start

Have a Sears Craftsman 536.884351, Engine 143.943071 (D) 4103H that worked fine last year and but won't start this year. Fresh gas/oil mixture and just pulled the (gunky & dirty) spark plug that had never been replaced in 6 years of having this machine. Haven't had an opportunity to replace, but will try to get our early in the AM to get a new one along with some Gumout.

The electric starter just spins continuessly whereby the starter gear never engages with the motor so I have to crank it manually...what's with that?

Anyone know whose engine this is? I don't have the manual and the sears parts web site has a diagram but not the manual or engine mfct information.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. I'll be trying the obvious tomorrow...replace the plug, spray gumout, check choke, took off air box.

So much for being prepared for the 12+ inches we're expected to get tomorrow.

Thanx in advance.
 
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  #2  
Old 01-21-05, 09:07 PM
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JLondon
It sounds to me like your carb needs a good cleaning. Your motor is a Tecumseh model # HSK600-1687S .
go to your nearest small motor dealer and pick up a carb rebuild kit and a 2 cycle manual for that engine. The manual explains in very laymans terms how to do the work. Oh yeah and a new plug every year never hurts.
I hope this helps.

snoman
 
  #3  
Old 01-22-05, 09:20 AM
bulwinkle
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Craftsman snowblower wont start

I have the same model of 2-stroke snowblower. One problem with this model is the lack of an air cleaner to prevent junk from entering the air input neck of the carb. Only the plastic shroud protects it.

The carburetor needs cleaning. It is simple to do however, if you take the effective shortcuts. After you get the plastic shrouding off, remove the rubber primer tube, and the gas inlet. Take these off carefully and plan on replacing the rubber tubes. They will probably be shedding material since they are old and will muck up your carb again if you reuse them. Very important!

Next, there are two allen screws that mount the carb. Remove these. Next the throttle control linkage can be slipped from the little hole on the plate that controls the butterfly throttle . BE CAREFUL because there is a tiny spring that is also attached to the two linkage connection holes----its purpose is to remove slack in this linkage. Lose this or fail to replace it and your engine will rhythmically vary in RPMs when you run the engine. So study how it goes in. Carfully remove the plastic mounting block and flat gasket and note the impressions left in these by the block and carburerator. I added a VERY THIN layer of silicone gasket compound to these and just reused the parts.

Press on the button at the bottom of the gas bowl and this will drain the gas. and carefully remove the single bolt at the bottom of the bowl that attaches the bowl to the carb body. Keep the carb level and upside down when you pull off the bowl. Study the position of the the tiny spring that that the float mounting rod goes through. It provides a dampening action for the float. Also, pay attention to how the float needle is attached to a small tab on the float. Don't take this assembly apart until you have studied it carefully. Take a digital or video picture if necessary.

Next, remove the float, rod, spring and needle, taking care not to bend anything!

Get a can of Berryman carb cleaner or other top spray can of carb/choke cleaner. Put on some safety goggles and direct the spray into every hole and orifice you can find. Let it set a minute and then repeat. I do this about 20 times. Then reassemble everything.

No doubt there is old gas gunk, varnish, accumulated dust, a spec of dirt or something clogging your carb. When you get it together be sure you put on a new gas intake rubber hose---about 3 inches length is all you need. Test the function of the priming pump button. It should fill the bowl with fresh gas when you press it, and you will be able to redrain the bowl using the bowl drain button.

Your starter problem is due to the failure of the solenoid to kick out the gear. It is simply stuck due to dust or a small amount of rust binding it. Manually pull out the shaft to its full length by hand if you can and clean, scrub it. A little carb cleaner spray on the shaft may help, along with some rubbing with 600 grit wet-dry sandpaper. Anyway, my starter fails to kick out all the time and I haven't found a good permanent fix for it.

Good luck with this.

BulwinkleJMoose
 
  #4  
Old 01-22-05, 09:05 PM
JLondon
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Sno & Bulwinkle...appreciate all the information and advice. Since I was under the gun to get this snow thrower working before the big storm, I replaced the spark plug this AM after generously using choke & carb cleaner. Got it to start (manually) and used it for about 1 hour...had to keep it on "Full Choke" for quite some time. The carb definitely needs to be cleaned / rebuilt since the engine runs erraticly, RPMs vary tremendously.

As long as it works OK to get me through the second go 'round with the snow tomorrow I'll probably rebuild the carb some time next weekend...maybe I'll pull the starter off tomorrow and do as Bul suggests.

** Jeff **
 
  #5  
Old 01-23-05, 04:16 PM
flewism
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You should run your small engines completely out of fuel, especially 2-strokes before storing them, for next season. This will help with fowled carb. problems
 
  #6  
Old 01-29-05, 06:50 AM
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Air cleaner ?

I disagree with Bulwinkle about air cleaners on snowblower engines. Powder snow will build up on them causing loss of power. While blowing snow, dust/debris is not a problem.
Mike A
 
  #7  
Old 01-30-05, 09:57 PM
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Air cleaner?

I live in northen BC and have NEVER seen a snowblower with an air cleaner--thats a new one to me--I quess if you're blowing sawdust into a dog run----?
 
  #8  
Old 01-30-05, 10:00 PM
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2 stroke engines

You should never use additives of any kind in a 2 stroke and ONLY premium 94 octane fuel. That will elliminate carb problems.
 
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