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My Craftsman w Tecumseh engine is leaking oil! But from where??


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01-23-05, 09:00 PM   #1  
FazTaz
My Craftsman w Tecumseh engine is leaking oil! But from where??

Craftsman 7 HP Two Stage Track Drive Snow Thrower model #247.885570 w Tecumseh Engine



It seams as though problems with my CRAPsman snowblower with tecumseh motor are becoming an annual event. Last year it was a small block rebuild. This year its an oil leak. I canít really locate the source. There is oil on the flywheel, and where the block connects to the snowblower base. Iíve taken the unit apart and the gasket to the front of the block seams intact. As do all the front bearings. I canít really assess the rear bearing to the flywheel (can this be a point where oil can leak??). I really am clueless. My plan is to replace the front cover gasket, and the head gasket (also there is always a lot of carbon deposits when I remove my head cover, is this common??). Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Lastly I have heard about this new non-adjustable carb. What are the benefits and drawbacks to this? It sounds like a nice thing to have. Does this have to be rebuilt as often as the older models? And where can I find one? Thanks!!

 
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01-23-05, 11:33 PM   #2  
The front seal is actually on the crankshaft behind the flywheel. It can and will leak. Carbon on the head is common and to be expected.

The non-adjustable carbs are not fun or to be desired in my opinion. They are pre-set and you cannot make adjustments. They are set lean, for passing epa requirements and cause trouble.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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01-24-05, 04:39 AM   #3  
FazTaz
Cheese as always thanks again for your help.

Some follow up questions
How can I check this seal without removing the flywheel/cover. Are there any special tools that are needed to remove it, or will a simple screwdriver with some good old force be able to remove it. Thanks!

 
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01-24-05, 10:49 AM   #4  
Azis
HI Faz,
This manual should cover your seal replacement in detail.
http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf
As for non-adjustable carbs, I am way in agreement with Cheese. When problems do arise, the only solution is cleaning the entire unit and if this does not solve the problem, the entire unit must be replaced. (other than gaskets or float assy)

 
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01-24-05, 10:31 PM   #5  
You can remove the flywheel with a steering wheel puller that you can rent for free at autozone.

If the oil is coming from under the flywheel, then it's the seal.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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01-28-05, 04:01 AM   #6  
FazTaz
Hey guys again thanks for all the help, quick question when replacing the gaskets and rear oil seal should I coat them with a thin layer of oil before I install them, or should I install them dry? Also any other tips when putting the engine together, torque specs, etc. Thanks!

 
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01-30-05, 10:15 PM   #7  
oil leak

A very common problem with oil leaking is an 'overfull
crank case' It does not take much of over full to start blowing it out. A common cause of overful is not reading the dipstick when the air pressure is less in the crankcase than atmospheric. This is not a fault of the operators eyes. To stop this condition from happening, operator should pull the rop through once before checking the oil.
It reads wrong because its hot when you shut it off and the oil is expanded. As it cools and drops lower it pulls the oil in the dipstick tube down to an improper reading due to the stronger force of atmospheric pressure. this only happens in the tube where the dipstick is! Neat huh??
I must add I figured this out for myself after years of rope pulling to get a proper reading. The reed valve in the breather will not release the small difference in pressure.
Supertech strikes again!

 
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01-31-05, 04:08 AM   #8  
sceptre
faztaz,

i sometimes coat my sump-cover gaskets with permatex
no.2 gasket sealer. as for torque, i use a cross pattern torque to feel
technique.
robert

 
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02-21-05, 05:47 AM   #9  
FazTaz
Hey guys thanks again for all the help thus far. After changing the gasket, the problem still persisit. I was able to do my entire driveway today after the small snow storm but noticed oil leaking again. Im assuming its from the rear oil seal. I have no clue what I am doing wrong. I installed it according to the tecumseh small engine manual (except I didn't use the specific tool to install it). Any suggestions on what I should do? At this point Im ready to succumb and have a "professional" fix the motot =P

 
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02-21-05, 07:18 PM   #10  
I will never own another Tecumsuh Engine again! Ever EVer Ever , Nothin but trouble, Same goes for Briggs Stratton, give me a Honda or Kawasaki any day! RH

 
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02-21-05, 09:13 PM   #11  
FazTaz, Did you change the gasket or the seal? If the seal is leaking(sounds like) make sure you clean the shaft with emery cloth to remove any rust. Also I always lube the shaft with vaseline & pac vaseline around the spring on the inside of the seal. This helps hold the spring in place when you install it. A bit of blue loctite around the bore of the block & some vaseline on the lip of the seal & push it in square & it won't leak. Good Luck!! (R)

 
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02-22-05, 06:05 AM   #12  
FazTaz
Hopkins I had to replace the front gasket when I replaced the oil seal. Im assuming the seal is still leaking because the oil appears to be coming from the rear around the flywheel. The shaft is faily new and I didnt' notice any rust because the block was purchase late last year. I will try the vaseline sounds like it should help. Where exactly do you put the blue loctite. Also is the vaseline a temporary solution or will it prevent leaking for years. Althought I've been taking the engine apart for the past 2 years I would like to end the trend this year =P. THanks again for the help.

BTW did you go to Johns Hopkins?

 
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02-22-05, 02:43 PM   #13  
The Sears website usually will tell me the engine ID#'s using the chassis #'s, which you supplied. However, not on this one. I'm guessing only because it is an MTD product built for Sears. So, what are the engine ID#'s. The reason I ask is to give you a part number for a oil seal protector/installer. This is the best and only way we install seals at our shop. In order to remove the flywheel and how it is suggested is to use a knockoff tool, Tecumseh part# 670169 (provided it is a 1/2" thread that is - engine#'s will tell me this), apply a small amount of pressure, safely and in the right spot, behind the flywheel and hit the knockoff tool with a dead-blow hammer and walah, the flywheel is off. Ideally, you would like to use a seal remover, Tecumseh part# 670279 (again, dependent on the engine #'s), to remove such, then use the aforementioned installation tool to install the new seal. The key to installing any oil seal is to not roll over the sealing lip upon installation...this tool does just that. With the engine #'s, I can supply you with all necessary parts needed as well as suggested tools to use.

 
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02-24-05, 08:00 PM   #14  
Puey61 has the perfect answer with the tools. The vaselene on the lip of the seal only lubes it during installation, & if you pac it around the spring, it'll help keep the spring in place during install. It'll wash off as soon as you start the engine. I put some loctite around the bore of the housing to help seal the outer edge of the seal to the block. Be carefull to keep the loctite away from the shaft!! Good luck. You can get a flywheel tool from your local NAPA store. Get the counter person to look at "TOOLS" section in the small engines parts book. About 5 or 6 bucks. P.S. No I didn't go to John Hopkins (R)

 
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02-28-05, 10:28 AM   #15  
How'd you make out Taz?

 
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