Snow Thrower Dies at High Speed and/or Auger Engagement

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  #1  
Old 01-29-05, 02:10 PM
kbruning
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Question Snow Thrower Dies at High Speed and/or Auger Engagement

I have a ten year old Craftsman 5HP Dual Stage Snow Thrower.

Up until last year everything was fine. I did notice a hose protruding from under the carburator shield that I never reconized before and at high speed the engine surged. I adjusted the high speed scew a bit and everthing seemed fine.

Well this year I just missed being able to use my snow thrower on our first snow of the year, the 12 incher. Anyway I had a hard time getting the snow thrower started this year (while it was snowing of course). I ended up taking the carburator shield off and low and behold I think I know where that mysterious hose came from. It appeared that the hose broke (actually looked like it melted) off just after the carburator nozzle. Well I reattached the hose and the engine started up. By the way, what is this hose and what does it do?

Things looked good for a while until I tried moving the throttle to high speed where it would stall. Now I am not a carburator expert but I consulted the manual and started adjusting screws on the carburator. Three exactly, one on the bottom (high speed adjusting screw, I think) and two on the side. Here's where I get lost, one pushes on a plate that attaches to to a linkage to what I believe is the governor ans the other I think might be the idle adjusting screw. Well playing around a bit got me to where I was able to idle and throttle up to near top (sometimes even top) but when I engage the auger the engine stalls. I am able to engage the wheels without problems.

Any suggestions???
 
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  #2  
Old 01-29-05, 03:18 PM
scan
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the screw that meets the plate is probably the idle advance. you can tel by removing the cover again and watching that linkage when you engage the auger. its either allowing too much fuel when advancing the throttle under load, or its not getting enough
my guess is its getting too much

was there ever a "safety" lock out on the machine? one that would prevent the machine fromrunning if not depressed? (like ones on newer lawn mowers)
 
  #3  
Old 01-30-05, 08:20 AM
kbruning
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No there is no safety lock out. Both the wheel drive and auger/impeller have seperate handles to engage.

Any suggestions on the adjustment? I have noticed the plate moves away from the screw when the engine stalls. And the engine (from when I first bought it) has always seemed to run rich (exhaust smells like gas).

Thanks for the help.
 
  #4  
Old 01-30-05, 08:00 PM
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snowblower

still need help??

I'm the Pro
feel free to ask me
Service tech for sears 15 years--still there
 
  #5  
Old 01-31-05, 09:09 AM
kbruning
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Yes, I would appreciate help. I'm not running yet.

Any suggestions???
 
  #6  
Old 01-31-05, 01:48 PM
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snowblower not running

HI

the little hose is for the primer. It simply pushes air or pressurizes the float bowl and forces gas up the centre tube (emulsion tube) into the venturi of the carb. Simply--puts raw gas into the carb in order to have fuel there for easy starting.
Your problem sounds like shortage or starving for fuel to me. If you open the high speed jet a little more the problem should go away. Air temp effects these little carbs a lot. The colder it is the more fuel it needs to run properly. If that fails to help, try opening the idle jet anothe half a turn. Get back to me.

S/T
 
  #7  
Old 01-31-05, 01:51 PM
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also

If you're running rich you will get black smoke from the exhaust. A strong smell is usually a lean condition if there is no black smoke.

S/T
 
  #8  
Old 01-31-05, 07:10 PM
kbruning
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I was at work late tonight so I didn't get a chance to try your advice. I should get to it tomorrow.

I have tried openning the high speed screw before. I was a turn and three quarters more open than the manual stated as the factory position and never heard a change in engine sound. I was trying to open and close the screw to find where I heard the engine change sound and then set the screw in the middle. Do you have a suggested sequence, high speed, idle, etc? Is this the right way to do this?

The manual states the factory settings for the high speed and idle screws are 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 open. The manual doesn't say anything about the screw which contacts the plate attaching to the governor lever by way of the linkage. Any suggestions???
 
  #9  
Old 02-07-05, 06:50 PM
kbruning
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Just to put an end to this thread. I ended up replacing the carb and thing appears to be working again.
 
  #10  
Old 02-07-05, 06:53 PM
kbruning
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Just to note. I openned up the old carb and things looked pretty varnished. I probably could of done a rebuild but not having done one before I didin't want to spend much more time on this. Anyway the replacement carb didn't cost that much.
 
  #11  
Old 02-07-05, 11:51 PM
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replaced

It is a good idea to replace if you can't repair yourself. Labor rates are pretty high now and I find there are very few shop around with skilled help. Sears here is 66/hr.

S/T
 
  #12  
Old 02-08-05, 08:27 AM
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A rebuild could certainly have been done. Here at my shop, we charge 10 bucks plus parts ($15-18 +-) with the carburetor off the engine. Bear this in mind next time so you don't have to spend 50 fish for a new carb again.
 
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