Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 18
Sponsored Links
Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 326
CANADA
01-30-05, 06:48 PM
#4
cclee
The head bolts are to be torqued to 16.5 ft lbs and in proper sequence.
The timing for an H70 is .090 BTDC if your bore is 3.06 and the timing is .080 if your bore is 2.75.
Go here for a manual for your motor. http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf
snoman
The head bolts are to be torqued to 16.5 ft lbs and in proper sequence.
The timing for an H70 is .090 BTDC if your bore is 3.06 and the timing is .080 if your bore is 2.75.
Go here for a manual for your motor. http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf
snoman
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 18
02-02-05, 05:35 AM
#6
OK, its back together, but no spark. This is an internal coil magneto ignition.
I triple checked the 020 point gap and 080 btdc timing.
I have a few suspicions what the problem could be.
1. I had found that one of the magnets on the flywheel was loose, so I marked the location, cleaned up the surfaces and used epoxy to re-mount it. Since then, I noticed in the manual that they recommend not to re-glue the magnets. Does anyone know why this is? is it one of those conservative safety things, or are these originally bonded with a conductive adhesive or something? The way it's described in the manual suggests the 2 magnets are supposed to act like opposite poles of a sigle magnet.
2. Do these laminated metal stator assemblies ever go bad? what would I look for? It didn't have any visible damage.
3. Would minor rust interupt the ground path from the head to the block because of poor contact between the bolt heads through the sheet metal covers to the head?
any thoughts on these or other ideas are appreciated
thanks in advance
I triple checked the 020 point gap and 080 btdc timing.
I have a few suspicions what the problem could be.
1. I had found that one of the magnets on the flywheel was loose, so I marked the location, cleaned up the surfaces and used epoxy to re-mount it. Since then, I noticed in the manual that they recommend not to re-glue the magnets. Does anyone know why this is? is it one of those conservative safety things, or are these originally bonded with a conductive adhesive or something? The way it's described in the manual suggests the 2 magnets are supposed to act like opposite poles of a sigle magnet.
2. Do these laminated metal stator assemblies ever go bad? what would I look for? It didn't have any visible damage.
3. Would minor rust interupt the ground path from the head to the block because of poor contact between the bolt heads through the sheet metal covers to the head?
any thoughts on these or other ideas are appreciated
thanks in advance
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 16,570
GA
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 18
02-03-05, 05:27 PM
#8
Hi Cheese
I replaced the coil, plug, points and condenser. I had broken the plug wire trying to clean the terminal, so I had to do the coil. At first, I couldn't get the coil off the stator, so I pulled that off to make sure I wasn't wrecking anything when I pried it off. Is there something to watch out for with the coil?
I did the gap on the highest point on the cam, then dialed the piston to 080 btdc on the compression stroke. then I tweaked the stator assembly until it was just breaking open with a multimeter. I turned the crank back and forth to check opening, right about at .082. The head was off, so I could get to the piston with a regular depth mic.
I think I followed the manual pretty closely, does aything look off to you?
I replaced the coil, plug, points and condenser. I had broken the plug wire trying to clean the terminal, so I had to do the coil. At first, I couldn't get the coil off the stator, so I pulled that off to make sure I wasn't wrecking anything when I pried it off. Is there something to watch out for with the coil?
I did the gap on the highest point on the cam, then dialed the piston to 080 btdc on the compression stroke. then I tweaked the stator assembly until it was just breaking open with a multimeter. I turned the crank back and forth to check opening, right about at .082. The head was off, so I could get to the piston with a regular depth mic.
I think I followed the manual pretty closely, does aything look off to you?
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 16,570
GA
02-04-05, 10:16 PM
#9
Man, It's been so long since I've pulled a coil on one of those that I can't remember, but It seems that you have to get it positioned close enough to the flywheel to get the signal from the flywheel magnets, but you can't get it exact since it's under the flywheel. Try moving the coil away from the crankshaft just a bit.
"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)
God bless!
Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 189
02-07-05, 11:32 PM
#10
no spark
You should be able to tell where the coil was monted before by the bolt washer marks.
That really sucks if you've lost the spark with a new coil.
Make sure there is no grease on the points surfaces. I dont think you can change the position of the coil toward or away from the magnets on that model. If you can't see the spark that doesn't mean its not there--you have to turn the flywheel past the magnet quickly before a spark will occur. My advice would be to turn the flywheel while hanging on to the wire with your hand and ground your hand at the same time--then you can be sure whether or not there is a spark. Its good therapy too.
S/T
That really sucks if you've lost the spark with a new coil.
Make sure there is no grease on the points surfaces. I dont think you can change the position of the coil toward or away from the magnets on that model. If you can't see the spark that doesn't mean its not there--you have to turn the flywheel past the magnet quickly before a spark will occur. My advice would be to turn the flywheel while hanging on to the wire with your hand and ground your hand at the same time--then you can be sure whether or not there is a spark. Its good therapy too.
S/T
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 18
02-09-05, 07:08 PM
#11
yea, this coil sits on a boss sticking out of the block. so it can rotate around it for timing, but can't move into the flywheel. I haven't been able to get out there to dig back into the thing yet.
I'll have to pull 4 of the head bolts to get the cover off. should I loosen all of them and retorq them all at the same time in the right pattern, or just not worry about it and torq the 4 back when I put the cover back on?
I'll have to pull 4 of the head bolts to get the cover off. should I loosen all of them and retorq them all at the same time in the right pattern, or just not worry about it and torq the 4 back when I put the cover back on?
Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,561
Non-US
02-09-05, 09:28 PM
#13
Try to disconnect the shut-off switch if you have no spark. If any of the off switches are shorted (may be a key & the control) to ground, the engine will not start. Disconnect the switches & re-check for spark!! 110V starter sounds like a snowblower & they may have more than 1 stop switch. Good Luck (R)
Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,224
NY
02-10-05, 08:34 AM
#14
You should have a zipper on this, eh? Remove all ground wires from the point junction block. This will eliminate any bare wire trouble in any of the kill wire(s) as the culprit. You likely only have one but may have two such wires. Once removed check for spark. With point ignition, it takes very little RPM to produce spark. In other words, merely slip on the flywheel and take short, rocking strokes with the magnets passing the magneto and this will be enough to check for spark. You should then, with all you've done, have spark. You will then have to determine where the ground problem is coming from (wire, kill terminal, wire end).
