Snowthrower electric start problem.

Reply

  #1  
Old 02-07-05, 06:34 AM
Salvatore
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Snowthrower electric start problem.

We have had extremely below 0 degrees weather for two weeks. The electric start on my Craftsman model no.536.887991 9hp tecumseh engine worked fine for the first week of that cold spell. Then one morning I hooked up the cord and got a split second's noise and then nothing. Since then I would occasionally try the electric start and get a brief sound and then nothing. The weather has warmed up substantially and I checked the cord which is fine. I don't believe I have used the Electric start more than 25 or so times and the 2 year warranty expired a month ago. It does start rather easily with the recoil but I am up there in years and may have to rely someday on the electric starter. Any suggestions? Thank you.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 02-07-05, 07:32 AM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Texas
Posts: 478
Start button

Sounds like a problem in the pushbutton for the starter. I believe I read on a previous thread the starter and puhbutton have to be bought as a unit. I too have a Techumseh w/ elec. start. Haven't had any problems with starter, but If I do I'm sure I can figure out a way to replace the pushbutton with the right amp. rated aftermarket button. Could you elaborate on the "brief sound"? Is it a click or does the starter try to turn the engine? I did have one episode in that it arced on the male prongs where the ext. cord attaches. I cut the plastic shroud off around the male prongs in order to make sure they are clean. If you have a small wire brush, try cleaning the flat prongs and try a different ext. cord that will fit in the cover.
Hope this helps,
Mike A
 
  #3  
Old 02-07-05, 11:39 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 5353'57.39" N 12244'13.58" W
Posts: 189
electric start

those start switches are a mickey mouse thingie. A lot of people replace them with a push button from something else or just a regular house light swith and box. Some I've seen are removed and just a ext cord plug end put on it. Tecumseh used to sell a new switch for can you believe---$40.00. But no more. Still having probs?

S/T
 
  #4  
Old 02-08-05, 08:37 AM
Salvatore
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Mike A.

The sound the electric start makes for a split second is as if it is going to turn the engine. But then again it is only for a split second. Thank you for your response and if you think of anything else I will check back daily until Feb 14.

Originally Posted by mla2ofus
Sounds like a problem in the pushbutton for the starter. I believe I read on a previous thread the starter and puhbutton have to be bought as a unit. I too have a Techumseh w/ elec. start. Haven't had any problems with starter, but If I do I'm sure I can figure out a way to replace the pushbutton with the right amp. rated aftermarket button. Could you elaborate on the "brief sound"? Is it a click or does the starter try to turn the engine? I did have one episode in that it arced on the male prongs where the ext. cord attaches. I cut the plastic shroud off around the male prongs in order to make sure they are clean. If you have a small wire brush, try cleaning the flat prongs and try a different ext. cord that will fit in the cover.
Hope this helps,
Mike A
 
  #5  
Old 02-08-05, 08:38 AM
puey61's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 3,224
If in fact you have a starter button box problem, they are still available through Tecumseh, part # 35454 for a price of $65. Bear in mind though that you likely have a starter motor problem. It may be as simple as a dry Bendix. I suggest, if you have no experience with these, taking the starter assembly off and take to your local shop and have them inspect and test.
 
  #6  
Old 02-08-05, 08:45 AM
Salvatore
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Thank you, That seems to be a good idea. Better to

make sure the starter is ok first before investing in a switch of some kind. Might a toggle switch work?
 
  #7  
Old 02-09-05, 12:41 PM
puey61's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 3,224
A toggle switch likely would work, provided it is substantial enough for the high current associated with these starters but again, have the starter checked for any trouble within it.
 
  #8  
Old 02-09-05, 12:58 PM
hopkinsr2's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: canada
Posts: 1,563
Check the yellow pages for a shop that repairs electric motors. With any luck is only a sticky brush or just a clean up & lube like puey61 mentioned. Lotsa snow & water around make things sticky!! Good luck!! (R)
 
  #9  
Old 02-10-05, 07:53 AM
Salvatore
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Hopkinsr2

Thank you. The motor is coming off tomorrow and will inform you of the results. If it is going to cost me over 20 bucks to repair a motor that costs 125. Ill pull the cord.
 
  #10  
Old 02-10-07, 07:55 PM
Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 1
Tecumseh switch assebly part # 35454

I take care of my neighbor's snowblower and he had the starter switch fail. They wanted $71.03 for the switch (assembly 35454) from the local shop where he purchased the snowblower. What I ended up doing was taking the case apart. It has a hard gasket along with several plastic pins holding it together. I used a saw and carefully cut through the outside of the switch case. I found out that the switch used inside appears to be a Cherry Switch E13-00E. I ordered one today from Jameco for $2.65. Their part number is 423994. (http://www.jameco.com)The switch is also availble from Allied Electronics for $2.71. Their part number is 908-1435. The link to the manufacturer's information is www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdDS/423994.pdf. Shipping for UPS is $6.49. Hopefully I will get this before the next snow fall.

I thought someone else may find this information useful.
 
  #11  
Old 01-29-12, 04:59 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: usa
Posts: 1
repairing switch

That was some good info.I have a switch box with the seam at the bottom of the box.It had 2 openings that look-like they were pry points but to no avail.I put the box in a vise with a heatgun and was able to loosen the glue.Inside I found the spade lug connector had broken in half and the other one was on its way out also,so I replaced both with heavier duty connectors.When testing the switch I used a DVM and ohmed across the 2 blades(hot and neutral),when I pushed the start button the ohms dropped to 0.Hope this saves other people money
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes