Tiller Won't Run

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  #1  
Old 02-26-05, 08:16 PM
GTAlumnus
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Tiller Won't Run

I bought this Craftsman 3.5HP rear-tine tiller about 18 years ago. Tiller Mod 917.299230 Ser 3204WE07169, Tecumseh Engine Mod 143754012 Ser 4317B.

I have had repeated problems with the tiller running a few seconds and dying. The solution has been taking off the carb and cleaning it. Today, after getting the garden almost tilled (with fuel that had been in there since about September) it quit, then would start, run a few seconds and die. Then it wouldn't start at all.

I removed the carb and then took off the bowl, float, and the inflow needle and clip. Didn't blow it out since I couldn't find my nozzle to do so. Everything still looked pretty clean so put it back together.

I managed to forget how the linkage goes between the throttle and the governor, possibly caused by the one-hour delay cause by my loosing the little wire linkage part in the driveway. When I put the carb back on the tiller I tried it this way and that way but couldn't remember how it should go. One way the throttle binds, the other way it doesn't look right and in fact the end that goes on the governor would come off.

After 2 hours of playing around with it I gave up, got online and ordered a Tecumseh service manual. I still was not able to get the engine to start.

Some assistance on part numbers for a carb rebuild kit or whatever would be appreciated. Also, I guess I should replace the points, although I guess this will require a flywheel puller, which I don't have.

Good grief, its only 18 years old, why should it be giving this much trouble?
 
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Old 02-28-05, 06:06 AM
diagnosticmonke
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YES, change the points out wouldnt hurt. They also make CDIs for those if your tired of messing with points. aA little black box for $ 9.95 and no more points. I first attempt to remove the flywheel by loosening the nut, but leaving it on the crank to protect the top threads. I slide my small flat johnny bar between the block and flywheel, tapping on the flywheel nut as pressure is applied upward on flywheel via johnny bar. This tecnique is not recommended but sure saves me time trying to get the broken bolts out of the flywheel from using those pullers.
 
  #3  
Old 02-28-05, 08:32 AM
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First, this engine does not have points & condensor...It is a solid state ignition. Next, Tecumseh carburetor kit # 31840, manifold gasket # 26754A, carb to manifold gasket # 26756, float # 632019 (if needed), bowl # 631951 (if needed) . Next, you'll need to soak the bare carburetor in a quality bath type cleaner (I like Napa #6401) for 15-20 minutes. Caution: plastic and rubber parts will deteriorate in this solution, rubber quicker than the plastic parts. Strip the carb down, the only plastic part that will not be reasonably removed will be the fuel inlet elbow. Soaking for only 15-20 minutes SHOULD not damage this. Finally, when you get your manual (it should be part # 740049) look on page 31 at figure 16 (it will be labeled "horizontal lightweight "), this should be your linkage and spring set-up.
 
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Old 02-28-05, 08:20 PM
GTAlumnus
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Tiller Won't Start

Thanks for the advice. I will order those parts and await the arrival of my service manual. I assume I don't need to change out the electronic gizmo that takes the place of the points? Wouldn't it work or not, really no inbetween?
 
  #5  
Old 02-28-05, 11:16 PM
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Exclamation Craftsman Tiller Wont Start

No theres no reason to replace the electronic ignition since it was running,but depending on how hard the engine fires at the end of the spark plug wire,I'd clean all the rust from the legs of the coil & the magnet of the flywheel.regap the coil @0.010

And also change that gas.The gas that their saleing these days wont last more than 30 days.If you run "bad"gas through a single cylinder engine it will muck up the carburetor again.
 
  #6  
Old 03-01-05, 02:14 PM
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Hey Yellow Jacket,
It is unlikely that you would have to replace the solid state ignition coil. These coils can and do fail when heated up. In other words there is potential in-between problems. The only test for these is by using a Briggs tester (part# 19368) as there is no Ohms test for these. With this tester, if the coil is strong enough (at time of suspected failure) to jump this exagerated gap, the coil is good. By the way, the proper armature (coil) to flywheel airgap is .0125". As repair_guy noted, you will want to remove any rust on both the flywheel magnets and coil so that you get an accurate gap.
 
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