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Murray Mid-Engine


DoctorBombay's Avatar
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03-02-05, 06:50 PM   #1  
DoctorBombay
Murray Mid-Engine

A few months ago I bought a reconditioned Murray Select Mid-engine riding mower. 12 H.P. , 30 inch cut. Looked it up on the web, I'm guessing its a few years old, however it looks to be in great shape. It ran from the lot to the trailer I hauled it home on. Wouldn't start when I got it home. Oh well, It was used. I bought a battery charger, let it set a week. Of course this isn't grass cutting season just yet, but I needed a reason to try it out. After lots of cranking it started. Tried it out for the first time be mulching some leaves. Didn't seem to have much get up and go, so i put the "speed" lever in 1. I guess 5 was the fastest since I discovered I couldn't move in 1 through 3 out of 5! Disappointed, I parked it in the shed. A few weeks later (grass looking a bit greener) I decide to crank it up. (battery is charged.) After a little starting fluid and several cranks, it starts and sputters hard. I take the air cleaner off and crank it over to then see the carburator vomiting fuel and oil mix...can't be good. I then noticed the once full fuel tank is now empty; was full when I parked it last. I drained the "oil" reservoir, removed the carburator to inspect and the best I can tell is that the needle valve in the float bowl under the carburator assembly let gas through the carb and into the engine, due to sedament and build up accumulating around the seat of the needle valve, causing gravity fed tank to empty. Any Advice? All I can think to do is clean the carb really well, put "oil" back in the engine and hope for the best. And a new fuel filter. In case anyone is wondering, I paid $350.00 for the headache. I am mechanically inclined, however I'm looking pretty hard at the Lowes and Tractor Supply ads here lately......

 
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03-02-05, 11:18 PM   #2  
Hello Doc!

I would reccomend removing the carburetor bowl and clean the carb well, replace the needle, if the needle doesn't ahve the rubber tip, then it needs a seat as well. If it has a brass float, shake it near your ear and if you hear a sloshing noise, replace it. This should get you up and running again. As for the speeds, you might just need a belt, or possibly the belt clutch/tensioner needs lubricating. They can get a bit rusty and stick, keeping the belt from getting the proper tension.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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03-03-05, 10:45 AM   #3  
DoctorBombay
Thanks for the advice. I'll probably get a new needle and seat anyway since it's apart. The rubber tip is still on the needle, I suspect the seat is very dirty. As for the overall speed of the mower, the lever control connects directly to an aluminum housing at the rear of the mower. Also the rear wheel shafts are driven directly ftom this housing. Only pully and belt are for the blade.........???

 
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03-03-05, 10:21 PM   #4  
There's a belt going to a pulley on the transmission too. It might be hard to see up under there, but it's there.

If your needle is rubber tipped, then I wouldn't worry about trying to change the seat. It should be fine, and is a real pain to change. Just replace the needle and float too if needed.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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03-04-05, 09:13 AM   #5  
Azis
Not sure on Murray but some have an adjustment on the gear lever linkage. If the neutral safety switch is still active and it starts with the lever at the N or Nuetral, then its prolly not the prob, but still worth the check.

 
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