Thanks! Hope Restored, Tecumseh 6.75hp Running again

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  #1  
Old 04-19-05, 05:35 PM
Oregon Sunset
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Smile Thanks! Hope Restored, Tecumseh 6.75hp Running again

Thanks ( Esp to Cheese) I was frustrated beyond belief , I had the Classic runs only if you keep priming it, I have in the past cleaned the Jets ( Never cleaned all (4) holes in the Jet ( I only had seen the 2-3) , ( I kind of had did it half a**ed, well this time I drained the tank, I got out the Carb cleaner, I clipped one of the Wires from a wire brush. ( to clean out the Jets) I soaked all the parts ( On mower).

BTW I thought that the Primer button was not working and had lost prime, ( but I could prime the mower to keep it running) But if you can keep the mower running by using the prime button it is working.

Also if you can use the prime button to keep the mower running then the engine kill bar is not the problem. I use a velcro strap for electrical cords to keep the kill bar engaged.

I had cleaned the bowl and Jet in the past, ( but only got nomial results, )
I had Lost all faith in the Mower which is only 3-4 seasons old, but it would bogg down and die in 6" deep grass, Often after which it would not want to restart, So I picked up a Snapper at Goodwill for $5 (Pre-EPA Micro Jet Crap), ( it is an older snapper, with another Tecumseh, but when I broke the starter cord, I went and replaced it but the dog legs in the starter catch actually broke. ( it was a great at baging and was a good back up)

Anyways my grass was 10-12" today, (to much rain & work) Well the good news is after cleaning out the bolt at the bottom of the bowl. I regained my faith in the Tecumseh Line, It did not flinch or balk at the tall moist green grass. ( the bagger sucks on the Sears model) It did'nt even act like it was going to Die.


So yeah Thanks for all the Help. I know that I read many of the Tecumseh threads, I think that it is a Common enough problem on these engines that one of the Mods should create a Sticky for the Tecumseh engines and the bowl/bolt fuel problem.

One other thing it is now a one pull start.


Thanks!
 
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  #2  
Old 04-19-05, 08:54 PM
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Great! Thanks for letting us know how it went! Nice to know we're appreciated now and then.
 
  #3  
Old 05-09-05, 11:45 PM
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My won't start now...Craftsman...6.75...HELP!!!!

Hello Cheese,

I've followed some of your posts regarding the above...and I'm hoping you can help.

My mower is about 5yr old...been working great...5 pumps...1/2 pulls and away we mow...now it just stopped starting....used 3wks ago..no issues, no sputtering; no nothing.

Disassembled carb and linkages...cleand bowl; blew lines & tubes...sounds good....reassamble.

Did notice that when pulling cord...I would get major "pull/kick back"...that's never happened before!

In the mean time, I'm going to follow your tip on the bowl nut and cleaning the 4 holes.

I also need clarification on the linkage rods....one link rod with the spring is going from the bracket on the carb to the top hole on the other arm on the side of the block,

and the other link rod is going from the first hole on the b/fly top plate on top the carb to the second hole (bottom) on the arm on the side of the block.

Are they connected correctly? If you need a pic let me know.

My mower has not been abused...the ocassional ground scrape, a few stones...but nothing that has stopped the mower abruptly or cause any funny noises.

I appreciate any help/guidance you can offer, and thank you.
 

Last edited by oceanview; 05-11-05 at 12:48 AM. Reason: typo..
  #4  
Old 05-10-05, 12:58 AM
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Oceanview,

The kickback sounds like part of your problem here. I think it is caused by either: The blade is loose, or the flywheel key is sheared. Check these, and let us know what you find!
 
  #5  
Old 05-10-05, 04:16 AM
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I'm going to say you have a sheared flywheel key and yes, the linkages are attached correctly!
 
  #6  
Old 05-10-05, 07:21 AM
Azis
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Both linkage rods are connected to the arm on the side of the block...? IE: the govenor lever?
 
  #7  
Old 05-11-05, 12:56 AM
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awww....NUTS!!!!...

Thank you everyone....I appreciate it....


Ok...now to figure out how to take the flywheel off.

I should mention...that I get 3/5 normal pulls before the "kick back" happends.

Thanks for the answers on the linkages...I couldn't think of that part...but yes it was the governor....

Shall I still pursue the "cleaning" of the nut on the fuel bowl?

When removing the flywheel...should I apply some marks...or will I have to figure out the timing part again? If so...what are is the timing stroke setting?

In the back of my mind I wondered if maybe the timing was out. I mean it worked great 3wks ago....no problems at all.

Ok....time to rest...this is a Thurs evening project....and my grass is getting taller by the hour!!!!

Thanks again everyone....
 
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Old 05-11-05, 07:10 AM
Azis
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  #9  
Old 05-12-05, 01:50 AM
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To get it off, you'll need a puller, like a steering wheel puller that you can rent from autozone and a couple of bolts long enough to thread into the holes in the flywheel. Just remove the top cover(s) on the engine and you'll see the flywheel nut. Don't use the fins on the flywheel to hold it or you'll break them.

There is no timing mark needed, no particular engine position either. The flywheel key is all that times the engine. If it's ok, then the ignition is timed correctly. If not, it's out of time.

If the blade hasn't hit any roots or solid objects, I don't know why the key would be sheared. Did you check the blade? I have seen them kick back if the blade is too short (worn off at the ends) also. The blade is part of the flywheight needed to keep the engine from kicking back on a compliance engine like yours.
 
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