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engine stuck?


jiraphe's Avatar
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05-05-05, 01:13 PM   #1  
engine stuck?

Our wonderful 1988 4hp self-propelled 21" Snapper mower, model 21405ps 83368, serial 84362928, that does EVERYTHING we ask of it, has just hit a bush stump. The pull cord won't budge and my daughter is miserable. What can we do for our faithful machine? Thank you, Bob.

 
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05-05-05, 01:31 PM   #2  
It's 17 years old, so unless you do the complete repair yourself, it will cost more to fix than it would be worth in running condition. I'm guessing you bent the engine crankshaft and locked the motor up internally.

 
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05-05-05, 02:14 PM   #3  
I agree, the crank is probably bent, but look under the mower. Maybe the blade is bent and jammed against the frame. If so, there is still a very good chance that the crank is bent, and the flywheel key is sheared.


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05-05-05, 02:49 PM   #4  
Thank you both. I'm a bit handy, how do I go about the teardown? Thanks again, Bob

 
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05-06-05, 03:22 AM   #5  
Before you do a tear-down, what did you find? Bent blade? Bent crank? Low oil level?

 
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05-06-05, 08:27 AM   #6  
Hi,puey61. The blade looked bent, high one end, lower on other, but when removed, it was fine.?? Regards and thanks, Bob.

 
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05-06-05, 08:44 AM   #7  
I also see oil leakage down the shaft onto the belt and blade of this electric start, self-propelled Snapper. The blade hits the underside of the deck on one end and is out beyond the deck's rim on its other end. With muscle, the blade will turn, but not with rope or electric start, Bob.

 
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05-06-05, 09:08 AM   #8  
Got the B&S "Single Cylinder 'L' Head Repair Manual". The engine is 4hp, model 111707, type 3048, code 88042508. If special tools are needed, and then the cost of part(s) added, and maybe machining; is a rebuilt engine a better alternative? I do think, though, the kids would want to try the project if it's at least reasonable.

 
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05-08-05, 11:36 PM   #9  
Sounds like the crank is bent. If so, you'll have to replace it, and you may have a bad block too (not repairable). Check the crank journals, they may be damaged from the bent crank.

I doubt you'll find a rebuilt engine for this. They are not economical to rebuild. The parts and labor to rebuild one would make the price as much as a new one. (or more).


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05-09-05, 03:24 AM   #10  
There is no replacement engine or a shortblock for this engine, you would have to repair with individual parts. The crankshaft alone is $85, Briggs part number 492096.

 
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05-09-05, 11:35 AM   #11  
Thanks cheese and puey61. Alternative would be a '76 push Craftsman that had a fussy/hunting carb and went to bed in '88 when we bought this Snapper. Is there a bring-back-to-life chance here? Hope, Bob

 
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05-09-05, 01:22 PM   #12  
Almost every neighborhood has a guy that sells old mowers that he fixed up. The guy up the road from where I work sells running push and self propelled mowers for around $25-30. He worked at a Deere dealer many years ago and just does this now to make a little pocket money. I'd probably go that route before I spent too much time and energy trying to get an engine running that has sat since the 1980s, but then again, you might get lucky.

 
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05-09-05, 03:22 PM   #13  
Hi, bontai Joe. I will look for such. In the meantime, The '76-'77 is a Lauson-Tecumseh 148cc engine 143.284152 w/ a LAV 35 carb, #632053. The cord pulls smoothly; maybe I'll get lucky. Hope to try it tomorrow. Thanks, Bob.

 
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05-10-05, 04:23 AM   #14  
A carburetor recon will likely be in order.

 
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05-11-05, 12:48 AM   #15  
Yep, if I was a betting man, I'd go "all in" on that.


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05-11-05, 09:31 AM   #16  
Oh, the obvious ,if I knew then, what I know...So I put my hands on the '76-'77 Craftsman to remove the carb and find the intake pipe to engine is not tight. It went to sleep in '88 because of a fussy carb, hunting and cutting out under load. The mower shop had checked it out, tuned it up and missed this. So it went to sleep.

Today I bought a gasket for the intake pipe, another for the carb body, needle and seat w/ clip; however, the shop didn't have a float. I really don't have experience pulling welch plugs to clean out passages and hope I won't have too. Then the shop told me they pay $100 a gallon for their cleaner and I should know this looks like a soak- the -carb- three- times case. All I could find was Gum Out spray cleaner in an auto parts place,

My question is, how best to clean up the carb. Thanks again, Bob.

 
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05-11-05, 01:24 PM   #17  
I've read in the Advice intro to the forum, Basic carburetor Info...TIPS:
During the carb cleaning process, use canned aerosol automotive carb spray cleaner. Use it to clean the carb body, fuel ports, jets and airway passages.

The plastic extension tube, that comes with the canned cleaner, is an excellent tool to flush out sludge and debris from the jets, ports, fuel channels, airway passages, under welch plugs without removing the plug caps.

This process and procedure above usually works but not always. The intent is to avoid removal of some parts and or carb pieces which are pressed in and or may be more difficult to replace.

Anything else to spraying? Thanks, Bob.

 
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05-12-05, 01:31 AM   #18  
If it looks like a soak 3 times carb, then spray cleaner probably won't touch it. You can pick up 1 gallon cans of bath type cleaner like the shop uses at most automotive stores. Napa has a good one. Advance and autozone also carry different brands. Expect to pay around $10 for a gallon can. You might be better off replacing the carb if it's that bad...especially that finicky carb you have.


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05-18-05, 11:55 AM   #19  
Runs...Thanks all! The carb cleaned right up w/ aerorsol. It wouldn't start w/ starting fluid, but did after a few tries w/ gas in the plug hole. I put 4oz of gas in the tank and let the engine run it out.
My questions now are: 1. will any in-line filter do to correct the hole I put in the tank's gas strainer? 2. (This '77 craftsman has a three position switch for
Off-Low/Idle-High speed and the engine speed is controlled by a governor. There are only two adusting screws and they are for the Low
and HIgh speed steps on the control panel.) Since there is no low speed happening when I move the switch lever to that position, how to go ahead. Also, I don't think the engine picks up under load, but I think I got the two linkages correct. What should I be lookng for? 3. And regarding the '88 Snapper, where can I price a new engine as I've kept up the Snapper and it's only the engine that is needed. It's just so easy to repair and reliable. Or am I not realistic to go that way. Thanks to all, again, Bob.

 
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05-20-05, 12:04 AM   #20  
Sounds like the throttle shaft on the carb may be stuck. See if you can rotate it manually.

Look on Ebay for a replacement engine. There are also several online small engine stores that would sell engines that could be fitted to your snapper with some adaptation.


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05-20-05, 08:55 AM   #21  
Thanks cheese, Bob.

 
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05-22-05, 11:56 AM   #22  
Things do happen. After I added an in-line filter to the '77 Craftsman, I found I cracked the plastic gas tank fuel outlet nipple at its base and now have a leak. While I dream about JB Weld, what is a real option? Thanks again, Bob.

 
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05-23-05, 12:24 AM   #23  
There's nothing that sticks to the plastic that the tank is made of well enough to stop the leak safely or permanently. (that I know of). Replacement would be the best option. Many small engine shops should have a few used ones laying around, and a new one shouldn't be very much.


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05-26-05, 02:29 PM   #24  
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You could try welding the crack in the plastic tank, but that's a tricky beast. Aside from a suitable concentrated hot air stream, you'll need filler material that matches the tank's polymer composition exactly. Also, since it's a fuel tank, you'll need to purge the tank with an inert gas (nitrogen/helium/argon . . . whatever you have handy), before you try to melt the plastic. Otherwise, make sure your life insurance premiums are current.

I think I'd look for a replacement tank.

 
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05-26-05, 03:40 PM   #25  
Thanks cheese and porschemeister. Since Sears has no stock, I thought to find a universal tank on line. No such beast. No used tanks locally so far. Now..., if I could just buy a red plastic gallon tank from Home Depot, hang it on the mower and locate some gasoline fittings.... Regards and thanks, Bob.

 
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