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B&S Problem somwhere, some how!!!!!!!


littleworker's Avatar
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05-10-05, 05:38 PM   #1  
B&S Problem somwhere, some how!!!!!!!

I AM ABOUT TIRED OF MY MOWER!!!!! I have a 6hp Briggs and Stratton Quantum on my Murray. It is making me really mad. I have cleaned the carb., i have cleaned it some more, i took the air compressor(with small and delicate parts out) and I still cannot get the thing to even try to start. I bought a new spark plug yesterday and it still won't even start. I changed the primer bulbs and it still didn't won't to start. I had a 5.5 B&S I/C so i tookt he carb of off that mower and it still didn't help it. I did put the original carb back on it after cleaning and inspecting it and it still didn't help. What now? I took it over my friends house and he tested it for a spark, checked the fuel line, checked to see if it was priming, and everything checked out.

My flywheel is clean from what I can tell but I don't know about the magneto.

Model: 2H887
Type: 2314
Code: 99122956

I think that these are it. I might have to recheck the model though.

It starts sometimes and others it won't even try too. Please help and I can reward you with gmail invites.

 
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05-11-05, 12:25 AM   #2  
Hello littleworker!

Can you squirt a little fuel into the plug hole and get it to start?


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

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05-11-05, 04:04 AM   #3  
Posted By: cheese Hello littleworker!

Can you squirt a little fuel into the plug hole and get it to start?
I don't know, but if I have time today, I might try to do that. I know that i did pour a little down the carb and I got it to start but that was a while ago.

 
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05-11-05, 02:21 PM   #4  
Alright, I have the engine numbers!

Alright the engine numbers that I gave you were wrong and they are as follows:

Model: 12H887
TYPE: 2314-B1
CODE: 99122956

I am thinking about buying a new carb for my lawnmower or just rebuilding the one that I have already. The gasket is worn off of it and the jets look corroded.
What should I do and how hard would it be to learn to rebuild it?


Last edited by littleworker; 05-11-05 at 02:21 PM. Reason: misspelling
 
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05-11-05, 07:10 PM   #5  
Cheese, Puey, or someone else....

Okay, I just thought about it but my lawnmower really has never gave me trouble like this until I filled up at a local self-owned gas station. It is not a big chain store or anything. Could it be the gas?

And the carb, would I just be better off buying a new one or rebuilding the old one?

Thanks for any advice.

P.S. The lawnmower will run fine and then it will start lowering the rpm, it will run back to normal, and then it will lower. Sometimes it even dies. Could it be the carb or just the old worn out gaskets on the carb?

 
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05-12-05, 01:13 AM   #6  
Sounds like you need to clean and rebuild the carb at minimum, and depending on how corroded it is, you may have to replace it.


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05-12-05, 04:28 AM   #7  
Posted By: cheese Sounds like you need to clean and rebuild the carb at minimum, and depending on how corroded it is, you may have to replace it.
I might post a pic later or something of the jets and stuff. I am just afraind that I won't have aj et srewed in right and the carb won't work.

Will this solve my problems if I rebuild or buy another carb?

 
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05-13-05, 01:27 AM   #8  
"Will this solve my problems if I rebuild or buy another carb?"

No guarantees. If I were personally checking this mower out, I could answer that question. But, I'm doing this on a computer screen from miles away. I'm still not certain what the problem is. It runs? or doesn't run? I see both. It does sound like a carburetor problem, but you might look closer and see a broken bolt on the carburetor mount, or a missing Oring, or something like that. The crud in the carb is a pretty good sign that you indeed have carb trouble. I have no idea if that's the only thing wrong with your engine or not though.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

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05-13-05, 03:38 AM   #9  
In through your nose out through your mouth, littleworker. Deep easy breathes my friend. Rust and/or corrosion likely will not be able to be cleaned from the innards of the carburetor. As Cheese pointed out, it would be easy if we could see the carb to determine if your in need of a soaking or a replacement. Go to an automotive store, buy a squirt can (typically used for oil), add some gas to it, remove the air filter, with a buddy at the controls and you at the carb opening with the squirt can attempt to get the engine to run well by squirting gas in well timed and delivered squirts. If you are able to get it to run well AND you have soaked the carburetor in a quality bath cleaner (I like NAPA #6401) then it's time to replace the carburetor. If unable to run well, check the intake manifold for cracks/breaks or for looseness. Also make sure the manifold gasket is good as well as the carb mounting O-ring.

 
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05-13-05, 04:53 AM   #10  
Alright Cheese and Puey

I will check out the carb and stuff today if time and weather allows me too. I have trouble starting it sometimes and when it is running, it acts like it doesn't have gas flowing to it or something. It is like the carburetor is being choked. Thanks again and I will see wht I can do.

P.S. I probably won't be able to get the carb to prime because the gasket where the air-filter and primer bulb mounts is worn off.

 
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05-13-05, 07:00 PM   #11  
Good News!

Alright, I did the gas pouring in the spark pug hoel and it started up after two pulls. I couldn't get it to prime so I got a better idea.

I called a local small-engine shop and they had the carb overhaul kit for my carb so I went there and bought it. The guy told me to get some of the John Deere Carb and Choke cleaner and try it. I got home and put a gasket on the carb and sprayed the cleaner in the carb. I primed it 6 times and pulled the string and with a little bit of black smoke it fired up and ran fine at an idle. I shut it off after a minute or two and started it back up adn it started just fine. Well, I went and mowed the front yard and it ran fine until it ran out of gas. I tried to start it back up with gas in the tank and it just wasn't going to happen. I got the kit adn the carb and I am now overhauling it. It is soaking in MEAN GREEN and it is bubbling where all of the dirt and grime is going out. I am going to put ti back together soon and fire it up tommorrow to see if I can get this bad boy to run. THe magneto was a little dirty but the spark was fine.

I will let you know how it goes.


Well, I have the carb re-assembled. I was just wondering, if you don't have a torque wrench then how tight should you get the screw on the bowl. I have the holes just a little past the indention when the screw goes in. Should I have the holes lined up with that indention?

Thanks and I will fire her up tommorrow.


Last edited by littleworker; 05-13-05 at 07:31 PM. Reason: Updating
 
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05-14-05, 03:07 AM   #12  
The bowl screw should be tightened snug. Nothing spectacular, just tighten it easy.


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05-14-05, 05:22 AM   #13  
Posted By: cheese The bowl screw should be tightened snug. Nothing spectacular, just tighten it easy.
So just tighten it enough to where it will stay on there and there will be no gas leaking. The holes in the screw doesn't need to be at a certain place.

 
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05-14-05, 07:56 AM   #14  
Update!!!!

This isn't working well at all. The lawnmower won't even try to fire, I think that the spark plug is bad on it. I have pulled the bowl off and gas is running fine. I think that I need to pull the carb off because when I did pull the bowl off, there was dirt everywhere in the gas. I have even installed a premium inline-fuel filter and it isn't catching all of the dirt. Should I take it out, re-clean it, and get some fresh gas somewhere and put some of the Briggs and Stratton fuel-stablizer in it? Also, I tried squirting gas in the spark plug hole and it didn't even try to fire then.

I pulled the air-filter off and watched the carb when I primed it and it primed fine. I think it needs new adn fresh gas and a new plug.

Please let me know if there is something else that I should do before I bug my sister to take me to get this stuff. Thanks.

 
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05-14-05, 04:45 PM   #15  
Well, the carb and spark plug is fine.

Alright, I have yet another problem. I bought a new spark plug, got fresh gas with briggs and stratton fuel-stablizer plus in it and I re-cleaned the carb. The thing still WON'T FIRE and I am just getting more and more frustrated. I got my mom to help me check for a spark and it is not even making nothing close to a spark. I pulled the magneto off and it is covered in a thin layer of rust. I am going to take the dremel wire brush to it and where it gets the spark on the flywheel I am going to get the rust of off it too. Should that solve my spark problem? Thanks for any help, I really do appreciate it.

 
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05-14-05, 06:26 PM   #16  
Littleworker,

I do feel your frustration. First thing... calm yourself down a bit. I promise you will find all problems and fix them one at a time. First off... If you have cleaned and rebuilt your carb and again passed the same bad gas (dirty gas from the tank) through it again (you found dirt in the carb bowel) it has sure cloged it up again. You may need to disasemble your carb and clean again.

Next, make sure your new plug has the correct gap. About .030 is about right. If you still have no fire, replace with the older plug and check again. Cleaning the rust from the coil face will not help much. You need a good connection from the coil to the engine block. Also, you need a good spark plug wire and these connections should be cleaned very well. Also, make sure that the plug is clean and dry before performing your pull tests. If you still have no fire then a new coil maybe on the to buy list however, be sure that when you replace the coil to the face of the fly wheel that it be within .010 from the face of the flywheel. If this measurement is not close enough there will be no spark regardless of the plug you use. Hope this helps.

Sincerely,
Dave237

 
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05-14-05, 08:10 PM   #17  
Posted By: dave237 Littleworker,

I do feel your frustration. First thing... calm yourself down a bit. I promise you will find all problems and fix them one at a time. First off... If you have cleaned and rebuilt your carb and again passed the same bad gas (dirty gas from the tank) through it again (you found dirt in the carb bowel) it has sure cloged it up again. You may need to disasemble your carb and clean again.

Next, make sure your new plug has the correct gap. About .030 is about right. If you still have no fire, replace with the older plug and check again. Cleaning the rust from the coil face will not help much. You need a good connection from the coil to the engine block. Also, you need a good spark plug wire and these connections should be cleaned very well. Also, make sure that the plug is clean and dry before performing your pull tests. If you still have no fire then a new coil maybe on the to buy list however, be sure that when you replace the coil to the face of the fly wheel that it be within .010 from the face of the flywheel. If this measurement is not close enough there will be no spark regardless of the plug you use. Hope this helps.

Sincerely,
Dave237
Thanks Dave, I am glad that I did cool down when I watched heavyweights on disney channel with my niece, nephew, and mom.

Anyways, I did take off the coil and I dremeled the rust off and it is shiny now. I only used a wire brush and nothing else to damage the coil. So, I should get a gap checker and gap the plug to where it is near .030
Also, I did clean the carb out and put the fresh gas in it and the lines have fresh gas in them. I am not sure, but I don't think that the carb is getting enough gas now but I will check it tommorrow.

Since I have no more line, could I use pluming line or something as a substitute? Thanks Dave

When I test for a spark, should I put the spark plug on something metal?

 
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05-15-05, 06:03 PM   #18  
Guess what....

Well after busting my butt all weekend, trying and trying to get the lawnmower to run, I have learned one thing, it is time for a break.

Okay, I did try tog et the mower started again today and the thing still won't crank or try to fire. What's going on? Cheese, HELP!!! PLEASE!!!!!!!!!

 
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05-15-05, 10:20 PM   #19  
When you check for spark, the plug needs to be touching the metal on the engine or it won't fire. If you still get no fire, make sure the coil is set at .010" from the magnets on the flywheel. If still no spark, unplug the small black wire from the coil and recheck. If you have fire then, the mower kill switch is activated. If no fire, then the coil is bad.

Use fuel line only. It shouldn't take more than $2.00 worth.


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05-16-05, 04:21 AM   #20  
Alright, thanks again cheese.

Posted By: cheese When you check for spark, the plug needs to be touching the metal on the engine or it won't fire. If you still get no fire, make sure the coil is set at .010" from the magnets on the flywheel. If still no spark, unplug the small black wire from the coil and recheck. If you have fire then, the mower kill switch is activated. If no fire, then the coil is bad.

Use fuel line only. It shouldn't take more than $2.00 worth.
For anyone to answer, can i use a spark plug gap tester to check the gap on the magneto. My friend said that if I fold a piece of paper 3 times and put it between the magneto and flywheel that it should be real close to the gap. Thanks again and if i can i will get some fuel-line and a gap checker today.

 
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05-16-05, 12:54 PM   #21  
littleworker,

You need to use a set of feeler gauges to set your coil to the flywheel. A spark plug gauge will not work due to the radius of the flywheel. Tripled paper, depending upon it's thickness will give you a rough opening that should put you in the ball park. Just make sure that the coil is not touching the flywheel and is within .010 to .015 range from the flywheel face.

Dave

 
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05-16-05, 06:49 PM   #22  
Alright, I am in business

Posted By: dave237 littleworker,

You need to use a set of feeler gauges to set your coil to the flywheel. A spark plug gauge will not work due to the radius of the flywheel. Tripled paper, depending upon it's thickness will give you a rough opening that should put you in the ball park. Just make sure that the coil is not touching the flywheel and is within .010 to .015 range from the flywheel face.

Dave
Well first of all, after I got my spark plug gapper, I figured out the flywheel is probably at 0.030. I know that I have to fix that for sure. My gap on my NGK spark-plug was at .020-.017 or something. I gapped it to .030 like you all reccomended and the small-engine repair book that I bought did. Yes, I bought a small-engine repair book for briggs and stratton engines and I have learned so much already. I will probably put the spark-plug back in or just gap the new one that I bought, I will adjust my flywheel, and put the new fuel-line in and check for proper gas flow. I will let you know how it goes.

P.S. I will also check my stop wire.

 
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05-17-05, 07:11 PM   #23  
Whoooooooo!!!!! Horaayyyy!!!!! What Now!!!!!!

I GOT IT FIXED ALL BY MYSELF"JUST KIDDING". Well, I want to say thanks to all that offered help to me. As a reward, I have gmail invites if you want them. I did get it started after I gapped the magneto, cleaned off the stop wire, and gapped the spark plug. Actually, it fired on the 1st pull. I did get the yard mowed too.

Thanks again.

One side note, I did pull the valve cover off and removed 95% of the carbon deposits and as I was taking the cover off, the one of the mounting bolts broke into the motor. Is there anyway that I can fix that? My friend tightened them down and he ain't no little guy like me, he got them tight. The only thing is the factory stripped the bolt out and that is why it broke. Is it safe to run without it? All of the other bolts are fine and tight. Any suggestions besides a new motor are appreciated.

After doing that, the lawnmower is acting the same way that it did, I think the stop wire is messing up again because when I wiggled it, the engine would crank, and then after it ran it did not want to start again. I did put a new gas cap on because I thought that my old one might need replacement.

Thanks again.

P.S.
Let me know if you want an invite my friendly helpers.

 
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05-18-05, 12:44 AM   #24  
Glad you got it! I guess if the valve cover isn't leaking, then let it ride. Otherwise, you'll probably have to try to drill the bolt out and tap the hole. Not an easy job on an aluminum engine.


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05-18-05, 04:13 AM   #25  
Posted By: cheese Glad you got it! I guess if the valve cover isn't leaking, then let it ride. Otherwise, you'll probably have to try to drill the bolt out and tap the hole. Not an easy job on an aluminum engine.
Thanks again cheese and everyone else. It ran but it didn't seem to be getting enough gas or something. I will fix it and mow this afternoon and let you know how it goes.

 
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05-18-05, 04:51 PM   #26  
Posted By: littleworker Thanks again cheese and everyone else. It ran but it didn't seem to be getting enough gas or something. I will fix it and mow this afternoon and let you know how it goes.
Alright, it is settled, I have the lawnmower running fine. I pulled the cover off and cleaned the stop-wire hole. I put the cover back on, primed it, and it fired after on pull. I will put a new fuel-line on it and change the oil and she should be ready to roar.

I did mow for about 2.5 hours and the lawnmower done fine so I guess the bolt is fine.

 
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